lumpygravy

CR Speed vs. Racers: same price point, both ambi, both plastic. Different tensioning method: pinch screw (CR) vs. leaf spring (DAA). Racers can be mounted at 90 degrees but you have to drill an access hole to place and secure the mounting screw. CR speeds are not intended for 90 degree mounting but someone with a little creativity could probably figure something out. RMs are all of the Racers and more. Aluminum body, bullet proof, pre-drilled for 90 degree mounting, ball joint mount. I got the RMs before the Racers were marketed or available. I don't regret the purchase, but if they were initially available at the same time, I probably would have bought the Racers.

Did you got to DAA.biz (euro site) or CEDDAA.com (US site)? The RM and the Racer use the same locking mechanism and once the gun is holstered and the lock engaged, both will hold the gun equally securely. I once tried to draw my gun (RM) and accidentally left the lock engaged - recipe for an atomic wedgie. As for trying one or checking one out, best to get yourself to a range near you and ask around. Shooters being shooters, most will be very willing to let you check out their gear. If I had a do over, I'd get the Racer because it has a greater height adjustment and a thigh pad.

I think it's the third video where Saul explains how to fit a slightly out-of-spec trigger guard to the RM holster block. There are two parts to the fitting: The sliding piece that actually engages and "hooks" onto the trigger guard The sides of the holster block that guide the trigger guard and gun into the seated position Both need to fit properly and both may require minor adjustment depending on the individual gun and manufacturing tolerances. You may not have to fully disassemble your holster to do these adjustments but doing so will allow you to check to see if one or both of the above require adjustment. If you choose to fully disassemble, you can check the fitment of the slider on the trigger guard independent of the width of the holster block opening and adjust only the one (if it's only one) that needs fitting. Once you find the interference, a few strokes with a file or a light touch with a rotary tool will fix the problem. I had to do this for two of three holster blocks that I purchased. I got lucky on one.

E- Any "standard" type holster that covers the trigger guard and the slide to witin an inch (?) of the ejection port and retains the gun securely will do. It is the position of the holster mounted on the belt that really counts when using one for Production.

Matt Cheely is in Howell, MI. He has a dealer forum in the Vendor Tents area with a link to his website and many favorable posts from satisfied customers. You can reach him either through his website (email) or via PM from here.

Welcome to the forums. Most people are using a two belt system with either a race type or a standard holster. A two belt system consists of an inner belt threaded through pants belt loops and an outer belt secured with velcro to the inner belt. This allows one to mount the holster and ammo carriers to the outer belt and avoid the need to thread them on everytime one goes to the range. It also allows for an easy peel off removal without disturbing gear placement on the belt. There are several manufacturers of the two belt system: CR Speed, DAA, Safariland come to mind, but there are others. A race type holster is a holster that covers only the trigger guard usually via some form of locking mechanism. Some use a muzzle plug/platform but most do not. The same manufacturers come to mind for this type of holster. Additionally, there is the Amandini Ghost, the Gugas and the Manny Bragg. A standard holster is exactly that - one that covers most of the gun including a good deal of the slide. These can be made from leather but most are now made from a heat formed plastic/kydex and are very closely fitted to the profile of the specific gun. BladeTech, Ready Tactical and many other manufacturers produce this type of holster. If you can get out to a range, you will see all of this gear setup in various configurations to conform to the rule set for the particular USPSA division. Ask around and you'll get lots of feedback on what people like/dislike.

The main reason to go to the dentist is the exam. When problems are small they are easy and inexpensive to fix. Most crowns, root canals and extractions, other than third molars, are avoidable with regular dental visits. The best dental care is prevention by seeing your Dentist regularly. Personally, I like Xcaliber's reasoning, but I follow Toothguy's recommendation. Had all four of mine pulled many years ago but two at a time (one side, then the other) a couple of weeks apart. The swelling was gone in about a week and I started chewing on the healed side not long after that.

Welcome back! A lot has changed in the time past. I'd suggest getting to a range near you and checking out other open Glocks. The one thing that hasn't changed is the friendliness and willingness of shooters to let other shooters check out their gear.

What I wonder is about the dilution factor. I'm assuming that their tasters (at a minimum) have not been able to distinguish between 84 and 90 proof samples. I would also hope that they've done enough field research with regular Makers' consumer to validate the claim.

So now that we can discuss.... From a purely personal perspective, I'd raise the price. However, I can understand the business logic behind stretching the product and (hopefully) keeping the pricepoint the same.

When I drink it neat, I usual add a drop or two - 1/4 teaspoon of water at most just to help it open up a bit. Maybe I've been drinking 84 all along. I'd also raise the price to meet the demand.

Look for multi unit deals on the CR Speed and DAA. For example, DAA thru CED or Shooter's Connection offer about a 5% discount for multiples. For Limited , I run three Racemasters on the belt with one spare.

