HOGRIDER
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Posts posted by HOGRIDER
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6 minutes ago, echotango said:
Switching back to a 13#. First shot on the 12 cracked my glass. I have cracked quite a few sights with a 12#. I have so many new springs(Sig 12#, Wolff 13# var, ISMI 12#, ISMI 12.5) I am going to put them for sale. I usually buy 3 or 6 at a time, lol. Thanks for your help.
Wow!
This in CO? What PF you running?
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8 hours ago, clw42 said:
Thanks for this!
I did have another replacement tip in my stash of spare parts so I replaced it with another one and loaded 100 without a problem. This was going back to the plastic. We'll see how long it lasts. I'll snag that two pack of brass fittings though anyway, just to tinker with for possible future issues.
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4 minutes ago, ddc said:
Questions:
1. Did you use the 650 tip or the 750 tip for your 1100?
2. If there was a concern over using the Dillon 650 brass tip on a 1050/1100 is not that concern still valid when using the Photo Escape brass tip?
My understanding is the PE tips are strictly for the XL750. There's also comments that they work on the 550 and 1050 machines:
https://uniquetek.com/product/T1739
I've been using the SP end for quiet some time, and IIRC, it was a perfect fit and didn't alter the OAL of the primer magazine tube. Not familiar with the XL750; but it appears Dillon did make a different end and/or tube diameter for that machine.
I've studied the plastic tip that comes with the 1100; and have yet to figure out the reason it's preferred over a metal tip unless the plastic will actually "flex/give" if retracting a primer that's not fully seated flush in the primer slide..........
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Wonder if this could be modified or made to eject "after" Station #3?
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8 minutes ago, clw42 said:
Yeah, that's what I figured.
Any other solutions to my issue then that anyone thinks might work?
As someone that's loaded on XL650s for MANY years, and now have been using the RL1100 for just over two years, I've always been a fanatic about safety! Especially with the primer systems! And thank God, I've never had a magazine detonation.
But I was experiencing less that expected performance with the RL1100's priming system flipping and canting primers during reloading. So, at the recommendation of someone I trust, I decided to try the Photo Escape replacement "brass tips" that fit my 1100 magazine tube just fine!
https://photoescapeinc.com/products/replacement-brass-ends.html
Once I learned how and when to properly clean/maintain the 1100's primer delivery system, I have had ZERO priming issues with the brass tips or any other components as long as I keep the system clean as recommended.
HTHs!
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2 minutes ago, Bakerjd said:
They are on top like normal. But right at the very top of the threads. Never had any issues though. I'm not really convinced a micrometer is needed for the crimp die as I've never messed with it after setting it up the first time. For the seating die it's awesome though. Makes going from my 1.170 open load to my 1.130 minor load easy.
Same here. Have used the Redding Competition Pro Micrometer Taper Crimp Die for MANY years. After some discussion with an engineer at Redding, I decided to try the standard taper crimp die as I was never having to adjust the micrometer either! I'm definitely liking the "simplicity" of the standard die that has become a set it and forget it station.
Thanks for your reply!
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10 minutes ago, Bakerjd said:
Been running the full Lyman pro micro adjustable die set since day one 2 years ago on my rl1100 in 9mm. Only thing that happened is I broke 2 of the decap pins.
Did you have to use the die lock rings on the bottom of the toolhead? Or did they work in the normal, on top position?
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On 11/5/2022 at 8:35 PM, echotango said:
.
@echotangoDid Ross come through for you?
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14 hours ago, RangerTrace said:
So, USPSA is low on my priority list these days, but how often are you at a disadvantage with a stock 21 rounder?
I recently found out during a match with a stage that used 24 rounds. Used a barney mag along with my Sig 21 round mags with TTI base pads and Grams springs. (23 rounds loadable).
For those that have the necessary confidence, eliminating a reload definitely helps! And they fit the gauge with no mods...........
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2 hours ago, RangerTrace said:
Seems easy enough for Sig. They made the AXG grip module. Change the CMC machine settings and get to work!! The weight of the TXG grip module feels like enough weight with my match loads. The dot presentation before and after recoil was very consistent. The trigger was just the absolute opposite of 1911.
As a LONG TIME 1911/2011 shooter like you, I can honestly say the P320 MAX I sent to The Sig Armorer for his P-Series Action Job with Curve Trigger "feels as close to a 1911 trigger" as any striker fired pistol I ever handled! Really didn't think it would be possible; but Robert sure knows both platforms well!
