MstngLX50

In my opinion the CCC match south of College Station or the TXMG matches north of Austin are the only ones worth going to. The west houston IDPA stages aren't worth the drive, maybe good to learn on for a few matches but that's about it. I've never shot at Thunder but from what others have said it wouldn't be my thing.

So, what's the difference between the CZ and 9mm S_I followers?

What's the difference for the Grams CZ follower? For 3-gun I have the CZC basepads and for several years now I've been using the same Grams 9mm follower and spring I do on my STIs. I didn't know there was a CZ model...

I tend to go through extractor springs every 10k or so as well. If the ejection pattern starts getting erratic I clean the extractor, if it's still not tight I replace the spring.

I bought this kit. You can sell off some of the parts you don't need. http://shop.cz-usa.com/P-10999/Spare-Parts-Kit-Sp01-Shadow.aspx So far I've only needed a basepad, an extractor, and trigger return spring out of it. At a minimum I'd suggest having a couple trigger springs on hand. http://shop.cz-usa.com/P-0420013001/Trigger-Spring-7585.aspx

I aim at the first target, then bring the pistol to the box/flag without taking my eyes off the target. I've spent a lot of practice time playing with it, and that gives me the fastest, reliable hit.

Zero distance is a choice you should make based on the expected target distances at the matches you shoot, your ammo, and your rifle. As a blanket red dot zero knowing nothing else about your plans I'd say 200 yds. I think understanding your zero and where you hit with that zero at any distance is far more important than the distance you pick. As for the iron sights, I wouldn't use them. I would also recommend removing the magnifier and shooting limited.

Compared to other props I think they're relatively new. First one I saw was about 3-4 years ago. They're definitely becoming more common. Also known as a Polish plate rack.

I think the H is for hammer... Silly name but it shoots great. Consistently a minute with good ammo. I didn't really go looking for a hammer forged barrel, it was all I could find when I needed an 11" barrel.

I have that barrel, assuming your mean BFH, and that's exactly what mine says on it. I've been extremely pleased with it.

For some reason that looks like it belongs on a Draganov to me.

$8 per thousand? I think that's less than the scrap price. Care to share the store name? 4H kids around here sort and sell range brass so most of mine comes from them. When I order brass I use http://shop.thebrassexchange.com/Pistol-Brass_c2.htm Its been 90% once fired, there were a few with HK markings that've had the primer crimp chamfered/removed so I'm guessing some is commercial reloads run through rental guns. I tried a few out, no issues so in with the rest of the brass they went. For 9Major I start seeing loose primer pockets after about 5 loadings. Only bulging or rupturing issue I've ever had from 9Major was with once fired, by me, Amerc trash reloaded to major. It's the only headstamp I throw away. I use new Starline for big matches. In minor and major.

Are the compact Shadow Line pistols in the country yet?

That's very true. I'd say I use mine the most on my steel challenge Buckmarks. Due to their design the optic has to come off for thorough cleaning every few thousand rounds.

I have and use the laserlyte kit. But, the main reason I use it is because I have it. As often as not I just do as others have suggested and sight through the upper at the range. The line generator it comes with isn't that great either. You can level the scope better several different ways. Yellow poly rope on a tree branch being my go to.

I think that's Bushnell territory. Impossible to beat for the money and plenty left over for a set of rings. The 3.5-21 is an awesome scope, with some great reticle options. Even with a Horus reticle and nice rings you'll still come in under budget.

It's uncommon but not unheard of. The one I had back out was on a high round count test gun, so as a precaution I now stake it. It takes 30 seconds and it's a problem I'll never have again. Saw it a couple of times in the military as well.

I think he's talking about the roll pin holding the rubber on the end of the buffer. I use a center punch to move some metal over the hole so the pin can't run away. I only had it happen one time with a carbine buffer but that's what I do now.

There are service rifle shooters that have special socks to wear during barrel break in. World championships have been won both ways, I take the lazy way out and just shoot it. I have several sub minute rifles with 8-10K through them, never did anything break in wise and don't clean them particularly often.

This happens on several mags, or just one? I use Grams follower and springs for my 3 gun mags with CZC basepads. I had one mag develop a nosedive issue, it turned out to be the feedlips. One side had gotten stepped on or banged up. Straightening it and polishing out a large nick took care of it.

As a kid after umpteen thousand rounds with a Ciener I had a Bushmaster hammer peened at the notch a ridiculous amount then it broke. Now I have better stuff and they run great, filthy but great. I built up another lower so I didn't have to worry about cleaning the trigger assembly on my match rifle. Only issue I've had recently was having to remove metal from the bottom of the bolts on a Spikes and CMMG. They were low to the point that the AR Gold hammer was binding against them during recoil. Maybe that was the issue with the RRA.

I haven't found anything that was unreliable, or wasn't accurate enough in CZs. Egyptian surplus maybe but anything from Remington, Federal, Blazer, even Tula all worked great. As to your question about 124 vs 147, I'd go with the 124 at 1120. Less recoil.

True, it increases the fov in the glass but then the body blocks more from view. I'm not saying it's an unworkable optic, just that I didn't like it as much as I'd hoped I would, or as much as I like the M3 and M4.

I prefer the larger tubes with the 2moa dot. My Micro just sits in the safe while I use the M4 and EOTechs. I really wanted to like it, it wasn't cheap. But the FOV is so much better on the larger tubes I was faster. It's not that the micro covers up so much, just that what it's covering up is so close to the target I'm shooting, or transitioning on to. If I had to carry my gear up a mountain I might re-evaluate. For 3-Gun I think the EOTech models with 2 dots are the way to go, just my opinion.

The VTac handguard has a little movement to it but for what you're trying to do it should be fine. Just don't sling up like a highpower competitor or breaker bar it into a position. I'd put a dot or EOTech on and it's moot since irons would be for backup only.