HOGRIDER
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Posts posted by HOGRIDER
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48 minutes ago, echotango said:
The ISMI spring is quite a bit shorter than the OEM spring and also shorter than the Wolff. Are you sure it is an ISMI? I have tried ISMI(12.5), Wolff(12, 13, 13V), Sig(12,14) and Sprinco(12,13) springs. I have all here except Sprinco.
Not the ISMI springs I purchased.......as you can see the length of a new spring is just under 8.5". My new Sig 12# spring that came with the pistol is just under 8". Also have a couple of ISMI 13# and they are right about the same length........
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Robert if readily available to discuss your concerns/questions about his products accomplishing what you need!
972-342-2717
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12 minutes ago, Cuz said:
Has anyone tried the new FW shell plate? They stopped making them for a while, so I assume this is a “new and improved” version?
I don’t know why, but I feel like I “need” one of these. I wonder if they will offer a Black Friday sale???
Haven't come across anyone using these new ones; but a lot of discussion on FB! I sure have been wanting one; but since my RL1100 is still in manual operation, I decided to grab a V2 Dillon plate. But if I see a deal during Black Friday, I'll probably grab one for future use!
They are an awesome looking plate that appears well engineered/made. Some details in a reply after my product inquiry:
QuoteOur plates have improved geometry for case insertion/extraction. Our plates are made from a really tough tool steel alloy and heat treated by a very reputable heat treater. Our plates have an index ball groove on the back to help keep the plate steady during index. Our plates have debris extraction grooves on the back to help pull crap out from under the plate. We also include an indexing pawl with each plate; and if the new station tabs we are testing out work, we will include a set of those with each #3 and #5 plate, as well as supply a set to people who have already purchases a plate from us.
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5 minutes ago, Cuz said:
I did notice the retainer pin but I don’t like it. I prefer the Dawson Precision method of melting the ends in place with a lighter. It would suck to lose that piece. I packaged up the front sight and rear sight/mounting plate and stuck them safely away.
My sentiments exactly! While looking for a mini-zip lock to put the front sight in, I happen to come back to the bench and there was the very small pin that had fallen out and released the FO rod! And my first thought was why not retain the FO rod with a lighter like Dawson does? Way over-engineered IMO...........
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2 hours ago, Cuz said:
I always remove all the sights from any range/competition pistol once I mount a red dot.
Ha! Thought I was the only one to do that!
As a fairly new RDS user that LOVES the platform, I have found the front sight is a bit of a distraction; especially on range/fun guns! Guess I realized this after getting the P320 MAX...........
BTW: Did you notice the pin/retainer for the FO rod on that front sight? That was a first for me! Especially on an entry level pistol!
SMH!
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While everyone has posted some great info, I agree with @ddc and @Sigarmsp226 in that your CZ75 more than likely has a much tighter chamber than your other pistols; and it may require a much shorter OAL than your comfortable with when using the Eggleston bullets.
Before writing off that there's something wrong with your dies, I would follow Wobbly's excellent tutorial on checking to see what OAL the CZ75 prefers, and works with using those particular bullets! Not out of the question to see certain bullets require OALs near 1.00" in order to work in some CZs.
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=103620.0
Also a great article on understanding Taper Crimp!
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=78873.0
HTHs
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8 hours ago, 21 shooter said:
I have broken pins on Lee decap dies due to rocks, case-in-a-case, and the odd stainless steel pins. I’ve seen Redding, FW, and now Dillon have decap dies. First I had seen of the Dillon. Anyone with experience/opinions your two cents worth would be appreciated. I’m using an RL1050 and will start on a 650 soon.
and my search ability is terrible as I got pages of a lot of things but not specifically what I typed in. My search-foo is not strong, and I would appreciate any suggestions to help that.
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4 minutes ago, Cuz said:
Cool. I just picked up a P322 today. I pulled a 407K off one of my other pistols and mounted it. I hope to get it to the range this week.
Cuz:
You probably know this; but I just remounted my 407K on the P322 for the third time. This time was due to sending it back to Sig, and they wanted ANY aftermarket parts taken off before returning.
