GregJ

I'm very happy with my 1050 and AmmoBot.

I use both. Shockbottle is so much easier and quicker, but the EGW has tighter specs than the SB. Know your chamber and which gage better resembles your chamber tolerance.

True, sorta. With this there is no messing with it to get it to run right. Never saw a post about an RF100 that ran 100% right out of the box. With this, you can see every primer go in right. In a couple of min I can load up 6 tubes, and know none will be flipped. It is expensive, but it is solid and well built. http://www.markvii-loading.com/PAL-Primer-Filler_p_49.html

Just got mine, and all I can say is why the hell did I not get this sooner?!?!? It works like a dream. I hate to poke primers and my VP worked with CCI SP but it does not like WSP at all. The PAL did fine with the WSP. I chucked the tubes in my drill and took 400 wet/dry to the end so it would slide into the PAL better. If you have ever thought about getting one, do it. Buy once cry once. I didnt want to take a chance on the Hornady monstrosity, or getting another VP that doesnt work. YMMV

I just put RCBS rings on my dies (Forrester and EGW-U). I've have a LNL, and hate Hornady's rings. The nut flats are always in the wrong spot to be useful. The nut size is 30mm/ 1-3/16". I ordered a cheap wrench from Home Depot, delivered to the local store free, cost about $20. I plan on grinding the box end down a little so that it will fit. Should work nicely.

Helluva idea. I just used my mic to do sorta the same thing last night, but i like this much better. I have a Hornady bullet run-out gage, may adapt it to this use.

I started using the infamous bootleg case lube, one 12oz bottle of Heet (red bottle is 99% isopropol alcohol) and one oz of liquid lanolin in a spray bottle. Spray 2-3 shots into a large bag, dump a lot of brass in, roll brass around in bag, dump out into cardboard box lid to dry a few min, dump into case feeder, load and shoot. That's it.

Caspian frame and slide. Local guys build them. http://gravitastactical.com/

Just got my Ben Stoeger BOSS setup with Blade-Tech holster for 1911/SS. I really like the whole setup, but my 1911 doesnt seem to fit in the holster with a nice clean click. It kind of mushes in, so I am not very confident on the retention. I have played with the adjustment screws, but that hasnt helped. Anyone else run into this? I had been running a Blade-Tech Black Ice for years and it worked quite well. I had to replace it as it had cracked horizontally across the back. I may get another Black Ice if I cant get this one to fit right.

I did the case cut out, was never real confident with the results, and still had primers getting smeared with some crimped brass. Here is what has worked for me. I ordered a primer pocket GO-NOGO gauge (Ballistic Tools), took 8 or so crimped cases, sized/decapped them, then ran them through swagger until they all passed the gauge. So far so good.

It was indeed an OAL issue. After seating the 124 Zeros to 1.100 they dropped right into the Wilson and EGW gages, as well as my chamber.

Yes. The old primer never got punched out so it got smushed further in by the swagger.

That is exactly what mine is doing. I post what I did for it here <-- Linky Not sure this has fixed it yet, but it does seem better.

Continuing trials and tribulations of getting a new 1050 (with AmmoBot) to run. Last night I broke 3 decapping pins because brass gets on top of the shell plate, and gets smushed by the decapping pin/sizing die. Also aggravating is the shuttle will occasionally hang up and not extend out to feed a case into the shell plate. MeatPuppet was kind enough to answer a few questions, and suggest I get the SPR Services case feed fix plate, which is on the way. Hopefully this will help. In the mean time, I took a closer look as to why the shuttle was hanging up. It appears the case sitting on top of the shuttle hangs up on a slight angle on the shuttle. This angle has an edge sharp enough that a case can hang on it. In the first pic you can see the shiny spot where the cases have been riding the shuttle, as well as the horizontal angle. I took a jewelers file to smooth out the angle so it is more of a radius, and polish it up some. That seemed to help a lot. Tonight I will polish it some more, as my dremel options were limited and will be picking up more bits. If the problem still exits, next will be the Level 10 Derlin casefeed plunger .

I had done just this when I first set mine up, but I was getting an occasional smeared primer. I recently got a primer GO/NOGO gage from Ballistic Tools to verify crimped primer cases are adequately swagged. That seemed to help a lot with the occasional primer getting smeared because it failed to seat completely in a crimped case. Finding the sweet spot for the supporting rod is the trick. tks

Definitely!! I just got a note back from Jason/Ammobot, and since I was running it manually with the power off, he felt the motor was generating enough EMP that it was partially engaging itself. This sounds logical, and is probably true, I will verify tonight.

ROFL Damn new spewed my coffee on this!!! That would definitely get my attention!I When I was running some of my first rounds though my 1050/Ammobot (still learning), I had a primer go PFFFFFT. Not quite a regular detonation, but enough to give me papations!!! I can not image how badly I would mess myself if I had a chain fire. I have my swage adjust up pretty good for the occasional crimped primers (verified with GO-NOGO primer gage), and when I have had a still primed case make to the swagger (if the primer pin gets pushed up) it just gets smushed up even more into the pocket, and the press continues. Needless to say this can cause a mess, as well as several useless rounds. Not sure why mine doesnt stop on this.

Nice. Do you do any primer check for ringed primers? I just got some Squirrel Daddy pins. They are tough.

Very near Retread1911. 1. No change to reloading process, ammo goes into the bucket. 2. Practice, grab out of bucket and go. 3. Local Matches, grab out of bucket, run through Shockbottle gage. Failures go into separate container for next practice. 4. Major Matches, grab out of bucket, run through EGW gage. Failures go into separate container for next practice.

When cycling the 1050/Ammobot by hand empty/no brass, it feels rough, like there are spots where there is an interference of some sort. I have pulled the drive plate off, and the press cycles very smooth. I checked the alignment of the drive pate/handle with the sprocket on the jack shaft, as well as loosened the chain a smidge. This may have helped a little, but not much. This is empty, no brass on the shellpate. I know there will be pops from the MBF powder funnel coming off the case, as well as the expander, but this is when the press is empty. Anyone else run into this?

I know some of you with automated 1050s (AmmoBot, Mark7, etc) pre-process (decap & resize, not cleaning) your brass before reloading. I can see the benefits, in that if it helps to ensure a trouble-free reloading session, it might be worth it. I've had a couple of times when the decapping pin was not quite tight enough, and this caused a real mess, and is a PITA to clean up. I guess this alone might be worth it, I just hate handling brass more than I have to. Maybe after the learning curve flattens out, things will be better. Have you found it worthwhile? or not? EDIT: My question is primarily for pistol brass, especially 9mm.

I will look into the Case Pro. A friend came over to help and I think we got it figured. I needed to seat the Zeros to 1.10 and some how the EGW had backed out some.

I got an EGW-U die and still have several, like 10%, that still fail like this. I also went with a Redding Pro seating and Redding taper crimp die. This is driving me nutz.

I made a bunch of primer tubes from alum tubing that is available from McMaster-Carr. The second pic shows a lip I put on so that the tube fits into the primer magazine cap. Here is the info on the tubes for small and large primers. I have used these tubes on my LNL for a few years, and they work great. 89965K188 Multipurpose Aluminum Tubing, 5/16" OD, .183" ID, .065" Wall Thick, 3' Length 89965K472 Multipurpose Aluminum Tubing, 5/16" OD, .215" ID, .049" Wall Thickness, 3' Length

Pic of the Tray.