HOGRIDER
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Posts posted by HOGRIDER
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2 hours ago, HesedTech said:
I have found this statement to be false. When loading deep seated 147s a .356 147 seated to 1.10 OAL will, not might, have the bullet swaged smaller. Why? Because the brass is tapered in thickness as it approaches the base, in particular CBC brass is the thickest of all and will bulge with the 147s.
The FCD reforms that bulge and as the brass springs back a bit leaves the softer lead smaller than the brass. I know this from first hand experience and will never use the Lee FCD on 9mm. It is an attempt top fix a problem which should be fixed in the process and not post reloading.
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52 minutes ago, Bonfire said:
I use mixed brass and it occurs with everyone.
The primers are Fiocci.
The reason for not swaging is i have not seen one piece of 9x19 brass with crimped primer pocket in all my years.
Then you need to invest in a gage set to do random primer pocket checks prior to processing.
https://ballistictools.com/store/small-and-large-primer-pocket-gauges
I think your going to be shocked at the results!
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Definitely going LO!
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12 hours ago, OptimiStick said:
No primer sensor is a bummer.
With the primer orientation sensor being so popular, do you think they wouldn't include the option to use one?
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15 minutes ago, Smokey99 said:
OOPS! When I said I had heard a CZ 75 Tac Sport would fit the correct designation for the Tac Sport Is TRT92BWFU07. The STI Trojan sight is an LPA cut - just need to identify the correct one.
Definitely recommend contacting Dawson Precision!
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This might help............
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12 hours ago, Chapo said:
This happened all of a sudden. I was reloading just fine and then this happened.
Page 67 of the Owner's Manual..............
Check screw #62213 that holds the "brass" roller in place to see if the screw has backed out a bit and is catching the slide channel?
As @ddcmentioned above, there should be practically zero resistance in the channel!
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Quote
A little demonstration on how easy it is to load 24 rounds in the factory Canik mag using our Ultra Max springs and followers with Henning
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IMO, having owned the RL1100 and now an Apex 10, I would definitely prefer the digital belt driven Mark7 automation unit.
If using the 8 station RL1100/S1050 with the Mark7 unit, and you later want to upgrade to say the 10 station Apex 10, then for an additional $250, you can use the same automation unit! And your S1050/RL1100 would still be un-modified in case you decided to sell or re-purpose.
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3 hours ago, clw42 said:
Upon closer inspection of the upper portion, I now think it's actually the adhesive and not an actual o'ring. Where the tube inserts into the brass fitting, there wasn't any residue so it looked like an o'ring.
Very similar to this, but without the glue touching it so I thought they were two separate things.
@clw42I just took my OEM dropper out of the spare parts box; and it appears the only thing joining the clear tube to the bottom weight and top switch unit is some form of clear adhesive. And I can easily see how it could appear as an o-ring if there was a slight separation of of the tube from either end!
Glad you finally got to the cause of all your aggravation!
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3 hours ago, Ontarget said:
For USPSA shooting, are cheaper bullets as good as more expensive ones? I see some 9mm bullets for 6.5 cents each (Brazos)
and others for 10 cents each. Does it matter? Also, who do you recommend for coated bullets.? Thanks.
I think the consensus "for USPSA shooting" will show Blue Bullets being the most used!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/type21fkflns7zr/2020_Survey_Results.pdf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jwcv6hjxssyt9ct/2021Survey_Results.pdf?dl=0
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4 hours ago, clw42 said:
No, I wish I had though! I didn't even think to snap a couple of pictures. I was so caught up in slapping myself in the head for not thinking to check something other than the dropper die, while also being elated that I found the problem that I fixed it and put everything back together to run some more tests.
It would have been a good tutorial though...dammit.
Understand!
I had disassembled the pro dropper assembly for a good cleaning when moving the MBF over to the Apex 10, and don't remember seeing any "o-rings" in the brass tube assembly. But I wasn't looking for anything either; just a good swab with an alcohol patch and thorough cleaning of the dropper assembly.
I'll definitely file this thread for future reference!
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6 minutes ago, clw42 said:
Well, this is embarrassing to admit, but here we are.
