HOGRIDER
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Posts posted by HOGRIDER
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5 hours ago, ddc said:
With all the other 3rd party P320 options available I'm a little surprised someone has not come up with a machined FCU.
I have no knowledge of how easy or difficult it would be to machine an FCU. Anybody?
@ddcGood point........since the FCU is a serialized part, I'm wondering if the 4 contact points could be welded up and re-machined similar to a 1911's frame rails?
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43 minutes ago, stephenmcrna said:
Amy updates on release
Bobcat Armament is taking pre-orders........stated a couple months ago, on the M7 FB Group, they were "hearing" late Q1/early Q2.
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On 2/20/2023 at 9:30 AM, RJH said:
I'm also glad I waited though since egw is making a prodigy specific mag well now.
And giving specific fitting instructions!
https://www.egwguns.com/blog/2023/03/10/springfield-prodigy-quick-mag-well-fitting/
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2 hours ago, ddc said:
I would guesstimate the majority of press problems posted on the internet would go away if people would just take some time and do some routine maintenance.
AGREE!
You nailed it!
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23 minutes ago, midatlantic said:
Yep what I thought so interesting is how definitive it sounded. Like a command! This is how it works….wonder what else it’s wrong about…
IMO, it's probably a quote that somebody read or misinterpreted in some way.
Straight from the 1911 Timing Test Kit courtesy of Wil Scheumann:
QuoteBefore a 1911 is fired, the slide is forward and the barrel is locked to the slide via the meshing
of the upper lugs on the barrel into the matching grooves in the slide. The barrel is hooked to the
frame via a link, the bottom end of which is connected to the slide stop pin. The link is vertical when
the slide and barrel are forward. When the gun is fired, the slide and barrel begin moving rearward
together. As the barrel moves rearward, the link rotates about the slide stop pin and starts pulling
the barrel down, thereby beginning the unlocking of the barrel from the slide. After the link pulls the
barrel downward sufficiently, the barrel becomes completely unlocked from the slide. Then the back
of the lower lugs on the barrel will hit the impact surface in the frame, which will stop the barrel's
rearward motion, and combined with the link, the barrel's downward motion. The slide freely
continues rearward to complete the ejection of the fired case and then moves forward to load the
next round into the barrel.HTHs
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3 hours ago, MuayThaiJJ said:
I don't have much real estate on this slide, but would really like a racker. Anyone know of a good but small racker that might work?
thanks!
N
I think these are going to be a big hit with the Limited Optics crowd!
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2 minutes ago, ltdmstr said:
There are plenty of sources online that explain how to do this correctly. Clearly Chatgpt isn't one of them.
Agree!
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4 minutes ago, ltdmstr said:
Not sure how that makes any sense either. If the barrel is already installed and not contacting the VIS, removing material from the VIS isn't going to fix the problem. Maybe what they mean is to add a relief cut so the lower portion of the lugs don't contact the frame. But that may or may not fix the problem. Also, that's only relevant for non-ramped barrels because ramped barrel cuts don't have a relief.
Understand a ramped barrel does not need a relief/VIS............
My answer was with regards to the OP's "answer" he posted:
QuoteDuring firing and recoil, the barrel of an M1911 pistol is not supposed to strike either the horizontal or vertical impact surface of the frame.
That statement is not ENTIRELY correct.
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Thoughts?
Here's the correct answer.........
QuoteIt's amazing the number of guns coming from manufacturers without a VIS (vertical impact surface) cut. This cut is where the barrel feet impact during link down and recoil. The cut insures that top or most rigid portion of the barrel feet take the impact instead of the lower area. Cutting it is not difficult and can be done without a refinish.
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1 hour ago, datderecelltech said:
I use the .357 size one indicated by their website as being the correct one to use for bullets sized .356.
The issue is that the funnel depth adjustment is very fincky also. With the variance in brass, if I try to adjust the funnel to go deeper to accomodate the underbelled cases, the previously fine cases would be way overbelled or even burst. This is even with minor adjustments.
Well...........let's see.........
Not knowing your experience level, I would first try to sort out a 100 or so SAME HEADSTAMP brass and do some testing.
Is your shell plate adjusted correctly? Not too loose?
Do you lube your brass prior to loading?
When finalizing the powder drop adjustment, do you lower the handle/raise the ram with a case in the shell plate before final tightening of the powder measure?
What seating die are you using? Correct insert for your bullet profile?
Separate crimp die?
Hope this helps!
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6 hours ago, datderecelltech said:
Currently using a uniqutek 9mm powder funnel. Bought it as the normal dillon funnel was not the most consistent with belling the case and I would get erratic COAL especially with coated bullets.
Uniqutek does allow for more consistent coal, but the case mouth expansion has been very inconsistent, especially with the mixed brass I have been using. Every 6th brass is underbelled to the point where coated bullets cannot be realistically inserted without shaving it and plated bullets take considerable effort to push in.
I have been looking at mighty armory powder funnel for a solution. Any inputs on them?
