kneelingatlas

In that case just put a dot on your Limited, then you'll get the benefit of major scoring.

If you're not going to reload I suggest mounting a red dot on a 9mm Limited, you'll save ~$600, it will shoot just as flat as the Gold Team, plus if you decide to start reloading you can do a custom build which will perform better than a GT, like this:

N350 should work for 9 major, but HS7 might be too slow although it might work with a 124.

Andrew, I have always operated under the assumption "burn rate" correlates the charge weight required to achieve a given velocity, i.e.: a larger charge of a slower powder results in the same velocity as a smaller charge of a faster powder. I don't know how Hodgdon calculates "burn rate" nor how closely my concept of burn rate correlates with theirs, but previous editions of their chart agreed with my real world data perfectly. Unfortunately their latest revision places HS6 on the faster side of the other popular 9 major powders which doesn't jive with my concept of burn rate nor my data. In my mind I group 9 major powders as fast, medium and slow: Fast (7ish grains for major with a 115): CFE Pistol Autocomp Silhouette Medium (8ish grains for major with a 115): HS6 Longshot Slow (9ish grains for major with a 115): SP2 3N38 These are just powders I've tested, but don't include: 3N37, N350, AA#5, AA#7, True Blue, etc.

Silhouette is pretty good, I would put it on par with Autocomp or CFE Pistol; HS6 might be a little dirtier, but I think it performs better than those faster powders. From your charge weight I assume you're shooting 124s, I strongly suggest trying 115s before changing powders. In my opinion there's no better load for 9 major than 9.3gr of 3N38 under a 115gr Montana Gold JHP.

+1

Both Tanfo frames are basically the same as the SP01 frame the major difference being that the checkering is raised from rather than cut into the frame, giving you an extra 1/16" or so front and back. The TS is significantly wider than both.

The difference between large frame and small frame pistols is the same as long action vs short action rifles; it has more to do with the cartridges it's designed for than the physical dimensions. The one with the black grips is small framed the one with the wood grips is large framed; the outside dimentions are largely identical although the small frame has a slightly deeper undercut of the beaver tail. Large frame pistols are designed to fire, 45/10/38, but can also shoot 40/9/22, small frame pistols are designed to shoot 40/9/22.

It's more or less random which frame is imported to the US, I've seen both large and small frame Stock IIs and Stock IIIs.

From what I've seen of the prosthetics available today I don't see any competitive advantage, if that changes I guess we'll have to cross that bridge then. I imagine you'd have to be a real piece of work to cry foul if an amputee beats you in a match.

If I were you I would put the lid back on, report the lot number to Winchester, and load 9 with the other two powders.

I think there's something really wrong with your can of WAC, I recently chronoed 7.7gr of WAC under 115gr MG JHP using Winchester SPP and got a pretty consistent 171pf in my full sized 2011 with minimal flattening of the primers. Could it be contaminated? How old is it?

Is that a pierced primer?!? Which brand/type? As a side note: I recommend 3N37 and HS6 for 9 major over WAC.

Yes, thank you

Listen to this man! N105 was my favorite powder for 38 super, but lighter bullets will do more for flatness. 112gr is the lightest bullet allowed for major in USPSA, but to prove the point to yourself try some 95/100gr bullets over 11gr of 3N38. The load in this video was 9.1gr of SP2 (almost identical to 3N38) under a 124gr bullet: https://youtu.be/hv9cvoPByns The load in this video was 10.0gr of SP2 under a 115gr bullet (same gun after hard chrome): https://youtu.be/asRv1hXSjjI The load in this video was 11.0gr of SP2 under a 100gr bullet: https://youtu.be/v07mG4WpVr4 If you do decide you want to drill holes here's what I suggest: Elongate the last slot, then drill three 5/32" holes angled rearward at ten degrees, you can always ream them out to 3/16" later.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=233909 Deals like this go fast, but if you're patient, you can get one

Bummer, I guess it's time to get creative

How are your mags blocked now? I assumed it would be with rivets like I've seen in CA.

The 9/40 on the base pad just means the base pad can be used for 9 or 40, your picture shows two 9mm tubes, the 40 mags don't have ribs. The 10 round 40 mag looks like this: Full cap looks like this: Running .357 Sig in a .40 mag should solve all your problems.

I would drill out the rivets, add the base pad, then attach a block to the stop plate of the base pad to limit capacity. Then you could disable the mag as intended and block the capacity to 15

Which mags are you using? I could never get STI mags to run 100% without spacers, and with spacers 1.160" is about as long as you can go. Depending on the bullet profile the barrel throat can also be a limiting factor. I have two 2011s which can't take 115gr MG JHP longer than 1.135".

No, the ten round tube is too short to be used with that extension.

You're too quick Nik!

Nonsense. There's nothing in 22.2 that states it applies to wheel guns only; rather there is language specifically stating that it does NOT apply to revolvers. I read 22.2, you're right Nik

$350 for an SP01 top end complete