I filed and sanded and polished the dropper die again this morning. It's literally a shiny, glowing funnel. There's not a single ledge or ledge like surface to be seen. I placed bullets almost horizontally on the top and they corrected and slid down the die with ease. I put everything back together, fill the system and everything falls into place as it should. I load one round and the bullets don't fall. If I had hair to pull out, my scalp would have been a bloody mess. I tried a few more rounds with the same result.
So, I took everything down again, but this time I removed the polycarbonate tube and brass fitting from the switch so I could see how that whole assembly was working together. I filled it by hand and gently activated the die so a bullet would drop, then another then another. Crap, nothing obvious there. That is until I pull the brass fitting and tube off and four bullets weren't falling out from the bottom (through the brass fitting). So I flip it over, dump the bullets and put a flashlight at the end so I could see inside the tube. I'm initially thinking there's a burr on the brass. Turns out, the little silicone o'ring deteriorates over time. A small piece of it was pinched between the tube and the brass and blocking the bullets from dropping consistently. It was never the damn dropper die at all!!!!
TL;DR - Long Story Short Version:
Check the little silicone o'rings, they go bad over time, and will gum up the works.
Great to hear you finally found the problem!
Any detail pics to share with others?
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3 minutes ago, OptimiStick said:
all good.
Did you trip torquesense at all before you backed it off?
LOL! I wish! Unfortunately I'm still operating in "manual" mode..............for now.
But automation is definitely in my future plans!
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2 minutes ago, OptimiStick said:
Yeah, I know how the die works - I've seen and used the setup video and I have one installed- but to me that's normal operation. You're using the spring to engage the foot early, so that as different webbing thicknesses come , you have positive engagement on all of them, to varying degrees. The spring giving you that range of engagement. Cam-over, to me is when the press keeps cranking past its mechanical stop - affecting its linkages. I hadn't seen it on my Revolution, which is why I was asking what the symptoms were. But I wouldn't' refer to that as cam-over. As least as I understand it. It's just the spring doing its thing. But you aren't pushing the press past TDC.
Yes, your right, as it was indeed the spring doing it's thing. But with my unfamiliarity of the Apex10 in "manual" operation, and the strong resistance of the spring, it felt just like earlier experiences of cam over in the old XL650 days.........
Sorry for my confusion............
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20 minutes ago, ddc said:
I'm confused. Isn't what you are describing exactly how it is supposed to work?
Yes Sir! My point is since I was using same headstamp, fully pre process brass I didn't really need the additional "dynamic" spring hold down with every cycle of the press handle. Again, the die's spring is pretty stout and was producing resistance I didn't really need...........
It's an excellent product and works exactly as designed. IMO, it's benefits really shine when processing large quantities of mixed range brass!
Sorry for any confusion............
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47 minutes ago, HesedTech said:
I load range brass and gave up sorting head stamps years ago. I process and load large (thousands) quantities of 223/5.56 and 9mm on my 1050 and because the hold down die at the swager couldn’t be set precisely because of the variety of head stamps swaging didn’t always go as well as I would have liked. If I set it to the thinnest base there would be variations in OAL. When FW came out with their spring loaded self centering hold down die I jumped in it. Now OALs and swaging are far more consistent.
I also use a spring loaded hold down die at the priming station. Really improves consistency in primer seating depth.
https://lvl10i.com/products/priming-system-support-die-for-super-1050@HesedTechI can definitely relate to your reasons for using the spring loaded FW Arms and Level10 dies! IMO, they definitely stabilize the shellplate/process producing far more consistency!
I also appreciate my situation that uses same headstamp brass where I can set the hold down and swage to produce little to no shell plate deflection while directly seeing this effect the consistency at the seating and crimping stations. I will interject that for me, this has been much easier to setup on the Apex10 than with the RL1100.......
Always good to hear of your knowledge and experience!
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11 minutes ago, OptimiStick said:
How could you tell? What were the symptoms?
Prior to purchasing the Dynamic Hold Down die, I watched the "official" setup video a couple of times:
If you've seen the video, it's easy to understand that when setting up the hold down "foot" you run the die body down to where it touches the inner case head with the tool head down. Then after raising the tool head, the die body is rotated CW (down) an additional 320*. My understanding is this applies the "dynamic" spring loaded foot to provide a solid hold down while having enough spring variation to also accept different thickness headstamp brass. And, btw, the self centering part of the die is also a big plus when dealing with mixed range brass.