What diameter coated bullets are you using? Sounds like you may not have the correct size powder funnel.......
https://uniquetek.com/product/T1736
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9 hours ago, mpeltier said:
Well, I fixed it. Its as good as most of my competition guns now.
I decided to do some side to side comparisons with other P320's and a couple M&P's. All of which shot much better than my XFive.
In a nutshell my conclusion was that barrel to slide was as good but the way the slide rested in the FCU was so much worse with the XFive. Even with my M17 top end on it there was excessive play. If you pinched the front of the slide to the dustcover there was .032 of free play. Considerably more than any of my other Poly pistols. I had read in another thread about this I believe.
I figured the worse I could do was trash an FCU.......down to the workshop (where the big hammers live) and did some swinging.
First I took some measurements of the FCU so I could gauge my progress. I needed to lower the rails by .020. At least that was my goal and wanted to approach this number with caution and slowly. It took some real good taps, with the help and trust of my son holding the FCU. But I got er done, and didn't break it.
The process widened the rails so they had to be massaged with a file to get a good fit with the slide. I progressed until it was sorta a hard fit then stopped, lubed and re assembled. It actually was like the original Fives in as much as if you rode the slide home it would stop short but released from slide lock went home nicely.
Took it outside to my range and it ran flawlessly, and grouped about one third the size as previously and best of all...no flyers at all.
First target was a group under 2"
Next target was 50rds rapid fire as fast as I could pull the trigger......3-1/4" group.
When I tried that last weekend 1/4 of the hits were off the 8x11 paper.
@mpeltierCongratulations on the results of your experimentation! Definitely proved what results can be had.
I remembered seeing a similar post a while back that also showed what could be done by bringing the FCU rails down to get rid of that excessive play:
Would definitely jump on the opportunity to purchase a precision CNC machined FCU to improve the slide to FCU fit!
Thanks for sharing your results!
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EGW makes excellent products...........If I were in the same boat, I would definitely consider one of their adapter plates!
https://www.egwguns.com/pistol-and-red-dot-mounts/mounts-by-firearm-brand-sight-cut/
IMO, correct installation yields satisfactory results.
Give them a call! Great people to deal with.
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6 hours ago, ItsKirby said:
Noob question. I have a 2011 STI edge. I was looking to buy a new barrel. Anyone know what barrel ramp cut I need? Wilson/nowlin or para/clark?
thanks
If you have your existing barrel in hand, this might also give some reference.........
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On 2/18/2023 at 10:51 PM, SufferInSilence said:
- Sear spring is specific to Prodigy (remember that when ordering parts).
- EGW internals kit is a Prodigy specific.
(Remember that when ordering)
Got another question concerning the Prodigy and wondering if you can clarify and/or confirm regarding the sear spring? Looking under the EGW "Evolved" 1911 sear spring, one if the questions asked was:
QuoteWill this work with a Springfield Armory Prodigy?https://www.egwguns.com/evolved-1911-sear-spring-2-pack
EGW answered that NO, their Evolved sear spring would not work; however their #10690 would work. Looking up #10690 yields it's the genuine Colt 1911 Sear Spring which I have personally used in several 1911 and 2011 pistols without issue.
Do you have a standard 1911 sear spring that you could possibly compare the Prodigy's sear spring to for a direct comparison, next time you pull it down for cleaning, maintenance, etc?
I also noticed under the heading for one of EGWs excellent fire control groups, that during the order/selection process they specifically ask: "Do you have a Springfield Prodigy"?
https://www.egwguns.com/egw-ignition-kit-w-stainless-steel-lightened-hammer
(Note, this kit includes the EGW "Evolved" sear spring.)
And if you answer/confirm you are ordering for a Prodigy, then the option states:
Quote"Yes, I have a Prodigy please swap my sear spring to the correct one for my gun"
My take on this is that EGW's Evolved sear spring will not work in the Prodigy; however a standard Colt 1911 spring will.
Appreciate any first hand experience you can share regarding the Prodigy's sear spring and ignition components!
Thanks!
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5 hours ago, vinceislander said:
I'm looking for recommendations on high quality punch kits to be used for upgrading parts. 99% of my guns are both polymer and metal CZs. After upgrading the trigger on a CZ P-10 and bending a roll pin punch from Amazon in the process, I'm ready to buy a kit that will last. Wheeler and Grace USA are on my list.
Any input is appreciated.
Bought the Grace USA roll pin punch set in 2015, and it has served me well!
https://www.amazon.com/Grace-USA-Gunsmithing-Gunsmith-Accessories/dp/B007WADKN0
As @zzt mentioned, the Starrett punch sets are excellent quality:
https://www.amazon.com/Drive-Pin-Punch-S565WB-Pieces/dp/B09NMVVT86?th=1
HTHs!
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17 hours ago, SufferInSilence said:
Sure! @HOGRIDER
I got the pistol for $1200 through Shoot Straight’s LEO program. That was a big purchasing factor. It came with 1-17r mag and 2-21r mags.
