kneelingatlas

That's an awesome cake! My wife threw a surprise party for my 30th and made this cake:

5.1"

"BARREL LENGTH: On shoulder arms and most handguns the distance between the muzzle of the barrel and the face of the breech block or bolt. On revolvers, it is the overall length of the barrel only, including the portion within the frame." http://www.saami.org/glossary/display.cfm?letter=b Even if you use your dowel method you won't get 5.4", but don't take my word for it... This is a pet peeve of mine, I've been in contact with CZ USA, they acknowledged the mistake, promised to fix it for 2014, but apparently didn't. I love CZs, but it really bothers me.

I look forward to your review, I have a few extra slides and I love to tinker

Bummer...

The Gold Team leaves much to be desired, if you want a Tanfo Open you have to make it yourself

Next thing you know you'll try one of my Tanfo Open guns and that GM will be up for sale!

Any pouches made for small frame Glocks work perfectly. I use these:

That's pretty awesome at 20yards! Is that freestyle or bench rest?

You realize that terrible stink in the car is dog crap on your shoe

I've actually thought of cutting the frame that exact same way. Your TS is a 9mm right? If so then you should be OK cutting the spring tunnel since you have that plastic plug. I guy who cut his .40 slide like that ended up buying my slide to replace it...

I assume you're asking about the hammer? It's smooth on the back and looks like this from the side:

Does the serial number start with AE? I think there were bare frames imported in the early '90s, but my two 1992 frames had a different bolt pattern (3 holes 25mm on center). Weird that its DA too, I bought one with that same short DA trigger too.

Not necessary, the current short reset trigger offerings can help a lot. Here's my Shadow with SRTS installed:

Yes, you need the short rest disconnector from CZC or CGW

Get it! If you don't like it I'll buy it just for parts

It decreases the lock time; I don't think it matters much but all the cool guys do it In all honesty, my Jericho with an 11.5# hammer spring does feel like it takes all day to fall and the bobbed hammer on my CZ pushed by a 20# hammer spring snaps like a whip.

I've shared some notes with Eli in the CZ forum but I figured this would be a good place for it: I've been playing with low mass hammers since I got the new CZ race hammer on my TS I took a stock DA/SA hammer (because I have a few kicking around), recut the hooks, cut off the spur and milled out the back with my drill press (call it a rough draft...) Apparently there's a point where the hammer gets light enough to induce light strikes because this setup has a stock hammer spring (~18#) and I had ignition trouble when I tried it out. I also just picked up this IFG limited (SN 14!) which had already been worked over by a previous owner: some came up with an interesting way of removing weight from the stock heart shaped hammer It's a little thin on one side so it's already cracked in one place, but it should be OK for a while; I have let to shoot it but I'll be sure to report back...

The uppers I've sold have gone for roughly half the price of the pistol for what it's worth.

There's much more to be considered before you start chopping up your prized pistol. Cha-lee started a great thread on the topic here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=183028&page=1When a pistol cycles there are linear forced, rotational forces, many frictional surfaces and multiple springs at play. I, like so many others, only considered what would look really bad ass and was not very happy with the way it changed the characteristics of the recoil impulse. Fortunately different shooters have different preferences and I found someone who really likes it.

How much do the raffle tickets cost?!?

Don't forget the bottom of the sear cage where the top of the disco rubs. You may also want to try the CGW RP TRS and a CZ sear spring while you're at it.