MstngLX50

Not if it's just laying around since you use the grill brush on your teeth... I use mobil 1 wheel bearing grease, ran out of slide glide and it seemed similar. That was 2 years ago. I use M Pro 7 for oil requiring areas and M4s. I've also been known to use whatever rental cars have via the dipstick.

Bigger hammer? You might try some penetrating oil but mine all took a fair amount of fore to move/remove. The largest punch you can fit on the rear will minimize the dimpling and scarring. My first one looks like a rat gnawed on the sight... CZC had a sight pusher tool at SHOT, I don't know if it's released or not but that could be another option.

Are you sure your sizing die is adjusted down as far as it can go, and that it didn't back out? My CZs all have fairly generous chambers and I've never had a round make it all the way through the press that wouldn't fit. The majority of my brass is from an agency range that uses Glocks. The leade is short, and that could be an issue but if it's the brass sticking it sounds like a die adjustment issue to me. I don't use the U-Die, just regular Lee dies. If you're going to use the U-Die use case lube.

Congrats, you won't regret it.

I'm not familiar with the Cajun pin so... What most people call a "roll pin" is a slotted spring pin, a piece of spring steel rolled in a circle with a gap between the ends. A coiled spring pin is similar but it is wrapped around itself a couple times, no gap. Looks like a snail from the side. My phantom came with coiled spring pins all the way around.

So was your original pin not a coiled spring pin, like a roll pin?

Mine from 2008 has coiled spring pins, completely different from metal framed CZs. Opening up both sides would seem like a bad plan looking at mine. Based on some of the other answers maybe they changed them at some point? I used an automatic center punch, only on one end, with the pin removed. Then drove it in with the small, non modified end first. Phantom doesn't get shot much, but it's been working like that for a few thousand rounds.

I believe he's selling them.

If you plan on shooting Production with it I suggest the Shadow. They don't have a firing pin block, so shorter reset. The firing pin block has to be in place, and functioning on the regular SP01 to be legal for Production. I also don't think the SRTS from CZ Custom will work with a firing pin safety and I like that system way too much to give it up.

Maybe the local reloader bought the coating and applied it poorly? The Bayous I've seen were evenly coated, base and all. Unrelated but I've started seeing shops selling ziploc baggies of "remanufactured" ammo that was clearly not someones best work.

Not much thicker than the thin AL. About .1 inch thicker when mounted. People with bigger hands seem to prefer the VZ.

Yes. I've experienced slower, which generally means heavier, bullets hitting higher. I've been told it's because the bullet is in the barrel longer, recoil starts to lift the pistol in the hand, and barrel is beginning the unlocking process. Seems logical to me, and it fits with my experience.

If your other option is hope then I'd buy as many as they'll let you... Wolf has been pretty good for me, as others mentioned harder to seat depending on press used. I haven't found them any harder, when properly seated, than winchester. 11lb mainspring in my CZ was setting them off. More relevant to you my Glocks with reduced striker springs were fine as well. Bottom line, seat them properly and you'll be golden. Also, it appears they're available to you. Other brands, who knows when you'll be able to get them.

The fastest way to swage is to use a 1050, either to load, or just to process. It has automatic swaging built in. Military brass goes through no problem. All other methods are tedious, and time consuming. Each piece of brass has to be handled. Dillon super swage would be my distant second choice. Lee, The reason for your inconsistency could be wal-mart related. Not uncommon for WCC brass to end up uncrimped, in their white box value pack ammo.

If the slide lock is needed, mine almost never is, your index finger can easily hit the release.

Not my first choice, but I think it gets a bad rap for durability. I had a plastic one for OIF 1, worked fine. So did several other guys, didn't see a single failure. Zeroing it is a pain in the ass and requires tools, battery life isn't the best, and changing the battery in the field sucks. When the dot is in the center of the glass you'll be looking over the top of the iron sights, not an issue. I think it depends on what you're trying to do here. If you already have a C-More or you're getting one used and it's just to play around with go for it. If you need or want a "combat" optic I think you could do better, or worse, see below. I vote no on the Colt 3 power.

"Require" is a little strong. If it's crimped primer brass it should prime easier reamed or swaged, but if your press is adjusted properly you should be able to prime successfully most of the time. I load on a 650 and crimped WCC has about a 95% success rate with wsp, lower with wolf. You can feel the difference in the handle.

CED 7000A, the airsoft one, will work with anything I've tried, including suppressed rimfire. Only issue is extra shots from other bays, keep an eye on it.

Yes, you can use the Dawson fiber optic sights in production.

I vote steel punch and bigger hammer. If the slide isn't rock solid that'll absorb some of the blow. It's more difficult if you're trying to save the sight, I wasn't. As for installing, you might need to remove metal. If it goes about 1/3 of the way in you're good, hammer it home. If it doesn't file carefully on one edge of the dovetail, the sight not the slide. The key is to try it often during the process so as to avoid an embarrassing phone call to Brazos.

Typically, around here it's a production shooter looking for extra match time, so production. At the local level, by that I mean here, it's not broken down any further than center fire iron sights. So you could do whatever you want holster, and ready condition wise. Me personally, I can't reach the safety on my Shadows so I'd never use it cocked and locked. I have little girl hands. If you can, go for it. Try both see what you think you get the most out of. If you get a race holster it'd give you the option of shooting ISP, and IPSC Production at a bigger match.

The My Weigh scales are definitely the way to go in my opinion. Until you step up to an Ohaus I don't think anything can touch them on performance, or reliability. The high-performance scale Mr. Enos is selling is a My Weigh model, so is the Gem Pro 250 mentioned above. To weigh your pistols I'd suggest a second scale, the capacity of the scales best suited for powder aren't going to get you where you want to go. For what I load I prefer the GemPro-250, if you're weighing .50 cal bullets or something the 500 might be the way to go. They give resolution down to .02 and .05 grains respectively. The ibalance 201 carried here "only" resolves down to .1 grain. Quotes around only because any of these are so far ahead of what most people are using it's splitting hairs.

I hope this is a super elaborate trolling attempt.

I'd check the shell plate bolt, make sure the shell plate isn't tipping. And make sure the seating punch moves freely. I think it's most likely a technique issue though, you have to follow through with more force at the end of the upstroke to reliably seat the wolfs. Much more so than other brands in my experience. If your press is wobbly this is more difficult as well.

I have an ancient Lee manual somewhere, but I just use the internet. Powder companies have their load data online. You won't find every powder bullet brand combo but you can get close enough for a starting point and work up. A lot of USPSA loads are outside of or right on the edge of published data so watch for pressure signs etc...