slavex

nah I was just being a smartass, I am sitting here waiting and waiting for one, and hope it comes out sooner than later

in 2025

@quiller thanks for the video, I would bet some of the scraping is the toolhead spring, I don't have that on my Revo, and forgot you'd have that. Your index looks solid, no need to tune that. So I'd put some grease on the spring and some machine oil on the rear guide rod and the main ram. Also make sure you've greased the crank and oiled the internal guide rod too.

@quiller My goto on crimp is that I don't want to see any marks on a pulled bullet. The crimp is really just supposed to take out the bell, not actually crimp like you would on a revolver round (I'm assuming you're running semi auto bullets). So on a new setup it's just slowly adjusting the crimp until I see a mark on the bullet and then back it off a little bit until no indent. Over flaring can cause all sorts of problems, including over stressing the cases which would reduce the number of times you can reload them. If you're constantly picking your own brass that can come into play. I've gotten to know my Revolution intimately, from having to remove and drill and tap a new setscrew for the top pin on the crank, pulling the motor to do so, swapping top plates back and forth (the part of the press the shellplate sits on), and all the adjustments for index etc, to replacing fuses and wires inside the console (all my fault). I think I've got a good handle on it now, but Tom, Misty and Anthony regularly surprise me with input on things I'd never even noticed or thought about.

@quiller can you post video of your machine empty and pulling the handle a dozen or so times so we can see the indexing? The scraping you're feeling could be one of the alignment pins rubbing on the shellplate as the toolhead comes down. Another thing you could check is to remove the toolhead and pull the handle through a full stroke (being sure that the swage rod doesn't hit the underside of the shellplate if it doesn't index enough) and seeing if you feel any scraping then. If you do I would make sure the main ram is lubed, I lube it with machine oil, just a small amount, everytime I sit down at my Revolution, same goes for the guide rod and bushing at the back. Cases not fitting in the gauge properly after loading could be because that gauge is made a little shorter than some specs. And easy way to tell is to simply seat a bullet deeper and see. I load 147gr to 1.11" OAL, 124gr too. Another test would be to run a case through and not seat a bullet, but let it go through the crimp station, then see if it goes into the gauge correctly. If it does than it is for sure OAL. Some gauges are tighter in tolerance than others. The ultimate test is a plunk test in your gun's barrel. If it fits in there and fits your mags, then all is good.

@Jim Watson If I had my way I'd only use Federal all the time, but supply up here can be a bitch and I have to take what my sponsors give me. I keep the Federals for matches, next on the list would be CCI, and then S&B and lastly the Ginex, even though they are reliable, I don't trust them 100% yet

@Jim Watson using Ginex primers, softest primers I've ever used. It doesn't mean they are necessarily easier to ignite than Federal (I'd say they are about the same), but the metal of them is much softer. If I have an upside down one I have about a 30 percent chance of knocking it out successfully, most times it either distorts so much that the anvil and priming compound fall out and it gets a huge dimple in the face. Sometimes the decapping pin actually penetrates the primer and punches out all that stuff too. Super soft metal.

I've run the Primer Pro with Winchester small rifle (all I could source up here right now) for a buddies Major ammo. Those are some filthy primers. Never really noticed that before. I did a test with 300 of them in my Pledged machine, they ran fine. But they did leave debris in the machine, more than even the cheap Chinese primers I use for some practice ammo. But the next batch of S&B I ran through went fine as did the Ginex and Federal for my next batches. I've passed 70,000 primers run through this machine. I had 2 upside down Ginex the other day, but again I had loaded some into the top of a tube by hand and could have screwed that up as I was more focused on the jam I had in the 1050. The plastic still isn't showing any wear or tear.

@Tanfastic nice dude, I'm the same now.

yeah if you're never going to see crimped cases you could set the swage sensor up to detect primers that didn't leave the case, and not put too much stress on your shell plate. All my brass is crimped, at least my match brass, so need to swage.

great video on that primer flip. Interesting. I don't use the spring powered one on my Revo, it's on the 1050 for processing. I notice the shell plate is getting moved down before the hold down die is really in place, what is causing that?

