slavex

If you don't mind losing the ability to remove a case at the bulletfeed/powdercheck position, run the zap straps all the way from after the powder station to the seat/feed station, also, regardless of leaving it the way you set it up, or making it the way I suggested, put a cut piece of strap in between the strap and the frame of the 1050, on the inside edge. This makes it even tighter and less likely to allow a case to wobble. This is for 9mm too, not sure how that would work with other calibres.

I've run into one Shadow 2 that had issues with the MecGar mags binding on the sear cage as well, I'd forgot about that. Not all mags, just 2 or 3 of them, which all worked fine in my gun. We ended up looking at the cage, and saw that it was much thicker at the front than any other cage we looked at. Onto the belt sander it went, took it down to the same dimensions and problem solved. Was a simple case of tolerance stacking I guess, perhaps you've run into the same thing.

both the nickel plated and black/blue MecGar mags are the same size, and are slightly larger than the original CZ mags, but CZ is now using the MecGar as OEM and for good reason, they are a tremendously better mag. Slightly thicker metal, better construction, better design of the feed lips, everything about them is better. In a Shadow 2 they are usually the mag the gun comes with. It's only the old style mag catch, without the bent spring, that is an issue.

called today, new one on the way. yay

the MBF works much much better than the Hornady one, I've yet to meet someone who is happy with the Hornady feeder.

just had this exact same break occur on Tuesday night to a new piece I got last year after having the inner body crack on another, really really well used and old measure.

how does filing that down help? I've been getting a rash of cases hanging up lately, no idea what has changed.

abb1 has it nailed, the old style mag catch can be overpressed and catches the mag, bend the leg of the spring and you're good to go.

This is exactly what happened to me tonight.

usually, but not always, you can simply turn the right hand safety straight up, 90 degrees to the frame and slide it into place without disturbing the detent, then carefully rotate it down/forward.

yeah my hand dwarfs hers, but she runs that gun better than I can. The gun is a signature series gun, just fancy finish and engraving, no special reworking of internals.

really the pins only clean the inside of the case. The exterior is mostly done by the other cases in the tumbler. Yes of course the pins will do some, but removing them won't make a detectable difference (or didn't with me at least)

looking forward to it!!

I have no idea why the 2s are cracking, but this has happened in regular Shadows as well as Tanfos, and other CZ clones, even in other models of CZs apparently, which is why this cut exists in some of those other models.

if you're buying one now, take the slide off and check, lots of ones coming in don't have the cuts. I've seen shops get a shipment that was mixed, next shipment had old style, etc.

any of the sensors in particular? I've got the decap sensor and primer level sensor as well as swage

for 9mm and 40 the gauge will catch the cracked brass no problem at all

doesn't cost me any time to deprime, my machine is automated, I just sit there twiddling my thumbs for a large portion of the loading process. And before I retired I'd pull bullets and deprime em at work.

not a crack, just schmoo on the metal

I've had the powder measure body break before, once. I figure after a few million rounds on that machine it was acceptable

I am a huge advocate of the shockbuffs from CZ, I use the thick ones and they do seem to last forever. I'd have to look through my notes to see when I last changed one.

cool dude, I'm at 70,000ish through my two arcore 2s with nary an issue, and I use the shockbuffs, although I don't think they have any impact on this area at all.

you have to take the top pin out of you want to take out the mag brake (that's what that piece is still called) and you need to take it out if you want to take out the mainspring plug (which also has a pin through it)

why is it the wrong solution? Explain. What is the right solution? Again, explain

I don't see how you think these changes will somehow weaken the area, according to everyone I've talked to who has experience with designs like this, it should in fact totally solve the cracking issue. An issue that only showed up in a specific batch of firearms from what I've been able to learn. This change also already exists in other CZ products, and hasn't been an issue there. As well, Tanfoglio suffers from the same issue occasionally, so it's not like it's a CZ only thing. As for Glocks, I've seen them fail at under 1000 rounds, I personally own 1 that failed at 2500 and had to be replaced (G17 Gen III). I've got Shadows with well over 100k rounds through them that are still shooting just fine. A gun is a mechanical device and those things fail sometimes. For the vast majority of people there will be no issue with their existing Shadow 2s, if there is, then CZ will fix it through their warranty services.