E- See my reply in your range diary. I've got you covered for grip tape. There's a lot of good info in these replies. From what I've seen when you shoot, your stance is good. Perhaps you might experiment with a little more forward lean. when shooting my SS gun but you looked fine the other time you shot your CZ. I've not watched your grip specifically because I was watching for safe gun handling but now that you mention it (and now that I'm comfortable that you are safe), I'll watch your grip and how you handle multiple shots next time.

Have you tried contacting VZ? Maybe they'll do it for an up charge? It would be a nice option to add to their product line up.

When this happens for me, it's usually because the meaty part of my support hand palm just below the thumb is slipping off of the grip. This could be an anatomic issue (you may not have meaty palms), grip strength issue or a grip fitment/texture issue. As I recall, your CZ is wearing a set of grips (factory?) with an integrated laser pointer. What I don't recall is whether they wrapped around the front strap, where that laser diode and activator switch is located and if it interferes with your grip or not. We'll take a closer look next time. On BritinUSA's suggestions: grip tape - I've got a whole sheet and you're welcome to all you need new grip panels that have a reasonably grippy texture and are likely slimmer than your factory grips Grip tape is free (until I run out), adds great texture and minimal thickness. Grip panels are not terribly expensive, but they ain't free either and they don't do anything for the front strap. Maybe a combination of the two will work for you: grip tape for the front strap and grip panels? (My SS guns are setup this way.) If you don't want to pop for new grip panels, you might consider sanding down your current grips and then hitting them with grip tape. Of course this depends on how attached you are to your current grips because this is a one-way ticket modification. Again, we'll take a look at them next time to evaluate the possibilities.

I'm pretty sure we can fix that.... Did you try adjusting the silver tension knob/screw? I'll email you a little later so as not to clutter your diary.

I echo Kevin's comments as I was watching (from closer than you may have realized) on both runs. You were safe and you were accurate. There are no more important objectives for a beginner for their first time. Yes there are many things to learn in addition to simply how to align sights and pull the trigger. Perhaps it is this one factor that keeps people interested in this shooting sport - one never stops learning. In my opinion, you are on the right track because you are: signed up for the safety class reading good instructional material asking lots of questions of many people to get different viewpoints practicing as much you can (dry / live fire) paying attention to related details i.e. financing the habit, physical fitness, etc... taking your time with gear and equipment purchases I feel your next big steps will be: USPSA membership selecting a division shooting a few matches I know you mentioned an XDM and saving your holster money for that but now that you have mag carriers that fit your CZ mags (they did fit yes?), you might want to find an inexpensive generic holster so that you can try shooting your CZ the next time. If you want a dedicated CZ holster, Blade Tech and DAA (you used the DAA yesterday) both make one for about $60 through Shooter's Connection with the BEnos member discount. If, after shooting the CZ for awhile, you decide you'd rather shoot something else, the generic holster will probably be a lost expense. However, it is quite likely that you could sell a name brand holster and recover some of that cost. Additionally, a little time with the Blade Tech (or the DAA) will allow you to form an opinion about whether or not you'd like that type of holster for the gun you will eventually purchase.

Hey Chip, I think you're referring to this: and I think the point CZ is trying to make is that for short distances between arrays, you can probably keep both hands on the gun and only partially dismount. For longer distances, it's probably more natural to let go with the weak hand, run aggressively and then re-mount as you approach to engage the next target. What is definitely true is that you need to try both for yourself to see what defines short vs. long and what yields the best results for you.

I remember Vera from back in the day. She shot at Richmond for a few seasons and then decided to focus on Bianchi. Classy lady.

With the proper spacer, the holster should be reasonably stable. I use a DAA belt and mine is quite solid. It is a thread-the-belt-through-the-hanger type holster so even if mounted with the correct spacer for your belt, it can slide if you really force it.

I order from (and have received) Atlanta Arms and DC Ammo - no problems. I don't know about private parties though.

The POTUS would have to shoot through....

Are they running combo (multiple unit) deals yet like on the DAA.biz (euro) website?

The best advice is to follow the previous replies and contact Saul / DAA. You will receive a response. There are two parts to the RM locking mechanism and they both have to fit the triggerguard of the gun. The first is the "Claw" or trigger guard block. I believe the trigger guard profile/recess is factory cut to the model that DAA has one hand for fabrication. Of course both DAA and each gun manufacturer has a certain acceptable manufacturing tolerances and the profile may not exactly fit your specific unit. A little time with few needle files should resolve this fitment issue. The second is the width of the "Slot" and the same issue applies. Both of these need to fit the gun for the holster to work well. I'm not saying the either the holster block or the gun is out of spec, but more than likely one is on the plus side of the tolerance spectrum and the other is on the minus side. Initially I spent a couple of hours fitting the "Claw" and the "Slot" on my holster (S_I) as well as smoothing out the machining flash from rest of the moving parts. The claw not so much, the the slot was way undersized and really needed to be opened up. It doesn't sound like you had the same issue with your Tanfo? I got lucky on the block for my revo - no fitting at all.

Unless you asked for the 'smith to confirm, I'd say you can trust that it's there. I always let them know it's coming, send them the tracking number and ask that they confirm receipt. Sounds like it's going to be purty