slavex

Cerakote will wear pretty quick if you shoot it a lot, I'd be looking at Nitride or DLC

It depends on how the crack forms and how big a piece breaks off. If too big, the slide stop spring won't be held right and the gun will malfunction. If even bigger piece breaks off, the slide stop itself can be more easily broken, especially if the left side breaks.

man you must have worked that steel wool hard, the slides are Arcore (nitride) finish, and I've never seen someone remove it easily. It's possible yours was defective, which is what allowed it to rust, or it had exposure to something super nasty which caused it to rust and wrecked the Arcore treatment, the steel wool just made it worse.

No new handguns can come into Canada now. Our dictator introduced a law a few months back to ban all handgun transfers and when they saw how many were being sold and new ones being imported they then went around parliament and made a regulatory change to stop import permits. So, while CZ could replace the frame, if they got the old one back, and issued the exact same serial number instead of X-XXXX-1 (current procedure if you ask for the same serial number, they just had a -1 on the end), but not sure if he could get a permit to export and reimport the gun. If it was me, I'd get on CZ about it, make all the arrangements, fly to czech for a match with my pistol and come home with the new frame installed at the factory, but not everyone can do that.

where are you in Canada? I had mine done by Joseph Wu in Vancouver, but I believe Black Box Customs does them too. I would not keep shooting the gun with the crack until it's been milled, as the crack can spread to the point that a piece of the locking block can break off rendering the gun unusable in some cases. I would have it looked at by a decent smith to see if the crack has spread too far already or not.

Yes I had two of my older guns done. One after a crack showed on the right side.

@timmy75 and I mean this in the most polite way, man that is an ugly hole.... in your slide. The firing pin hole looks beat to crap, not that that would have anything to do with extraction or ejection. Your sear cage also looks worn, in weird areas, unless someone stoned the sides of it, but the ejector looks fine. But man for 50k that gun looks rough, I've got a lot more than that through almost every Shadow/Shadow 2 I own and only one or two of them look that worn (both well over 100k each), what kind of ammo are you shooting through them? As for the issue, I'd replace the extractor, extractor spring, and pin, and see what happens. I've seen guys with bent extractor pins that caused extraction issues, usually they reused a pin after a case failure/double charge, or similar incident, and the new extractor would bind up on it. An extra power extractor spring as others have mentioned would be a good plan too.

As one other has asked, what does your ejector look like?

Mine is about 6mm or so

The Springer Precision one is very nice, and you don't need to change your grips.

yeah I've been told that as well, but was told more often it had to do with one step of the firing pin safety machining, now seeing the pic above, I'm going to say I was wrong on which one to believe. Debris groove it is now!

it's for the firing pin safety like I said above, one pin design across multiple guns. you'll see aftermarket firing pins for the Shadow, TS, Czechmate, Shadow 2 etc that don't have the groove as it's an extra step for machining. But since CZ makes guns that need it, they just make one pin across the board. It's orientation in guns without firing pin blocks doesn't matter, and, if you want to play a game, put it in, in a specific way, and then fire 100 rounds and see if it's still facing the same, it probably won't be.

try removing the pretravel screw, if you have one. that dragging feel is what happens when it's screwed in too far and the spring gets impinged. I had to shorten all my screws so they wouldn't hit the spring and cause a near dead trigger after the first shot.

I believe the cut in the firing pin is for models with firing pin safeties. It's a part shared across multiple models of guns

I'd like to take 1/3 to a 1/2 off if possible.

Did the spring install, much nicer reset pressure now, and not noticeable on trigger press really. Also installed lighter mag catch spring. But still want to make the reset shorter.

Spring in the right spot? It's easy for the leg to slip into the wrong spot. As well, if you have a pretravel screw in it, you may need to shorten it, as it can bind on the spring leg and cause that very issue

Yes! Absolutely lol

Will be trying the DA trigger spring install tomorrow in my new Racing Green, I too wish for a more positive reset. I'd also like to reduce the reset difference, but, have zero idea how. I've got the overtravel adjusted perfect, but the reset is longer than of my DA/SA CZs by a a considerable amount.

Ahhh, okay, I thought it was something new and strange lol. I'm happy with my HAO rear sight, don't see the need for windage.

pics of the new sight!!!!!!!!!

Blue not red, unless you want to use a torch to take it out again

My point was, the number of cycles it takes for springs to get to a failure point, or even losing any meaningful poundage. Motorbike springs, or car springs, see more cycles in one day than pretty much any gun will see over its lifespan, probably 100 lifespans. Hence the reason they change them. Gun springs hardly get cycled at all. Perhaps the super keen dryfirer or a very high round count live-firer will see a measurable change, but 99 percent of the people, even competitive shooters, won't.

@rowdyb I'm lazy lol, and never bother with it. Only springs I've had break or need replacing are the older TRS and both light and regular firing pin springs. Recoil springs I've done occasionally, after the initial swap when new, mostly juts because someone asked me to try their brand of spring, not because it was needed. Properly made springs should be good for hundreds of thousands of cycles, many hundreds of thousands.

hammer springs should never actually wear out. I've run 11lb, 8lb, 9lb for years in my various guns and from new to retirement they don't vary more than a quarter of a pound when put on a scale.