As for my symptoms, I'm sure you can imagine setting the hold down foot to intercept and solidly hold the case at the exact bottom of the stroke; then when I ran the die body down an additional 320*, this caused the foot to contact the same headstamp, basically same thickness brass "before" the toolhead had bottomed out in it's stroke travel. So, continuing to intercept the stop of the press handle required the foot to compress the dynamic spring for 320* of travel which I relate to as "cam over".........
Sorry if this is TMI.........but just how I interpret this die is supposed to work with a simplified explanation.
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1 hour ago, HesedTech said:
The best swage hold down die is made by FW arms and has fixed the issue of having different head stamp base thickness.
https://fwarms.com/shop/reloading/hold-downs/fw-arms-auto-case-centering-dshd/
Best purchase I made for my 1050.
Had one I started out with on the Apex10, and found the 320* beyond "touching" was causing a cam-over for press operation. Then backed it off to 1/8" turn past touching, and had much better performance. IMO, that Dynamic die uses a very strong spring! But it is a top quality, premium product!
@HesedTechdid you experience any issues setting up for your 1050?
Since I was strictly using WIN same headstamp, fully pre-processed brass, I decided to try the "included" Lyman Pro hold down die and so far it's worked flawlessly. The urethane insert does provide just a bit of "give" and I feel confident it would stop the process if a stray slipped though......
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6 minutes ago, clw42 said:
Still getting 2-3 stoppages every 20 or so rounds. I might try a new standard dropper die since the Pro Assembly is out of stock everywhere aside from MK7. It's just irritating, because I've literally loaded a ton of RN bullets, Blues included, without a problem...until now. All of a sudden it's an issue. If it were the dropper die though, I would have thought this clean up job would fix it.
@clw42Something came to mind where another user was pulling his hair out experiencing a very rare situation. The Pro Dropper you have now, was it purchased as an original 9mm dropper with the yellow zip tie up top? Reason I ask is the other user having difficulties was using a different caliber dropper and decided to load 9mm with it. Ended up he had forgot to change out the dropper ball bearings to the correct size for the caliber he was swapping to.
Installed the correct size bearings and fixed his completely! 9mm should be using 4.5mm balls.
Just thinking out loud............
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28 minutes ago, gunshrink said:
Thinking of getting the tungsten guide rod for my Legion - currently have the 12 pound spring in there but not sure with this heavier guide rod if that will be the best. Any input from those that have made this trip about your experience.
Thanks
IMO, the weight of the necessary recoil spring is determined by the PF of your load (slide speed) and how quickly your sights return to zero.
I installed the tungsten guide rod and did not feel or experience the need to change recoil spring weight. It's more about balancing the weight distribution of the pistol..........
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On 1/23/2023 at 5:48 PM, dillon said:
Its purpose in life is to prevent lifting the machine handle if the handle has not been moved completely down. If you short-stroke the handle, you can get a high primer, as well as a bullet not fully seated or crimped.
On 1/25/2023 at 1:50 PM, dillon said:Because on the other machines, the cases move up and down. On the gray machines, the dies move up and down. On the blue machines you push the handle forward to seat the primer, then the primer cup spring rebounds the platform slightly. No real need for this ratchet on the blue machines.
So @dillon would it be safe to also say that, since some machines are moving the shell plate "up and down" and the other gray machines are moving the tool head "up and down", the operator does not need to be concerned with a "bullet not fully seated or crimped"?
I'm also wondering if the 1050/1100 ratchet system would help in preventing an over or undercharged amount of powder being dispensed; and going unnoticed? If so, how is this not a consideration with the XL650/XL750 presses which are considered to also be true progressive machines?
Not being combative or dis-respectful; just truly trying to understand the benefit and purpose of a "safety system" that's needed for the 1050/1100 machines and not the 650/750s.
Inadequate Neck Tension with Precision Delta 147gr FMJ
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
Agree 100%!
IMO, especially when using mixed range brass, a simple taper crimp die should be all that's needed as long as sizing and expansion are done correctly.