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Posts posted by HOGRIDER
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I would think so...........however a call to Dillon may be needed to confirm.
If the dimensions are identical, I would definitely prefer the black version for longevity!
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3 hours ago, Chapo said:
Dillon sells their powder measures separately to differentiate between 750 and 1100. Are there any differences between these two powder measures?
IIRC, the only difference in the RL1100 PM is it comes with the black, heat treated powder die.......
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11 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:
The TSA drop in trigger is far beyond any expectation I have for any striker fired trigger. Super shot take up. Fairly crisp break with zero creep. GG triggers are great but I find the comparison in relation to creep is not even a contest when comparing to the TSA drop in trigger. The reset is pretty short as well. While the trigger pull weight on the gage is more than my GG triggers when physically pulling the trigger it somehow does not feel heavier than the GG trigger.
Even though TSA did my Competition Level Action Job, which includes the same parts, I agree with @Boomstick303100% on his assessment!
Had also tested the AC and GG packages prior to the TSA package.
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2 hours ago, RangerTrace said:
I'm considering a change to 124 grain projectiles when I run out of 147s. I think I'm sitting at 5k in the garage. Bruce Gray thinks I might squeeze a little bit more accuracy out of the P320 with the 124s.
Trace:
I too switched to the 124g JHPs after talking extensively with Luke at KKM; and having TSA install a KKM 1:16 match barrel. So far, the right powder/bullet combo is providing pretty impressive results.
I think you'll like the switch..........
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10 minutes ago, RangerTrace said:
Well, I just case gauged some match ammo and I'm down to the very bottom of my large ammo can. Still have two of the small ones full and about 1500 practice rounds left.
So, it's time to dust off the 1050 and fill up some ammo cans. I picked up 2k Federal Small Pistol primers from Brownells a while back. Are they any good or should I just break into my small stash of CCI SPP?
Been using Federal Match SPPs for MANY years, and have never had an issue in ANY of my pistols! And your load of 3.5 N320 pushing a 147g JHP is a tack driver!
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3 minutes ago, jubi351 said:
I believe the item number is 13951. If you are on Discord there is a Dillon rep that can help verify and order the part.
@jubi351you are correct! For the small powder bar it is #13951. Luckily I dug through some boxes and found one!
Thanks for your help!
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6 hours ago, Orion1 said:
I loaded my first 115gr 9mm rounds with WSF. I've read a lot of comments on other forums where shooters seemed to generally prefer Vihtavuori N350 over WSF. Is there a general explanation for this? Is Vihtavuori powders cleaner or more accurate (on average), easier to load, etc than WSF? I see the price for this powder is also higher than WSF per pound. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
I've never used WSF, so I can't comment on how well it loads or the performance it produces. However, I have used VV for MANY years and have found the recommended powders for my 9mm loads to always produce EXCELLENT results being loaded through the Dillon XL650s and the RL1100. It has also been recommend to me by very experienced loaders and manufacturers in the business to use VV N320, N330, or N340 for anything from 115g to 147g and above shooting standard velocities. If you download the VV reloading data, you can see info for several powders depending on the velocity you desire.
IMO, and after using it a while instead of N320, the N330 is an awesome powder that provides excellent results and will work with about any bullet weight you can use.
HTHs
PS: Some good info on VV powders...............
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I agree with @GrumpyOne. Way too much crimp! I would toss them in the "lesson learned" bin and try again with unused bullets!
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2 minutes ago, Speedwagon said:
I got an email from Midway today, they're in stock. I ordered the whole kit and kabodal. Kinda bothered me that you order $800 worth of merchandise and still have to pay shipping but I wanted to get one while they're still in stock since I've been waiting so long. This is the Bluetooth model.
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FWIW:
From another S1050/RL1100 user group discussing brass receiving crooked/upside down/no primers during loading:
Quotedo you know why that’s happening? I had that issue because primers were getting stuck in the blue plastic tip but I switched to the primer tube from my 650 as it had a brass tip and it works perfectly
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10 minutes ago, Cuz said:
I guess that pretty much settles it. Just waiting for the Black Friday sale so I can place the order. -
1 hour ago, Cuz said:
Just wondering if anyone has tried the Armory Craft adjustable trigger on their P322. I put another 100 or so rounds through mine and they are running great. Then I saw this trigger and now I “need” one. If they have a Black Friday sale, I’m pretty sure I’ll end up getting one to try. Mostly just because it comes in red…
Definitely recommend the AC trigger for the P322! And the red looks GREAT!