I also had media up in the shims too, made for upside down bullets which usually causes double feeds too

I recently had a bunch of double drops happening and I have two springs on mine to pull the dropper back into place. Took it apart and discovered it had some sort of media built up in it. I'm guessing tumbling media from the bullet manufacture that somehow made it down into the dropper

that would be quite the ballistic arc lol

just like buying a progressive press a bullet feeder will end up costing you more money. You'll load more, in a shorter period of time. So, take that into consideration. If you are able to shoot more, it will definitely cost you more in the long run, but, you'll be shooting more, so....

@DD78 I don't need to undo the screws to clean or lube the PP, I just use a Q-tip to go into each slot and to the do the ramp and a cloth to wipe inside of the bowl/drum. So I can't speak to the durability of the holes with the screws being constantly removed and installed.

the durability question isn't one I'm worried about. I'm north of 50,000 primers run through this machine now and other than some accumulated grime from dirty primers nothing is wearing out or even showing signs of wear. The plastic looks the same now as it did out of the box.

how many threads and comments are there on tuning the RF100? lots. I don't see any of them being as obnoxious as the ones directed at this product. My RF100 sits on my bench gathering dust, I used it for years, constantly having to mess with it to get it to work somewhat okay, but it absolutely wouldn't run Federals or CCI after awhile, no idea what changed, I'd get 6 or 7 upside down primers a 100. Ended up if I was loading match ammo, I'd use my modified Lee hand priming unit made to hold a DIllon tube, and a vibratory tumbler to make it load the tubes. 12 seconds a tube (once all primers flipped), but that meant I still had to futz about and do only that. Then I got the FA tube filler as I got rid of the vibratory tumblers, and it works mostly, but it also requires tuning, cleaning and quite often it jams depending on the primers used, and again, I have to spend time only loading tubes. Now I have the PP and since hitting it with Pledge twice, it runs tickity boo. I had one upside down primer yesterday, a Ginex one, and I've loaded 42,000 rounds since getting it. I'm not even sure that upside down primer is the fault of the PP, as I had some issues with the primer slide on the 1050 and it could have been flipped while I was messing about with that, or when I put the few primes I pulled out of the plate into a tube, I might have not done it right by hand. The plastic hammer is showing no wear that I can see, nor do the teeth on the drum that activate it.

the only time I've had the clutch kick in for stuff is when cases don't feed right into the shellplate, there is debris in the case and the decapping rod contacts it, or, and this is my favorite, when the decapping pin came loose on my MA die and started trying to open the flash hole up a ton due to it hitting the taper on the pin.

the torque sensor detects when the shellplate won't index due to something getting stuck, the clutch sensor can detect something stopping the toolhead from completing it's downstroke, but I've not found primers in a case at the swage station would trip that, they'd just crushed by the swage, and that was on a zero clutch setting on both my machines.

I swapped out my FF plate, could not get it work with my 1050 at all.

how will the torque sensor detect a stuck primer?

back in the early 90s I had a flood at my old house, 100,000 primers were submerged for 2 days in pool water (above ground pool burst and decided my basement room was the best place to relocate to). There was no way I was gonna just throw out that many primers, so I laid them all out and dried them all under a fan. The only ones that didn't work were the ones that had had the priming compound washed out of them, about 1,000 of the first 5,000 that I loaded. It was a frustrating time messing around with that crap. I didn't get to shoot all 100,000 of the primers as a second flood, this time dirty ditch water, and that destroyed the remaining primers, though I did dry them and try a number of them. The primers were completely coated in mud and crap and rinsing them just washed out the compound. So, a little silicone lube doesn't freak me out in the least, but I can understand the reluctance to trust the lube to not contaminate things. I would imagine a number of people are testing that as we speak.

Pretty much any gun will do it, if you hold it at the right angle. It's a simple physics example really. The slide is held in place by the recoil spring, if when you insert a mag in with force, you move the frame up and forward in space, the slide will attempt to stay in the same spot, compressing the recoil spring, once the movement stops and/or the spring is compressed far enough the slide catch spring releases the catch, allowing the spring to send the slide forward at the end of the moment. Now, depending on how heavy your recoil spring is, the angle you're at, how much of a bump you give the gun, how the slide and slide catch interface is (rough, sharp angles engaging, smooth, rounded edges etc) will dictate the guns reaction.

thanks!