GregJ

I just put a DP Ice gap magwell on my Kimber, and love it. Note, that if you go with the Ice, you'll most likely also need their mag bases - I know I did. If you go with another maker, you may need extended mag bases.

Ok guys, I'm beginning to think WST and me just aint gonna get along. I took my powder drop completely apart and cleaned it good with carb and choke cleaner (no brake cleaner on hand, will get some this weekend), keeping it away from any rubber parts. There really was no goop inside, but there was a little build up on the rotor near the cavity. I put it together and ran another two batches (100 rnds each batch), and it's still acting up. I adjust the insert for 4.8gr (checking about 20 drops for consistency), and then run a batch of 100 rounds. After I finish checking each round of the batch with the Wilson cartridge gauge, I drop a single charge and weigh it, and it's 5.0 to 5.1 gr !!! I drop a few more and it's back down to 4.8 It's like the powder is getting compressed into the rotor cavity during the short time it takes to check each round with the gauge. I thought maybe it was the Powder Funnel, as the inside diameter is smaller than the Hornady pistol adapter, but I got similar results with it. What I'm afraid of happening is if I'm called away in the middle of a batch (if you have a wife and kids, it WILL happen), and when I return the next round will have a charge higher than what it's supposed to have. I'm at a loss.

I have no experience with the M&P, but I had a similar problem with my Kimber when I replaced the rear target sight. I put Gun-Tite (specific product for guns) under the sight and on the set screw, it's supposed to fill in a few thousands of space. It worked for me, might work for you. EDIT: Here is Loctite 620 from Dawson's website. It's the same stuff in his videos on replacing front sights.

Welcome, from another NOVAer. We'll be at North Mountain this sunday, come on and check it out.

I noticed it last night at a local IDPA match (Postal Match). For the first time, I felt like I could call my shots, I was clearly seeing the front sight, and felt confident on my shot placement. At least two of the stages I zeroed down all targets. I've done two things that really helped me: changed from a red FO to a green FO on the front sight, and probably more important, I started shooting with a small piece of scotch tape over the left lense of my eye glasses. I'm 54, normally wear progressive bifocals, and for shooting glasses I had a pair made with the left lens having a distance Rx and the right lens a near Rx - approx at the front sight. This alone helped my shooting tremendously, but putting the tape on the left lens feels like it took it to another level. Time will tell.

Here's a great article, also look at Pt II. http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=332483&highlight=kimber+remove+extractor Note step 9, you will need to push the firing pin block with your finger nail while keeping pressure on the firing pin. If you dont do this, you'll be looking for the FP and spring somewhere on the other side of the garage.

Try putting a small strip of scotch tape over the lense of your dominant eye. I dont have cross dominance eyes, but it has helped me a lot putting it over my non-dominante eye, I get a much better, crisper sight picture.

I just switched to green, and it seems to stand out against the brown better. May be just my aging eyes too.

No, I dont have them yet, but maybe this will be the excuse I need to get them approved by the CFO?

I need to take some of the strain off my right elbow, and was thinking about using my LNL left handed. Anyone do this? Tips, etc? I've thought about somehow extending the handle around to the left side to make it a little more natural to do it left handed.

I tried the tape trick on lens of my weak eye (left eye) this weekend at a practice match. WOW, what a difference !! I'm 54 and new to this game, I wear progressive bifocals normally, but had a set of shooting glasses made a couple of years ago when I decided to start shooting competitively. My shooting glasses left eye Rx is single vision for distance, and the right eye is single Rx for near, approx where the front sight would be. These have been great, but the stress of shooting in a match always made it difficult to focus on the front sight like I know I should. The scotch tape allowed me to find the front sight quicker and in sharper focus, and to shoot quicker and more accurate. I felt like I was 'shooting the dot' for once. I'll be keeping a roll of scotch tape in my bag from now on.

My normal Rx is progressive bi-focals. Before I started shooting competitively, I knew I had to do something, as there was no way I would be able to see the front sight without constantly tilting my head back. So I had a pair of shooting glasses made. The left lense is a single Rx for distance only, the right lense (dominate eye)is a single RX that is focused about 1.5" beyond the tip of my right index finger when simulating an iso grip - about where a front sight would be. This has worked great for me, and the best thing I could have done.

