lumpygravy

Placing an Atlanta Arms order today. Hope it's uneventful.

Before this thread gets side tracked on the whole CA thing, I recall Mr. Natale, in a separate thread, expressed his reasoning for his choice. As a potential CA customer, I don't agree with his choice, but I respect it. If I ever move to another state (with which he does business), Gary will get a call from me for some future work. So let's see more pics of his great work. I'd love to read a range report update after a few thou are sent down range from this blaster.

Another vote for SS. It sounds like you have everything youu need gear wise. I'd echo the comment about ensuring any mods done to your gun are compliant with the current rule set i.e. fits in the box, weight, etc... Some may say that the need to reload every time you move can be distracting for a newb. Some say reloading is a fundmental skill that you'll need regardless of division. I say reloading is part of the fun and one piece of the SS game that I really enjoy. Good luck!

To paraphrase Gary Bussey from the movie "Soldier": "When you want to insert a DAA belt into a DAA mounting bracket, you don't do anything fancy or glamorous. Just get a rubber mallet and pound the son-of-a- b!tch until it's in." That's what I did....

I think it would be prudent for 818 to send a query to Amidon for an opinion on the HP cut. I think one is as cosmetic as front serrations but that's only my opinion. I didn't see the trough you mention. Were you referring to 818's pics? I only saw a flat top which is allowed (as are tri-tops) and normal serrations. I've seen an actual trough milled into the top of a slide using a ball end mill on limited guns.

Sorry for the delay. Here are the pics of the extensions made with fuel hose and longer screws. BT w/ gun Side view I did this first with the DAA holster another view I used fuel hose because that's what DAA used for their holster. As you can see, the extensions add about an inch offset. Longer screws would provide more offset up to the legal limitation. Figure out how much offset you want/need get the screws, a foot worth of fuel hose and cut and fit until you have what you want. All in, it's less than $5 in parts.

That may have been me, but I doubt I'm the only one who has made this mod. I used semi-rigid 1/2" fuel hose from the local hardware store and longer screws. Other guys have used a block of wood with holes drilled to fit the mounting bracket. The short is ~1" screws to replace the stock screws and 1/2" fuel hose cut to ~3/4" pieces as spacers. I'm home sick today so I'll try and get some pics.

Honestly, I never thought about an HP cut nor do I recall anyone asking about it as it may relate to SS rules. Good question. I'm guessing the HP cut will fall under: 18. Permitted modifications are those of a cosmetic nature (e.g. custom grip panels, scrimshaw or similar surface engravings, checkering or serrations etc.), replacement single or ambidextrous thumb safeties, and any open sights (which may be embedded into the slide). Specifically, the "cosmetic" part. Nice piece BTW....

Thanks for the thread resurection - I was getting strange looks from co-workers who were wondering what I was laughing about. Glad I'm not the only one who carries a spare pair in the pants leg....

Nope. FTE...

I know some guys whose feet could also use a little man-scaping...

You said "used to..." Not trying to be a wise-ass (though some say I'm a natural) but did you actually fix it the first time? Everytime I have a FTE it is because I did not fully inspect and plan the stage during the walkthrough. Most of the time it happens at a practice where there is no WSB and the stage is someone's on-the-fly creation. It does happen at club/local matches where I'm near the top of the order - not first - just near enough that I don't have quite enough prep time to get everything programmed.

The more you do it - move safely with a loaded gun - the more comfortable you will feel. It takes practice to develop muzzle awareness and safe handling skills and dryfire will defintely help. If appropriate for your neighborhood (adequate privacy) and you have the room to setup something in the back, do it. Who said dry fire has to be indoors? A couple of 2x4s or lengths of 2" PVC make for great fault lines and are easy to move around to simulate all sorts of different scenarios.

Hey! That's an insult to tripe! I like beef tripe and comparing that abomination of a "movie" to tripe and the wonderful dishes that can be prepared using it as the main ingredient is well, abominable!!!

Which mag carriers did you get? I run a DAA belt which is probably thicker than the CR belt with CR double carriers. I modified (read hacked) the carrier belt brackets so that they mount via a fore/back plate secured with screws - no threading on to the belt.

I'm sure there's something better than fuel hose, but I got the idea from my DAA PDR holster. That's what they used. Since the segments are so short, it is actually quite rigid. What's nice about the hose is that there's just enough resilience that it helps keep the screws tight when you crank'em down.

The other point to clarify is whether or not the gun has a poly or steel grip. My old STI poly grip, SDC, bull barrel, tungsten FLGR was ~36oz. My SV steel grip, LDC, bull barrel SS FLGR is ~44oz Both 5" guns.

I've not done this for those mag carriers, but I suspect that if you are willing to replace the mounting screws with longer screws of the same thread, you could use a short lengths of fuel hose as spacers. Fuel hose is somewhat rigid or rigid enough, cheap and usually available at your local hardware store. I have used fuel hose for extending the position of my DAA PDR and BT holsters out and away from the belt. The factory screws were ~1/4" and I replaced them with 1" screws using 1/2" diameter fuel hose cut to ~3/4" lengths. If I recall the Safariland mag carriers, they are attached to the mounting bracket with brass screws and barrel nuts. Bring the a screw and a barrel nut to the hardware and store to find screws that are longer, but have the same head size and thread pitch. Get enough fuel hose to make extensions and you should be in business.

Not as often as I'd like, but yes this has happened to me a few times and not just while shooting. There's likely a thread or two in the Mental Conditioning sub-fo about shooting without expectations and the freedom of the mind that ensues. I'm sure others can explain it more clearly than I, but for me, when this happens and I truly have no expectations (rather than just telling myself to have none), there is a clarity of vision and precision of movement that unfortunately, I cannot repeat on demand.

That's a sweet SS blaster May I ask who did the hard chrome? and I can't quite tell fromthe pics, but did you chrome the hammer too?

I run CMCs and I've actually never changed the springs. Infrequently, I have one hang up but it's always operator error Can you duplicate the problem with dummy rounds i.e. load 3-4 dummies, cycle the slide once or twice and then try dropping the mag? If the problem is repeatable, I'd back up to the last change which was the magazine springs. Put the original springs back in and see if the problem persists. Why did you decide to change the springs in the first place?

Is the NIB EB gs that I have from the 90's worth more than the ~$25 I paid for it?

What a co-inky-dink. I was considering your shop for the CeraKote or Ionbond ! I was sure that the sights would have to be removed regardless of finish, but would you recommend coating the sights instead of bluing? So far, I'm coming to the conclusion that while a coating may be harder, I can easily touch up bluing but not the coating.

Thanks for the pics. Those might be interesting. I'm guessing that the internal leaf spring you mention is for retention? to hold the mag tight in the carrier? and that cutting is the only way to adjust the tension?

I'd love to see a pic of your "chopped" version...