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4 hours ago, Johnnymazz said:
2. Rollsizer Decapper
3. Rollsized
4. Wet cleaned in my ultrasonic for 15 minutes
5. Case drier for 2 hours
6. Processed on my Cp2000
7. Cases get primed only on my dedicated Rl1100
8. Powder and bullets on my dedicated RL11000.
Very impressive setup! Thanks for sharing your equipment and procedures!
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19 minutes ago, Johnnymazz said:
All kidding aside both my Dillon autodrives are working flawlessly. I just finished priming 10,000 cases. I shoot 20,000 rounds a year so my machines get a good workout.
I have followed your posts with great interest since I so want to automate before next season. Wondering if you ever do full processing on one of your DA3000s? I'm currently loading fully processed, unprimed brass; so I'm utilizing the RL1100's full capabilities except for depriming. Just curious if you would still recommend the DA3000 vs say the M7 autodrive, for single pass processing? Of course I can't remember if you've owned an M7 drive or not......
Also, do you find the requirement to recenter the press at BDC prior to restarting automation an aggravation/inconvenience? Or is it just something your accept and integrate into your various processing routines?
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21 minutes ago, Johnnymazz said:
They have to do that LOL. Every tool bag would be suing them looking to cash in with 9 fingers left
I definitely agree and understand your assessment!
SMH!
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7 hours ago, brian45acp said:
Got my order in. Thanks again for the help.
Any tricks for the seating die? Do the dies come with instructions? Watching vids now to get an idea.
Dumb question but are the lock rings from Redding just finger tight? There is no wrench I thought until I just saw a video of some sort of pressure wrench that squeezes onto the knurled lock ring a guy used.
They definitely come with instructions. I would first disassemble the dies for a thorough cleaning, then lightly relube for protection. Become familiar with the dies during cleaning!
Am attaching standard instructions "and" additional instructions for the Seater. Notice the spring below the micrometer head? Remove it and put it back in the storage box. Easy to install and setup up dies if you simply follow instructions.............
I never use the Redding lock rings. IMO, they're a bit bulky. So I simply use the ones that come on the Dillon dies.
https://benstoegerproshop.com/dillon-precision-1-die-lock-rings-5-pack/
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5 minutes ago, brian45acp said:
Good info, thank you.
My current setup is actually working really well but for some reason I want to have higher end dies than Dillon. I also like the added insurance of being more undersized. The brass we are getting now is not like before the ammo shortage and some weird stuff is out there. My range sells roll sized polished for $45 per 1000 plus I get 10% off which can’t be beat. With the best dies I now have no concern even despite having questionable brass.
Same here. Using fully processed brass; and with the One-Shot lube, the press smoothly produces excellent quality ammo!
Yes, that is a good price! I would definitely stock up on those!
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20 minutes ago, brian45acp said:
Thank you very much. I did read they undersize like the LEE. I have used the LEE for many years as well.
I am just looking for something a little better quality to match my setup. I love my CNC toolhead and want to take full advantage of it. The Dillon taper die and my alpha dropper stick a lot on brand new brass. I’m shooting left out match in 2 weeks and did a run of starline brass with CCI primers to assure I have good quality reloads. Being new that brass stuck a lot. The dillon taper die would pop at release for some reason.
ok, so the undersize pins are the correct ones. There must be a reason so I’ll get those.
How is the taper die on the Dillon toolheads?
TBH, I have been using the Pro Comp Micrometer Taper Crimp die for years. And after a long discussion with my friend in Redding Engineering, he talked me into trying the standard TC die that's included with the Kit above.
The Micrometer TC die is great if one's needing to constantly adjust for "big" oal differences in the brass your using. Polishing the floating crimp insert definitely helps, but it requires a lot more cleaning/lubing to keep the sticking to a minimum. The sticking is just an unfortunate by-product of the design of the die. But it definitely works!
What's I have found with the standard TC die is if it's not over-adjusted, which produces too much crimp, then I feel no sticking whatsoever with the same headstamp brass I'm currently using! Actually it's extremely smooth and I'm definitely glad I made the switch. My crimp is set to yield ~.377" to .378". And I experience ZERO bullet setback in any of my 9mm pistols!
IMO, this is one of the better posts for successfully setting up the TC die correctly:
https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=78873.0
HTHs!
PS: the undersize pins are for dealing with the small primer holes that a lot of range brass has. So, these will work with about any brass you may be processing.
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9 minutes ago, brian45acp said:
I have those in my midway cart but wasn’t sure about them.
