walnutty

Affirmative.

Hello Folks, I have a CZ TS in 40 that works flawlessly with my previous 180 LFP's. Recently reloaded some of these 155 gr RN SWC's. I got a lot of FTF's when loaded with the front of the bullet shoulder slightly above the case rim. (would do this several times per mag; mag holds 17 rounds) Lengthened COAL to 1.135". Much improved, but still got around 1-2 FTF's per mag. Lengthened to again to 1.140-1.142". Mid mag FTF's disappeared, but first round on full 17-round mag will always FTF when slingshotted or using slide stop. Feeding was very smooth. No first round FTF's when loading mag to 15 rounds. Mags were never loaded during storage so spring tension should be good. Is the idea here to load as long as possible? The bullet shoulder will begin to touch the barrel lead when loading to 1.145". Slightly over that the bullet shoulder will begin to stick to the lands. I guess I can try 1.145-1.147"? Is the 155 gr RNSWC just more temperamental to feeding issues? Thanks so much for your input!

Thanks zzt for your input. I really appreciate it.

Hello Guys, I have a bull barreled 1911 that has the reverse plug with the shoulder and the slide already cut for a barrel bushing. I would like to convert this pistol to a standard barrel/bushing set-up. I have read a few posts of people having successfully done this. My question is--can this new set-up leave the rear of the slide plug tunnel more prone to peening/cracking being that the area is thinner and does not have the reverse plug shoulder to support the hole? I have purchased an EGW reverse plug for a bushing gun. Unfortunately the OD of the plug shoulder is still slightly undersized compared to the reverse plug that came with the gun. The factory reverse plug for the bull barrel fit more snugly and offered more support to the plug tunnel. The EGW reverse plug has enough shoulder diameter to hold the spring but it is a loose fit (diameter wise) to offer any kind of support to the shoulder plug tunnel. I know many forum members here shoot their guns a lot so I am curious what your experience has been. Thank you in advance. BTW, the pistol is an SA TRP Operator.

Yeah, it's better to wait. Both of my TS's shoot a little high with my loads.

The standard wide paddle safety is cast. I like to purchase these a couple at a time from Midway. That case if one of them is out of spec, I can keep one and send the other back.

I actually installed a WC wide paddle safety and it works quite well. I have installed this same safety on a few of my 1911's, and I found these quite easy to fit. You can also remove the sharp edges on the paddle to make it even more comfortable. WC has another one with narrow paddle. The workmanship on these is impeccable; however, they come with an oversized pin and it may not fit in your frame hole unless you turn down the pin diameter.

I owned one briefly. Mine came with one grip screw cross-threaded from the factory. From my research, it appears this cross-threaded phenomenon is more common among the aluminium framed CZ's. The rubber grips usually has holes that are not properly aligned with the grip screw hole in the frame. Also the hole in the rubber grip is undersized and tends to grip the screw as it is inserted, making it difficult to feel when you are engaging the threads. Although I really like the feel of the P-01, I've decided to stay away from it again because of the above reason. Maybe the P-07 or steel CZ 75 compact would be another possibility.

IMO, I wouldn't worry about it.

That peen mark on the lower right hole is common on production 1911's. It's caused by the thumb safety. A very good smith can modify a thumb safety by removing that sharp corner, however most small-time smiths probably don't even bother.

I read somewhere awhile back that is is to enhance feeding of hollowpoints.

Teflon tape? It's always worked for me. You still need to check the connection after your shooting sessions though.

At the minimal, you need the plunger tube staking tool. They sell this at Midway (strobel) or Brownells (gunrunners). Extras: a drill bit to prevent to PT from collapsing; dremel ball cutter to put a small bevel in the hole inside the frame. There are several good resources on the web. One of them is located at Modern Service Weapons website. They have good pics also.

I have been tinkering with 1911's for over 20 years. I could say now that I'm able to service my own 1911's for my intended use. However, I just started shooting cz's. Got a couple of TS' last year and they only needed chamber reaming, so that was easy. Just got an SP-01, and realized I'm quite tired of tinkering. Don't really have the energy now to even learn a new platform. Got my parts from CGW, and I'm in no hurry to do anything. Maybe in a few months. I plan on changing only the most necessary parts to get down to a sub-4# (single-action) trigger pull, then I'll consider this shootable for myself.

It's under his facebook -- Gerard G. I saw his videos and they are very helpful.