All in, I’d say I’m right around $2,500 +/- a few bucks as it sits in the pics above.
I don’t regret it vs another type of purchase.I haven’t had any of the issues other reviewers describe (even when I had it stock).
It shoots like a dream.I appreciate you sharing your costs!
And, thank you Sir for your Service!
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3 hours ago, jt1207 said:
I shot two 2011s in Limited Major and Open for 2021, then mostly CO last season, and now want to go back to a single-action gun this season. And you're right, 2011s do set the bar very high for a shooting experience. Your discussion and endorsement of the 2011 platform is compelling given the length of your experience. And I'm glad to see another vote for the DS9. Thank you for the insight!
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On 2/18/2023 at 10:51 PM, SufferInSilence said:
Ok fellas, mine is done!
- Cheely L2 Grip, steel.
- Cheely Tactical mag well, steel (a total B1tch to hand fit)- Grip is Cerakote Armorer Black with Fx Ranger top coat
- Trijicon SRO 5 MoA
- Atlas high ride/shielded thumb safety
- Atlas tool-less guide rod, 8# spring
- Infinity trigger (small flat shoe) I have a Red Dirt on standby.
- Kept all the MIM internals for now just to put them to the test. (trigger at 1.25-ish#)
Things I learned along the way:(Results may vary)
- Prodigy trigger bow is longer than most others I compared it to. So other bows/triggers might/probably not work in a Prodigy grip.
- Swap grip module and you can run what you want internally but prodigy trigger bow might not work in them. (Too long)
- Sear spring is specific to Prodigy (remember that when ordering parts).
- EGW internals kit is a Prodigy specific.
(Remember that when ordering)- Infinity trigger will NOT work in Prodigy grip modules. (Call them and they will confirm this).
- The frame screws on the trigger guard/grip module are fatter than say: STI/everyone else, they won’t work on swapped out grip modules. You’ll need a new set.
- Prodigy grip module doesn’t fit STI/SVI DAA Race Master holster blocks (Cheely grip does but may be overly tight for a while).
- Trijicon does not provide the correct length screws to mount the SRO/RMR to the optic mount. You’ll need to grind the screws down or buy the correct length screws on Trijicon’s site.
- Nitro Fins don’t fit the Prodigy (someone please start making one!!!)Shoots great, only time will tell.
Good luck. Any questions hit me up.
@SufferInSilenceCongrats! Your Prodigy looks great!
Mind sharing a ballpark "$$" you spent, in addition to the cost of the pistol, getting to this level?
Thanks!
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@jt1207As a Super Senior competitor that's had a "love affair" with the 1911 then 2011 platform for 50+ years, I've experienced CMC, STI, CZ, Glock, Sig, etc. in various types and levels of competition.
I am now committed to that "upcoming" Limited Optics, 2011/DS style platform; and have ordered an MPA DS9 Hybrid! I fully understand it's not a FULL CUSTOM like an SVI or an Atlas, but it does fall in a "middle ground" price category that IMO offers a LOT of Bang for the Buck! And yes, I will be glad to compete in Open Minor until LO becomes a "provisional"!
https://masterpiecearms.com/cat/ds9-accessories/ds9-pistols/general-purpose-pistols/
As others have mentioned, there are definitely customs/platforms that would do an excellent job in LO; but if you've ever had the pleasure to own/operate an 1911/2011/DS platform, nothing will totally satisfy your "thirst" for that particular type of action.
HTHs!
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40 minutes ago, Greyghost1962 said:
so hopefully getting the new components will help as I am getting sick of dealing with inverted primers that either seat and catch on the primer orientation sensor, or ones that just mangle and jam the primer disk.
The OP of this post, @StefVanHauwe, posted this in a discussion on another site:
QuoteI use an automated Apex10 and run my 9mm major in one go. Since I've installed the Primer Express I didn't have any priming issues anymore.
Hopefully you'll have a similar experience once you get the updated Primer Xpress parts installed and running!
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3 minutes ago, Dirty_J said:
Some good advice in there. VC3 is far superior to any Loctite products for these applications.
Anyone that’s not varying torque values based on screw diameter and use of thread locking compounds is asking for trouble.
Now if only they (C&H) could get back to making their plates to proper specs and QC.
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On 2/17/2023 at 8:46 PM, Zahnarzt said:
Can someone give me the recommended/ideal torque value for screws that secure a red dot sight?
Some good install/torque value recommendations from respectable business!
https://chpws.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/MRDS-Mounting-22_MAY_2020.pdf
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16 hours ago, slavex said:
buy the DAA plate for the casefeeder, it comes with a really nice wedge that will stop this, and you get a better shellplate as a result too
My recommendation exactly!
Could forget about case feed problems after installing the DAA plate/wedge.........
Limited Optics
in USPSA/IPSC Rules
Posted
It may have been discussed earlier in this thread; but I haven't noticed it.......
Will the LO pistols be allowed to use an Open style holster? Or a Production/CO style kydex?
If an Open style race holster is allowed, what's the most popular that can be utilized in LO?
Thanks!