I did email Lyman tech asking how thick the mark 7 toolhead is because that would answer the issues I had.
it’s just stupid these companies skill on a few threads and create these issues. I don’t understand it.
so tell me about the Redding dies. I wanted to get the competition pro dies and their expander die. Expanding at my priming station worked great with the Lyman pro dies. Currently I’m using a spring loaded hold down die and that serves its purpose as well. But expanding there means no more floating powder funnel expander die that sticks. The alpha dropper solves most of this issue but not nearly as nice as a screw down expander die.
How is the Redding pro taper die?
these are the ones:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012575915?pid=610299
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1019976654?pid=182487
Also which decap pins are the proper ones? I read on here the standard size get stuck in flash holes so they use the undersize ones. Is that true?
Both of your choices above are the exact setup I'm currently using! And they have given me MANY YEARS of trouble free service only requiring a yearly cleaning. And one thing to note that has been discussed and confirmed by Redding Engineering, is that the Redding Titanium Carbide sizing die (9mm) "undersizes" the brass approximately -0.002" which is very similar to the Lee Undersize Die (-0.003").
These are the decapping pins you'll want to use also:
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012974329?pid=763052
Good luck; and I feel confident you'll be very satisfied with your Redding Dies!
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Out of curiosity, I'm wondering if Lyman dies are shorter in the threads due to their tool heads having a thinner profile than the Dillon RL1100/S1050s? Checked my RL1100, and it's 1" thick just as your CNC tool head.
Viewing the Evo/Revo and Apex10 tool heads on the Mark 7 site, they do "look" to be a thinner profile/thickness though that's just a guess. May ask one of the Mark 7 owners on the non-Dillon Reloading Equipment forum, to take a quick measurement of the tool head specifically where the dies mount. Could shed some light on the subject.
My optional dies for the Dillons I've used over the years has always been the Redding Pro Competition series; and have never had an issue running out of threads!
https://www.midwayusa.com/reloading-dies/br?Brand=Redding&cid=702
Their latest series are as good as it gets IMO......
https://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/221-nxgen-carbide-die-sets
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18 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:
Have you purchased from any of these places? That seems way too good of a deal to be true. Especially when the rest of the world is around 0.30 a round.
Has anyone on this thread ordered from any of these places?
Seems you can buy private label 115g for ~$0.205 a round according to AmmoSeek. Have no idea as to the quality of the components!
https://ammoseek.com/ammo/9mm-luger
Browsing through this thread I have to agree with some of the long-term reloaders in that it's a hobby within itself. And I'm sure that most veteran reloaders would have stocked their shelves heavily with primers, powder, bullets, brass, etc back in 2016 when all this BS started!
My PRIMARY reason for reloading is, as has been mentioned, I can tailor my loads for individual guns; and most times come up with a load that will shoot/function fine in several of my pistols! As one that loads for ACCURACY along with functionality, I have yet to shoot any premium, name-brand ammo (9mm) that can match the results I can get with my reloads.
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5 hours ago, Sigarmsp226 said:
When RollSizer company, who manufactures commercial depriming machines capable of deprimming 3000+ rounds an hour sells their machines with a FW Arms depriming/decapping die with each machine, and it is the same die that FW Arms sells on their website - well that makes my selection easy…..
I have the RollSizer Depriming machine and have deprimed about 48,000 pieces of small primer pistol and rifle brass so far and the die is still functioning as intended and I have only bent/broke one pin and that one was my fault….YRMV
Good, solid advice!
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4 hours ago, Murzikrv said:
See a lot for sale, but how to really make sure it is.
Lot of good info here!
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On 11/3/2022 at 6:59 PM, echotango said:
Interesting. Mine are different/shorter. 6"
FWIW, I was just fumbling through some stuff and came across the ISMI 12.5 recoil springs I was using in the P320. Also saw the NicTaylor00 spring calibration kit I had purchased. The all measured right at +/- 6".
Attached is a pic of the ISMI packaging..........
HTHs
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38 minutes ago, echotango said:
The ones I previously got were(ones for my open guns), my most recent were not. I am thinking they are not real ISMI. I emailed the company, we'll see what they say.
Looking forward to hearing your results..........
X5 Recoil Springs
in Sig
Posted
@echotango @ddc
This has seriously sparked my interest since I'm using the P320 MAX and probably don't have a lot of rounds on it yet. And it's been working fine with the 12# spring; even with some 136+ test loads.
First thing that comes to mind is what are the torque specs for the mounting screws? IIRC, I had read that at one time Sig recommended somewhere around 30 in/lbs for the tightening torque. And IMO, that seems way too high! But I've not had to check the screws on the MAX as it came pre-mounted.........
The SRO and 2 Holosuns I have all recommend 15 in/lbs.....
Thanks!