I load mine at 1.245 and a crimp of .470. Larger of a crimp and I get 3 pt jams. Longer OAL and the bullet nose tends to get hung up on the barrel hood when unload and show clear.

CocoBolo, Sounds like you've been talking to my wife !!! I knew you were a big user of WST and was hoping you would see this. I'm not using the Micrometer insert, the standard pistol insert. The index is spot on, otherwise I belive other problems would show up as powder on the plate, crunched cases, seating problems, etc. I usually use the Hornady One Shot to clean the press and dies. Occassionally I will clean out the powder drop with the One Shot, and follow up with a little powdered graphite run through it. I'll try it tonight and see how much of a charge it drops, clean it up with brake cleaner, and try again.

I've noticed lately that in between reloading sessions, I have to re-adjust the powder drop meter significantly to achieve the desired drop of WST. For my 45ACP loads, I normally use 4.8gr for 200gr SWC bullets. The die is a Hornady LNL with a Powder Funnel powder through expander. I've polished the inside of the Powder Funnel to minimize any powder hangups, and I have a baffle in the hopper. Everything appears to be clean with no internal bridging of powder. Last night I loaded a batch of MB LSWC and tonight when I checked the powder drop before loading another batch, I had to really screw in the meter as it was dropping about 5.1 gr. I checked the drop on my RCBS Loadmaster 1500 digital scale, and I double-checked it against my RCBS 505 beam scale, both indicated same drop. I normally use W231 for plated and jacketed bullets, and have never noticed this much of an adjustment needed between sessions. The loading bench is in the basement, which is pretty constant in temp and humidity. Is this normal for WST?

I have a Tucker Leather lined Silent Thunder holster, that is ok, but the draw is a little slow for USPA. I may use it just for IDPA CDP. I recently received a Blade-Tech Black Ice holster, that is a LOT quicker, and I really like this holster. The holster is made so that the gun can be angled forward in the draw before it completely clears the holster. My son has a Blade-Tech Sting Ray Belt holster for his, and the draw doesnt seem to be quite as quick with it. Both are great holsters.

I had a similar problem with two of my Kimbers, except the culprit was the thumb safety. The original thumb safety had a ridge on it that was giving me a sore and a callus on the inside of my thumb, just where the web starts right at the first thumb joint. It looks like yours has a very similar edge/ridge. I too thought the culprit on mine was the grip safety until I examined things closer. I replaced the thumb safeties with a Wilson Bullet Proof comp series safety that is very nicely scalloped. No more sore thumb. Hope this helps some.

I thought I would post a couple of pics with the DP Ice magwell, and DP's ETM basepads on my Kimber. Even at the front of the mag, the DP basepads still extend below the magwell, whereas the ETM basepads were level with the bottom of the magwell. Mag changes now seem to be as smooth as, well, ice.

I noticed that. I believe it's to help insure it fits in the box, correct? I thought I would try them first before I started experimenting with other methods of extending the basepads.

Should be. Also per Shooter's Connection web site. It better be, I just got mine yesterday.

Last night I put the DP Ice magwell (gap version) on my Kimber Gold Match II. Really speeds up reloads. Much better than with the S&A magwell I had on it. The ETM mag basepads are a little short for the Ice (actually level with the magwell), making it hard to consistently seat the mag during reloads. So I ordered the DP basepads for my ETM mags, which from what I've read should help. Install was super simple. DP makes some good stuff!

Hmmm, I've been using Berrys off and on for a few years now, and have not noticed them being less accurate that lead or moly coated bullets. I used them to shoot my last IDPA qualifier (indoor range) and they seemed to work quite well for me.

Welcome. I live a few miles east of you. We'll be shooting at Summit Point (SP Motorsports Park, WVa) tomorrow am. Come on out and check it out.

Welcome from another two wheeler from across the Potomac.

Get some original Chore Boys, the brass ones (use magnet to make sure they are brass - magnet wont attract brass), cut it into strips and wrap around an old bore brush. Should have it cleaned up pretty quickly.