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My ELF 3gun was solid in my build with a Spinta bolt(which has now sheared off the "gas key" a 2nd time), but it will let the hammer follow, as mentioned above, on occasion with my JP bolt. The factory JP trigger in my GMR has been flawless... I am going to swap the ELF for a Hiperfire 24C and see how that plays out.

No stages...?

I guess maybe I'm just odd in that I dont broadcast the details of my "valuables" collection.

I think something may be off with your CSD. It shouldnt be removing enough (if any) flare/bell to cause what you're seeing. Reach out to Redding and explain what you're experiencing. I bet they will make it right or explain what you need to do differently.

On frame during reload. Just off trigger when moving. I've found that I have a tendency to grip a little with my strong hand when seating a new mag and this occasionally leads to my trigger finger closing some. Placing that finger on the frame gives it something safe to press against.

Not trying to be "the police" at all, and I do value your opinion JJ. I've followed a great many of your posts in learning about "Heavy/He-man". Just frustrating when you pose a question (which seems to acknowledge that your plan may be counter to the mainstream) and everyone "answers" your question by telling you that your plan is flawed. Win760 or H414 to answer OP's question as to a powder that will meter well.

I don't completely disagree with the post above, but you should only need the .400 bullets for accuracy in a given barrel. That .001 isnt going to solve the amount of shaving/scraping you're getting. Unload the brass(or turn off casefeeder) and such from the press. Then, using a single case, cycle it through the stations and see what you get. Seat slowly and check whats happening as you completely seat the bullet. You can raise the handle enough to lower and view the round without rotating the shellplate. If you keep seeing the same thing, adjust the powder die down a 1/4 turn and try again. Also, try running a case that's been through the expander up into the CSD. Measure "bell" before and after to see if there is any change. Your earlier pic of bullet sitting in case mouth looks good, so the resulting shaving doesn't make sense...to me... Nothing like a little more bell to maybe fix the problem though!

Use whatever powder charge you use for your 115-125gr bullets with a 145-165gr bullet. Make sure they look different from your regular rounds. Load them when needed for spinners or heavy steel, etc.

The OP is looking for suggestions for "practice" ammo. He is not looking for micro-MOA rounds in this endeavor. Just answer his question; he didn't ask for a critique of his plan...

Thanks! Did notice the "grayed out" box for total. Was just making sure that I wasn't missing anything else.

Does the Springfield EMP4 fit into the CCP box/allowed size parameters?

Can you post a pic of the toolhead from the side with the Redding CSD?

Something is definitely off a bit... The Redding die shouldnt be touching anything but the bullet unless the cases is "bell"-ed too much. Have you tried a standard sizing die in station #1? With the FCD at the end, I dont think you meed the u-die to start with.

I should know the answer to this question, and I know it's in the rulebook, but I'm being lazy... Misses appear to be scored as the variety that incurs penalties as opposed to NPM's. Is this correct? Someone above (post #4 - by gng) seems to indicate that they are scored as NPM's, but the scoresheet for the classifier only has a columns for M's. I could see them being NPM's for fixed time/ Vinginia count stage, but I know that classifiers have some slightly "different" rules. And, yes, I know this is an old post.

Don't do it!

I only have experience with the G17 ETS mags w/ Dawson extensions and the G18/31rd mags in 2 PCC's. I have been very pleased with the performance so far. Obviously, the ETS mags are not metal-lined. They are fairly lightweight. you can flex the walls by squeezing them in your hands. I do NOT leave mine loaded for any period of time. I do make a point to squeeze the sides together after I get them fully loaded. I have run 3 of the 17rd mags with Dawson extensions and 6-8 of the 31rd mags with Dawson extensions and haven't had any issues. I do notice that when I load any of them to max capacity, I can feel the extra resistance when seating them in either of my PCC's [JP GMR(tighter magwell) and home-built(more forgiving magwell)], but they will always seat. I would not try to reload on the clock with any of the fully loaded mags. I know that we are talking about a number of different things, but I don't think that it's fair to call the magazines junk either. ETS has been very helpful when folk have reported issues with their products.

I run 55gr FMJ's w/ 19.5 grs of 335 through an 18" Nordic barrel(1:8 twist; rifle-length gas) without issues. Take off the tin foil hats and shoot the damn ammo. End of thread.

Agree with above post. The 335 loads will be fine in the other barrel and should have a bit more velocity too.

Use the largest rear aperture for sure. Dont focus on perfect sight alignment. If you set a target at 7yds and look through your rear sight as long as the front post is somewhere in the "circle", you're definitely on paper. Aim a little less precisely at speed up close...

Neil Keller at Kustom Ballistics did great work on mine using all stock parts to stay compliant. I was referred to him by a seasoned S&W Rep that I get to shoot with a few timea a year. He does all the polishing and tweaking inside plus adds a spot of weld to the outside of the trigger bar to keep travel 100% straight back and drills and taps a tiny hole for a set screw to manage pretravel. I think it was around $150 because my gun was super-dirty when I sent it to him...

Plenty of good recoil springs out there...Wolff, ISMI, Sprinco, etc... Going to have to try a couple different ones and see what you like best. Differences in the weight of the 2 slides and numerous other things will mean that they aren't going to feel exactly the same even if you do have the exact same spring in each one. Try a 10#, maybe even a 9#, and it might be that you like the 11# better...

Here's another satisfied customer of the Spinta Blem 9mm bolt assembly. Had a CS/QC problem with my initial order, but they made it right as soon as I let them know. I removed the extra bolt mass and used a JP 9mm SCS as well. Used the delrin plug that comes with the SCS to fill the void in the buffer tube. Non-LRBHO lowers here.

Are you kidding? That's like asking a woman how much she weighs...!!!

I assume you could always just use your SS gun in "Limited" to allow more holster placement options though...?

There are a number of threads on this forum discussing slide-to-frame fit. In summation, they can be fit incredibly tight and still function perfectly well, but this is not required to achieve good accuracy. As long as the barrel is fitted properly and locks up consistently, you can still get great accuracy even if there is a little play between slide and frame. All that said, I have a 6" .40 that was apparently owned by 3-4 high volumes shooters in my area before I bought it off one of them. It definitely has some play in it, but it shoots very well. I will never be able to blame the gun for misses.