GregJ

This is a metal plate I made to set a pan on top of at the rear of the press. A lot of powder and the occasional primer finds it way back there, and I wanted to keep it off of the AB motor.

I used hook from a black rubber bungee, and an old die to wrap it around to get the right diameter, then made a loop for the tarp ball bungee to connect. I trimmed it to get rid of the ball and the excess length. The Mr. BF die doesnt need a lot to keep it secured, so far this has worked quite well. I know this is a common trick to get more down pressure on the MBF, but I have seen many different ways of securing the rubber band, thought I would share another way.

Here are a few "enhancements" I came up with that I felt have helped me. Thought I would share. The first pic is a support for the case and Mr. BulletFeeder. My 1050 also has an AmmoBot, so this provides some support since the press is raised up quite a bit, and the case feeder support was not in contact with the bench. I took a ceiling fan support box from Home Depot, and cut it down. The square tubing fits right into the support arm, and the lower bolt through the support arm works nicely to provide a stop. The second pic is a piece of strapping I bent and drilled a 1/2" hole to capture the case shuttle. This keeps cases from being loaded when I am single cycling a load, trying to clear it, etc.

True, they do not. I super glued a piece of washer on the frame where the primer punch hits, and that probably helped more than anything else in this regard.

So with the primer probe installed, how do you swage? Or do you separate all crimped brass?

That sounds like a great idea. Do you use a second tool head for processing the brass? Or do you just pull the dies? This is probably something I will setup for next winter.

Not sure if you are running into this same problem. I thought it was primers getting drawn back into the case, but it was the primer pin being too thick to fit into the flash hole. I had beveled and polished the pin, but that didnt help.

I have an EGW-U die on the way, as I expect that will resolve this and another issue as well. Cases that have been just sized drop into the gages just fine, no problem there. I really do not think there is an issue with the rim area as I can easily insert the round into the Wilson gage rim first, and it will drop in a bit, past the area that sticks up above the gage when checking it. Problem with checking the case if something feels unusual while reloading, I am trying to get the 1050 running as best near 100% because I have an AmmoBot too. So I need to make this thing as error-proof as I can. It just seems odd that the crimp can affect that area of the bullet. Now if I was severely over-crimping, or roll crimping, maybe this would be a resulting deformation. Since gages are unforgiving, this is the prime reason to use them. If they fit the gage, they will/should fit everything else I have. This is not just a rub by the gage. To get this mark, I am forcing the round as far into the gage as I can with my thumb, and then having to use the end of the marker to push the round back out. This is a hard interference point, which is keeping the rim above the gage. These rounds also tend to fail my Barstow barrel, but seem to pass my CZ barrel. My 1911 is my main comp gun. Tonight I will drop several bullets through the Wilson gage and see if any hang up, mark them, load them, and see if they are the culprits when gaged. Maybe it's just the occasional bad bullet???

No, but it does stop on a jam. What happens is the primer doesnt get punched out, so it gets smashed further into the cup by the swagger. Then the new primer gets cut in half, or squeezed enough that the primer slider doesnt fully retract, which will then cause a jam because the alignment pin hits the slider. Then it is a real PITA to clean up.

I have an EGW-U die on the way. I had good luck with it for my SS Major loads loading all brass. Could be out of spec brass or a fat pin, but when the AmmoBot is in gear, either one will cause a mess if not accounted for. Hopefully the EGW will take care of it.

While setting up my new 1050 and getting the bugs worked out, I have had several instances where the priming system got mucked up. At first I thought it was primers being pulled back into the case, or something I was doing. Tonight I think I found the cause. I came across two pieces of brass, left two on both pics, that the primer flash hole was too small for the Dillon primer punch. The primers are deformed because by the time I figured out what was going on, the new primer got jammed up. Lucky there was no detonation. Anyway, I compared the punch pin with the Dillon die and a Hornady die, and there is a significant difference in the diameter of the two, the Hornady pin is much thinner. The Hornady sizing die punched the primers out with no problem. The case on the right in both pics has a "standard" flash hole, and the Dillon punch pin fits in, but with the primers out it wont even come close to fitting in the other two. I know they look the same in the pics, they are not. Since this press is also setup for an AmmoBot, I am leaning towards keeping the Hornady sizing die, just for this issue. Or probably go with an EGW-U die.

Setting up my new Dillon 1050 with AmmoBot, and having a heck of time getting rounds to gage. Below are the specs: Zero 124g RN, 1.115 OAL, .3775 taper crimp, mixed headstamp brass. I am running the press manually until I get things ironed out. My gages are a Wilson cartridge gage, Shockbottle, and barrel from a CZ 75 SA Target (my 1911 with Barstow barrel is in the "shop"). For now, all the rounds are run through all 3 gages. The last batch of 100, all passed the Shockbottle and CZ barrel plunk test, but two failed the Wilson gage. The attached pic is one of them. The interference point is just above the case mouth. The rounds go all into the gage but the last few mm. Per Dillon's crimp calculator, the taper crimp I am using is medium to light (avg case wall thickness of .012 and .355 bullets). This has been driving me crazy, the results with the original Dillon dies were much worse. I pulled them and put in a Hornady sizing/decapping, Hornady seating, and Redding Taper Crimp die, I had lying around, which is what was used to load this particular batch. If the bullet was began crooked, I should see the mark on the case at the bottom of the bullet. Maybe just some bullets that are not quite in spec?