I again took time to keep forward pressure on the rear of the 407k body while looking through the rear and front iron sights in order to align the red dot directly inline with the fixed sights. This is during final torque/tightening of the mounting screws. Seems to have worked just fine and I'll hopefully confirm by checking the sights this week.
I learned during my first mounting experience there is enough wiggle room in the way the 407k mounts to the P322's slide cut-out to allow the dot to be skewed to one side or the other. Understandable with no mounting and/or recoil lugs on the mating surfaces..........
HTHs!
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44 minutes ago, fireman1776 said:
Thank you. I was having trouble finding any in stock on a google search.
I looked through my parts drawer and found one I had apparently purchased awhile back!
This spring was definitely the culprit. It was completely mangled.
new on left, old on right. Now that I replaced it, it passes the test.
The spring is tiny. I’m not really sure what the life of one is but it can’t be very high. There is no compression left in mine at all. It’s a mangled mess.
Glad you found one!
I try to keep several on hand..........they definitely don't "live long"!
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As soon as the season is over, I plan on tearing into the RL1100 for a major cleaning; and am definitely wanting to replace the shellplate. My reason is I've read that Dillon has a V2 of the OEM shellplate that is a bit thicker/beefier than the original I have. Yes, I realize the original shellplate has been working; however my OCD is kicking in and I definitely want to replace the original with either the upgraded Dillon or aftermarket.
Right now I have been seriously looking at FW Arms new release: https://fwarms.com/shop/reloading/shell-plates/5-plate-for-dillon-super-1050-1100-cp2000-by-f-w-arms-copy/
It's a very nice looking plate that appears to have a lot of built-in improvements that should enhance the operation and function. And I have plans to automate in the future; but feel a quality, well made shellplate is just a good investment.
Some highlights of FW Arms new plate:
Would like to hear from other S1050/RL1100 owners that have replaced, or considered replacing, there shellplate and reason(s) why they did/did not. Also wondering if replacing with a thicker shellplate such as Dillon or aftermarket will require major adjustments to the press along with raising all the dies and resetting to allow for the additional thickness?
Also would like to hear any recommendations on upgrading/replacing the Index Roller Bolt, Index Lever Shoulder Bolt, and Index Lever Spring! Any/all recommended updates/replacements would be appreciated!
Thanks for any comments!!
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29 minutes ago, HesedTech said:
It's not about the size of the bearings, rather it's about the upper or lower holes in the drop tube. I tend to find the upper holes work best and allows more up and down adjustment to the die preventing double drops.
@HesedTechis absolutely correct. The upper and lower holes are designed for different weight bullets and may take some readjusting for the 115g your wanting to use.
This video gives some great instruction:
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"IF" your needing striker reset springs, SigSauerParts.com has them in stock. I have purchased a lot of spare parts from them; and always receive genuine factory parts when ordered. And their service and shipping is excellent!
https://www.sigsauerparts.com/sig-sauer/sig-sauer-p320-striker-reset-spring-180
https://www.sigsauerparts.com/parts-accessories-p320-small-parts-slide-parts-striker-assembly
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7 minutes ago, fireman1776 said:
Found this video
I just checked my pistol and the striker does stay protruded. I have dry fire this gun a lot. So maybe this is why the striker is sticking out in the other test.
I’ll have to order a new spring and see if that fixes it. Gun functions fine tho with live ammo.
Excellent video!
And if you go to 3:25, there's a quick and easy test to see if your striker reset spring is compromised.
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1 hour ago, fireman1776 said:
Edit to clarify:Doing the test in the video after pulling the trigger the striker drops and is past the second ledge of the sear. But when I push in on the striker assembly there is no click and the trigger is just mush. Also if I take out the barrel the firing pin protruded through the breechface like in the last test in the video.Originally I did it with GG kit with armory craft trigger and it failed. So I tried again with the GG trigger and kit and it still failed.
Not sure what else to try?
First I would try removing the striker assembly and give ALL the springs a thorough look see for fit/function. If that is all good, I'd then, if you haven't already, put the pistol back to factory condition with all stock parts back in the FCU. Of course checking all the aftermarket parts for function as you removed them............
