2ndSupporter

Awesome scoop!! Thanks all!!! I am gonna go with the spring elimination just because lol.. I am running all Redding dies and a mbf expander with 147rn extremes, minor. Redding decapper I think is a must, you can swap out broken pins effortlessly. No complaints or issues, just looking to stay ahead of the curve. Loading minor not having topple issues so I am not gonna mess with the plate or bearing kit but I do have them on hand. One issue I did come across was my primer seating adjustment was backing itself out I imagine from vibration. I was able to put an allen key in it, wedge it against the decapper die and zip tie it to the case feed ramp that mounts to the turret. This waw the primer depth screw cannot move in either direction. I am gonna go with the 1911 spring on the case shuttle mod. I do get the occasional failure to insert for some reason. I agree the bullet sensor is a Must. Split cases or Makarov cases generally dont result in a bullet drop so get caught there. I used to use a egw U die before going to the 1050 auto/ I may go back to it because I am convinced I had a much lower reject rate when chamber gauging with it, although my reject rate isnt out of control but I think it was lower on my 650 with the U die. When someone comes up with a primer loading system like on the evolution I would be all about buying that. Even with the tube filler, thats my least favorite part still..

Loving my Mark 7 autodrive 1050 I load 9mm minor only at 2100rnds an hour Runs like a top I only have 15k rounds and did my first cleaning on my setup. I have a FFB shellplate havent installed it yet. Loading minor, not having tipping bullets I dont wanna fix a problem I dont have, so havent swapped shell plates yet. I installed the Level 10 cam and case feed roller. Level 10 makes a bunch of interesting stuff as I am sure other companies do. They have a larger spring and it appears a spring elimination kit. Anyone have any experience with either with a Mark 7? Is this worth doing? Anyone with more experience with a Mark 7 recommend and after market parts that should be used when running the 1050 with an auto drive at the rate the autodrives run? Basically looking to replace parts before they will be in issue. Thanks in advance

Hey All with the new rule changes who is doing it? I run Shadows and have the middle finger middle joint callus to prove it. I would love to see some pictures of ones that are done cause thats in my future for sure. Thanks in advance

This is now production legal now? Trigger guard modification? I didn't hear about that.

I am happy to report this sage is over with good results. Two coils off the mag spring a slight trim of the follower at the rear and no matter how hard you seat the mag the gun will not come out of battery. I figure the top round hitting the bottom of the slide and causing friction after doing so is what was knocking it out of battery. Why Smith would use the same spring in a 10 as a 17 makes little sense but life is good again.

Goes to show ya the hellish state I'm in

@TacticalReload I never realized it till I diagnosis the problem. With one chambered and 10 in the mag put it in with force and you won't see it but will kinda feel something going on in the top end. It's going out than back in just a tad, enough so that if it hangs up on the way back in you'll get either a high light strike or no strike at all. These are my findings anyway. From what I found in research the 10 and 19s use the same spring. I'd imagine the 19s have less pressure due to almost double the room in the mag. Cutting out 2 coils seems to have done the trick for me. Will know for absolute certainly tomm night and have a match Saturday which will really work it out.

I tested a 10round mag today with 2 loops cut off the mag spring. No issues with feeding, slide lock or reloading/battery issues. It still takes a good deal of pressure to get the 10th round in, so no way getting an 11th round in there is possible. In my state 11 rounds would get you the electric chair. I believe I found my fix. Hi Vlad, I shoot with you and will be at your club Saturday, I surely intended to talk to you about this when I saw you. I tested a friends mp last night as well. When a full 10rnd mag is inserted with force and a round chambered already, the slide actually moves slightly out of battery and than back into battery. You can't see it, but if you try hard you can feel it. I was kinda surprised too. The excessive mag spring pressure I have is creating drag from the top round making contact with the center portion of the underside of the slide. I have gone over the gun from top to bottom, blocks, roll pins all good to go, swapped mag releases, changed ejector, removed and cleaned extractor, all kinds of new springs and weights, from factory setups to after market, factory and KKM barrels, and 3 different guide rods in searching for the solution. I believe I am back to 100% with 2 coils out of the mag springs. I will be cutting down 3 more mags tomm and test them all extensively on Thursday.

testing a mag spring with two coils cut out it seems to be AOK. One coil wasn't enough. The 10th round still goes in quite tight and no chance of accidentally getting an 11th in. Hand cycling seems fine both with feeding and lock out. The proof of course will be in live fire. Should have the last bit of testing done soon.

More testing results. The rounds are Definately making contact with the bottom of the slide, slowing it down because when a mag is inserted the slide moves Out than back Into battery. I am assuming Everyone's MP moves out than back into battery on a reload, Right?? If I slam a full mag in 10 times the brass actually gets flattened. I shot a small match tonight and only put 9 rounds in my mags (10 round cap) and had zero issues. I came home and cut 2 coils out of a magazine and I can insert a full mag now and not knock it out of battery. I don't want to cut my mag springs down if I don't have to. Could the magazines be over inserting? What prevents a magazine from over inserting on this gun? I am using 147gr Berrys RN jacketed .356 diameter and have the same issue with 147 SnS FP Lead .356

More findings Unfortunately I live in a communist state and we can only be trusted with 10rounds. If I strip out a round using 9 the slide will not finish off out of battery. So it's magazine spring tension that is causing this. If I am using the same magazines as I did last season without this issue, how is this turning up now? What could have worn that I need to change? Surely the magazine spring tension should be decreasing with age. Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Ok still No Luck here!! Went with the apex striker spring and both the factory and a 15lb recoil spring with an empty magazine it moves in and out of battery but stays in battery in the end. With a full magazine it comes out of battery and most of the time does not go back into battery. If I am a little more gentle it will wind up in battery. So one may summise it's the mag spring tension. However the mags aren't new, and this is a new problem. Why would the slide move at all with a full or empty magazine? Wouldn't that be a defect in design?? I installed the apex kit last year so I have that new USB. I see the link to timing discussions but would this be a timing issue really? Or would the USB come into play at all being this is caused from a magazine insertion? I am really pretty frustrated here. There must be a solution for this.

Awesome Dave!! I'm on that. I already use Federal 100 primers, I addressed that issue last year when I did the trigger kit, cci are too hard for this gun. Speaking about trigger bar, first what is the USB? How do I test usb contact? My trigger bar moves right when it's pulled the front flat corner rubs ever so slightly on the frame, I am not sure if that is normal, I do put a drop of oil there, doesnt seem to make a difference. I will definitely do a polish job to those areas as well. Keep in mind I ran 10k rounds last year and didn't have this problem.

Not the Mag release. Swapped it out. Still feel it move in and out of battery with an empty mag but it goes back into battery with factory 17lb and a 15 and solid Rod. Full mag will not allow it back into battery fully. What's the deal???

Just ran that test. Round chambered, into battery, empty mag reload it does not come out of battery. Now that I am aware of it I can actually feel the slide move when I seat the magazine but it winds up I'm battery. The mags I am using are well used. I have this issue with my older mags as well as new mags. I am assuming you are going to say mag spring tension but it happens with well worn in mags. Is it normal to actually feel the slide move out of and back into battery with an empty mag reload? The fact that this is an issue this season and not last leads me to believe something wore. How about mag release?? I have a feeling we are getting close to the solution. Thanks Please keep the feedback coming!!