slavex

love the one I got last year from Tanfo.

yeah mine have red grips on them. Much nicer. But no other red bits sadly.

11.5lb Cajun Gun Works hammer spring, comp hammer, 8lb recoil spring, CZ 1mm disco (new item from CZUB via Robin Sebo), super light firing pin spring from the Shadowmate guns (I think the same as the Orange Shadows might come with), 85C trigger, and that's it. When I'm shooting Steel Challenge I throw in a 8.5lb hammer spring and make sure I am using Federal primers.

I am running a DAA PDR Pro II for the Shadow 2. Love it's adjustability.

I think I have at least one spare set if not 2 or 3 sets of blue grips for the Shadow 2, will have to take a look this weekend

the price is exactly what was predicted by CZ last year

Cans of compressed air cost more than cans of brake cleaner and are smaller (at least up here in Canukistan).

I use non chlorinated brake cleaner too. just keep it away from FO sights. works great

All the frames are nitrided for protection, then some are poly coated after. Urban grey, black and potentially other colors too. I'll see if I can get more info next week from them at IWA.

The frames are all nitrided, at least as of my last talk with the factory, then poly over top. I agree tons of people send out guns to get nitrided and get them back looking good. But having seen my buddies rifle actions and talked to the owner of the company doing the nitriding, I'm going to assume he knows what he's talking about.

Sorry that was written poorly, the one in the center, the poly one, feel like a regular Shadow frame, the two outside ones are much smoother feeling.

So I think I have a theory on why Poly overtop of Nitride. A friend's company is doing their actions with Nitride and are having a ton of problems with it. Until their latest batch from the new machine shop, the Nitriding was showing up like polka dots on the actions. Any minute change in surface composition changes color slightly differently during nitriding. So, according to the finisher, if the feed rate caused a spot to heat differently enough during machine (bad tools, sudden loss of coolant etc) it would be obvious once N was applied. Same probably could happen with the frames on the 2s. Especially given they are cast first then machined, if there are any minor little impurities, that normally wouldn't be visible to the naked eye, they will show up in the Nitriding. Nothing mechanically wrong, pass all QC, but cosmetically not so great. But someone has to go through and sort that. For my buddies company, any actions that made it through cost $100 more than the ones they culled out and Cerakoated as they know their actions are preferred in pure Nitride coating. I'd assume the same applies with the CZ frames, but could be speaking from my ass on it. I have personally witnessed it with my friends rifles though. Down below are my two Shadow 2s on either side of my buddies Shadow 2. Mine are both pure Arcore (Nitride) and his is poly. We wiped all three down with a couple cloths. Now the flash made the one on the right shiny looking, they aren't . Mine has a much smoother feeling to it than the gun in the center, it feels like any other Shadow frame. Mine are just smooth metal that is nice and black.

next class I'll pics of my Arcore ones beside the Polycoat ones my students have. There is a difference. you can feel it more than you can see it though. The Poly is over the Arcore treatment. So yes, they are all nitrided/arcore.

the internal parts on the 2 things like the sear cage, hammer, sear and trigger bar are interchangeable, but are also slightly different, especially the trigger bar and sear cage. Trigger is also a new design, sort of a hybrid 85C and Shadow trigger (don't like it myself). The tolerances on all the parts in the 2 are supposed to be held to a tighter amount, although I've already a few iffy things like a sear cage and disco that were dramatically oversized and held mags in place. Some work with a stone, then a belt once I got annoyed, and then back to a stone, fixed that. As above, slidestops and safeties are not interchangeable. Although someone said a TS one might be with a 2, never tried. Springs are all good to go from a 2 to a Shadow and back. You can also swap in a Comp Hammer if you like, but as always will likely need to fit the sear to the safeties. Some of the newer guns have a much better SA than the first few batches so it might not be necessary to change.

Wonder if that new two piece case will run through this, with the custom dies?

The MecGar can hang up in regular CZ's but not the Shadow 2 as they've changed the mag catch button significantly. But for a regular CZ it's a 5 minute fix to bend the mag catch spring. The mags last a lot longer. My practice mags are used almost exclusively on an indoor range with concrete floors, I have had to tweak the lips maybe 5 or 6 times in 3 years of running them. The same 8 mags were also my match mags the first season I ran them, so right now somewhere around 250,000 rounds through those 8 mags, and in Canada we can only have 10 in the mag, so lots and lots of mag changes with the mags slamming into the floor. To fix the lips I just take another mag and smash the lips together a tad until it looks right. I've replaced the springs 4 times as well. 1 mag also survived a nice case head separation which slightly mangled the front of the mag and wrecked the follower. A leatherman to bend the front tang and a new follower and all was good. MecGar also makes a dented/pinned version in 10 round for places that require that (I pinned my 17/19 mags myself before those became available). The regular CZ mags with the square cut on the top at the back crack pretty quickly I find, especially with the concrete floors, I have yet to crack the new MG ones. In all honesty I don't know why anyone would use any other mag.

17 round Mecgar and their +2 baseplates. Simply the best mag going. It's the same mag that CZ ships with the 2. The Nickle/Chrome (whatever it is) being the best of the two. They are made with a slightly thicker metal, and have a few upgrades to their design, the rear, top of the mag has a rounded cut now instead of a square cut, where the slide goes through to strip the round from the mag. As well at the top front the mag has a lip that sticks up to stop the next round from partially feeding forward as the top round goes into battery. This only becomes an issue during a mag change. As for them not falling out of regular Shadows, that is a known issue and easily fixed. Bend the mag catch spring so that the mag catch can't go into the pistol too far, binding the mag in place.

I use the 250x.037 in my Chapman kit. it fits exactly to the edge of the screw, the 230 is a bit smaller

first off, make sure you have a screwdriver blade that is the right size. I use a Chapman Manufacturing blade, and use the mini ratchet so I can apply downward force while breaking the screw free. you can also try putting your screwdriver in the vice and putting the frame on top of it and pushing down while turning it (the right way!).

Lol, I live in a very small town too, in Canada even.

I have a Stock II and a Shadow 2, much prefer the Shadow 2 over it, hell I preferred the Shadow over it. Main thing for me is ergos and trigger dynamics, nothing touches the Shadow design and setup in my opinion. The Shadow 2 is just a refinement of that.

now that the USA is also getting Polycoat guns the numbers could go up, but when it was just Nitride guns I think the 100 guns a month thing was fairly accurate.

I suppose some of the opening up of groups on my first gun might be from needing to move the rear sight after the gun chewed through 150,000+ rounds, never thought of that

My feeling is if the gun isn't shooting center for windage, with the sight centered in the slide, there is something wrong with the gun. Elevation needs to be changed for distance or different loads/weights, but windage should never change. So even if you do need to adjust something, it's a one time adjustment. My guns the sights were too far right, only a smidge, but enough to annoy me. Now they are centered and they shoot center, so I am happy.

There are fully adjustable sights for the Shadow and Shadow 2, but I find them a waste of time. For my 2s I recentered all my sights as they were all slightly too far right. I used the big MGW sight tool and some cursing (they are really tight) to move them past center to the left, and then back to where I wanted them. Guns shoot perfect now. As far as I know they are not using any kind of thread locker on the sights themselves and definitely not on the sight screws as almost everyone I've seen needs threadlocker put on the screws as they are vibrating out while shooting, the sight is so tight it's not going to move though. As for damaging the paint on the slide with heat, it's not painted, it's nitrided, not sure how much heat you'd need to use to damage or change the look of it. Probably still best to not overdue it though.