Looking forward to hear your results!
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4 hours ago, bimmer1980 said:
My striker reset spring is broken all the time. (the tiny small one in the striker) I´m pretty sure that happens to all p320´s pretty often.
Mine doesn´t fire by itself.
IMO, Your striker reset spring SHOULD NOT be broken all the time! Something definitely wrong!
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10 hours ago, fireman1776 said:
I just did this test with my p320 w/ grayguns trigger kit and it failed. Wow.
IMO, Edmond is one of those "hidden gems" that understands how the P320's FCU works; and more importantly, he does an excellent job in presenting the information in his videos in a way that's very easy to understand!
BTW: what was causing your failure with the GG kit?
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37 minutes ago, DirtyB said:
Trying to work up a load for my Shadow 2.
Using BB 147 flat points.
I have fit the bullet into a fired case, seated the case in the chamber and am getting 1.129-1.142 on the OAL using 20 rounds.
A seated/crimped cartridge in the chamber will not rotate unless I'm around 1.104-1.108 OAL, anything above is rubbing when I try to spin the casing.
Do these numbers seem about correct? I know the CZs sport shorter chambers which require shorter OALs.
Planning on starting with 3.3 grain of N320. Just seeing if anyone wants to take a look at my numbers before I go loading a couple hundred to test.
TIA. Not used to this, usually I just use generic book numbers and send it with my X5 Legion(roast me). Little different for the CZ.
After doing the OAL tests on my S2 Orange using your same procedure and the BB 147FP, I had several test rounds that could go out to 1.135"-1.138" easily. My practice is to reduce the average by the recommended 0.015". So I ended up with 1.120" in MY BARREL and it worked flawlessly. Using 124/125g bullets in the same barrel, required me to reduce the OALs down to around 1.108" since those bullets have a different profile/ogive.
I think your on the right track; but remember each barrel may end up liking a minor bit of difference in powder weight. Before loading up several hundred, try loading 30-40 rounds for testing in 10 round tests off a bench, RR, etc. I would also load up a few at 3.2g and some at 3.4g just for testing purposes. And make sure you run them across a chrono for solid feedback.
Good luck!
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58 minutes ago, echotango said:
I have used them. Also sprinco. Any 1911 spring works.
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43 minutes ago, Boomstick303 said:
Curious to what weight you landed on? The link indicates full size. Does that mean its for the 4.7" barrel? Are you using this on the 5" guns?
Currently running ~135-136PF competition load, and using the 12# full (OEM) length spring. This is in the MAX which is a 5".
Dealing with the medical setback, I'm slowly working my way back and still need to final chrono the load and do some testing/recording for sight return/tracking. May have to go up or down a bit for perfection; but so far the 12# is functioning fine.
The Tech at ISMI was extremely helpful with what was actually available as they didn't put a lot of time in on the website shopping.
I understand that MANY shooters are using the 1911 length springs with great success; but when I started having some unusual FTEs with the 1911 springs, I went back to the factory length (ISMI) springs that Robert also recommended. Working/functioning flawlessly so far.
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1 minute ago, echotango said:
ISMI sells their 1911 spring for the p320. Same part number.
Yea, I see that.
However, the one's I received after talking with the tech, were the longer OEM type (length) springs. And I was able to purchase a different weight than what is shown on the website.........
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2 hours ago, boudreux said:
Can somebody lead me to a place to get some x5 legion recoil springs? I found them on springer precision but they want $7.50 to ship them, just seeing if anybody else has other options. Thanks
After using 1911 type springs for a while, TSA recommended I use the OEM length springs for best slide performance. So I called ISMI and ordered a few in different weights. They have performed flawlessly!
https://www.ismi-gunsprings.com/?product=p320-full-size-x5-recoil-springs
Tech was very helpful over the phone!
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19 minutes ago, Gunsbygiz said:
Those are great groups at 20 yards
Thanks!
The Ransom Rest is the contributing factor in these tests!
X5 Recoil Springs
in Sig
Posted
Same packaging? I ordered these direct from ISMI…….
Hmmmmm…….