HTHs!
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Finally opened the box with the new Dillon RL1100 shell plate (v2?). Very easy to see the updates.
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Got the MANUAL!
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1 hour ago, APL-G35 said:
Anyone using the Arredondo powder bar for their 650? I was thinking about grabbing one for loading AA7 for 9 major because it supposedly keeps the powder drop more consistent. Anyone have any experience?
Used the micrometer adjustable powder bar with a Dillon bar for a LONG time in my XL650s! Also bought one for the RL1100.
https://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1231
A definite recommendation for the Dillon Powder Measure!
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3 hours ago, chgofirefighter said:
Interesting that I was about to inquire about a recipe for 125gr TC Blue Bullets using VV N320.. So the consensus is 3.9gr of powder for N320? I'm using a 4 inch barrel, Shadow Systems XR920 and Glock 45, also a Canik Rival~
Thanks~
This was the info I was sharing with you on FB. All I have at the moment with the Blue 125s......
HTHs
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1 minute ago, Orion1 said:
I am measuring the crimp on on the head of the case, closest to the bullet. When I crimp it more and the bottle resembles a coke bottle is this an issue?
The "coke bottle" effect has been discussed many times............
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54 minutes ago, ddc said:
Taylor Tactical springs from BSPS. Sold as "1911/2011/P320 recoil springs".
I don't know about torque. Cinched them down about as tight as I was comfortable. JB Weld Blue Perma-Lock.
I've since moved to 14#. We will see.
As @echotangohas indicated Sig CS has been very responsive.
Love the sight.
Thanks!
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5 minutes ago, echotango said:
They said it happens. Their customer service is the best.
It happened on my 2 Legions and 3 Max's.
Guess it's just a matter of time on my MAX......
Thanks for your feedback!
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1 hour ago, echotango said:
Factory Sig 12#, ISMI X5 12#(same length as factory), Sprinco 12#(longer than most 1911). All long springs.
SMH...........
@ddc @echotango Has Sig CS offered any insight into what might be going on?
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From the article I posted above. This has ALWAYS worked for any nominal sized bullet combination I have loaded in 9mm!
QuoteTherefore the above observations spawn several thoughts:
• First, that a good and truly useful taper crimp diameter for any auto cartridge is going to be 0.002-0.003" less than the case mouth dimensions shown in the SAAMI drawings. That makes the useful taper crimp dimension for 9x19 Luger equal 0.380 minus 0.003, or in the range 0.376-0.379", with most people using 0.377-0.378". -
56 minutes ago, echotango said:
Never checked the torque specs. Ran them on my open guns and CO guns. Hand tight with a drop of blue loctite.
I have 5 of them. Only time I've ever had an issue with the glass was on my co guns when running a 12#. Friend bought a max and ran the 12# and cracked it within 500 rnds. Other buddy running a 14, no issues.
Same with my wife's max. 12, crack. 13, good to go. Not scientific, but......
Wow! Definitely an unusual situation.........
We're all these rc springs you refer to the 6"/1911 lengths? Or the full length Sig spec?
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41 minutes ago, HesedTech said:
Here’s the process:
- Clean and resize.
- Make dummy rounds without primer or powder to check final OAL.
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Adjust OAL until plunk test passes.
From all the descriptions you have two issues, OAL and removal of crimp.
Don’t think crimp based on diameter but rather on removal of the crimp.
OAL is never determined by what is read from a book. It is solely based on the gun chamber and chosen bullet.
Taper crimp dies work best on most cartridges, I personally like the Dillon taper crimp for 9mm.
39 minutes ago, HesedTech said:Fix the crimp and OAL first then look at the base. 9mm is a tapered, not a straight cartridge.
Have to agree with @HesedTechon this one. If your pic is what your finished rounds look like, then you ARE NOT removing the bell with correct taper crimp! Also, IMO, your OAL is too long. Currently using 1.108" OAL with my 1:16 twist KKM Match barrel.
Follow this to fix your OAL. Applies to any 9mm pistol barrel:
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=103620.0
Then follow this post to fix your taper crimp:
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=78873.0
HTHs!
Powder Bar Parts
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
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Worked perfectly! Thanks for your insight!