That is exactly what mine is doing, bullet rubs just before case mouth. As you stated found it by marking the bullet. Crimp is not heavy. Will try seating a little shorter, seating now at 1.125. Thanks!!

Working up loads on my new 1050, I am checking rounds with the Barstow barrel from my 9mm 1911, as well as a Wilson cartridge gage, and a Shockbottle. Problem is rounds that fail the chamber check or Wilson gage check, drop right in the Shockbottle. I dont think they make different version for 9mm. So which cartridge gage measures on the tighter side? EGW says they use actual chamber reamers and minimum SAAMI specs, as does DAA. But I really like my 45ACP Shockbottle, and how easy it is to check rounds. But so far the 9mm SB does not appear to be what i need.

I got a 9mm SB from Stoeger pro shop. Problem I am having is rounds that fail my Barstow barrel or Wilson gage drop right in and out of the SB. I believe this is the regular match version.

My OCD wouldnt let me do anything but. My digital caliper is the most often used tool on my bench. Maybe more info would be appropriate. I have been reloading for about 10 years. I have been shooting SS Major for the past 6+ years. When I started reloading for my Kimber GM, it needed a tight crimp before it would run reliably. I recently acquired a SS Minor, as well as a PCC (Sig MPX), so I need a butt-load of 9mm. So I got a 1050 with an AmmoBot. My bud (that builds my guns) wants to use my Dillon/AmmoBot, so since it has been years since I have loaded 9mm, and my data is old and not applicable to my new gun, I am trying to use his data. Since we shoot basically the same guns, and to minimize any tweaks between his reloading and mine. If I wind up cranking the crimp up a little, it probably wont be a big deal. I have confirmed that .370 is too much of a crimp from the 115 plated and Precision Delta 124 jacketed I have been running through to get the bugs worked out. Now that the setup is running pretty smooth, I will start loading up my good stuff, the Zero 124s.

I hear you guys and know what you are saying. The .370 comes from the guy that builds my guns, and is an M in Production. This crimp is with Zero jacketed 124s, and runs in all his single and double-stack guns, including his CZ Shadow. I will be loading some Zeros up this weekend and see how it goes.

I think I have this issue resolved. I talked to a bud (he builds my guns) and he has crimped his 9mm to .370, and it works well in all his guns. This, and re-adjusted the sizing die so that is kisses the shell plate seems to have been the fix. I was concerned about the die as the dies that first came with my LNL had a roll-crimp, and that caused me a lot of angst way back then.

I got mine on monday. Finally got it all working, adjusted, etc. Maybe some final tweaks and tuning before I start seriously cranking out rounds. One word of caution, make sure you remove the ratchet lever on the back of the 1050 before you start using the AmmoBot. Somehow I missed that little gem of information.

Talked to Dillon, the lip I see is never supposed to reached on this die. For semi-autos, the dies are supposed to be in fact taper crimp, for revolver rounds (e.g. 357Mag) the dies are supposed to be "accu-crimp". This came about because I was trying to fine tune my taper crimp, and felt like I might have been bumping into a roll crimp. I guess chalk this up to new to Dillon.

Just set up my new 1050 Super for 9mm. It appears the Dillon crimp die is not a true Taper Crimp die, as it appears to have the lip to provide a roll crimp. The web pages mentions a Taper Crimp and an Accu-Crimp die. I ran into this when I set up my LNL years ago, I was hoping Dillon would be different. However, there doesnt seem to be an option to specify which one. I will be calling Dillon this am to see, but was wondering if anyone else had run into this. TIA

Finally got a Maglula mag loader/unloader for my Sig MPX mags. This is the best thing since sliced bread. Loading the mags is no big deal, but unloading them is a PITA. This makes both uber easy. Highly, highly recommended for MPX mags. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/155974/maglula-magazine-loader-and-unloader-sig-mpx'

1. I shot a few rounds through a fellow competitors AR-9 this past summer (dont remember mfgr), and the difference in recoil was significant. I have had others tell me the same that have shot mine. 2. I hated the collapsible stock. Besides a less than comfortable cheek weld, the mechanism had enough slack in it that when I shouldered it was not solid and would move quite a bit. The Minimalist stock and adapter are rock solid.

Another vote for Case Feeder. The LNL AP is set up to handle the case feeder. As stated, just a few mods and it can run 100%.

Very little is out there for the MPX. I would like a bolt assist lever for one too.