wgj3

A few more details would be helpful for those of us not in your area. I appreciate that the $230 match fee includes lunch, but what else? Assume only cash payback? What kind of scoring? How many places are paid out? How many shooters? What are the rules? Etc...?

I'm with some of the guys above. The flags that I use are shorter and harder plastic, but I still generally don't insert into the chamber. Only inserted as Eric shows. I've seen the longer ends of the flags that are designed to go into the chamber shear off from the bolt closing on it over and over and I have not interest in leaving a hunk of plastic in or near my chamber. I think that the Chamberview is a pretty cool concept. I got one off a prize table and have been using it in my PCC, but it has been frustrating because it falls out with very little help. Just figured out that I have the shotgun version. Looks like it would be great for AR's if it was reduced about 20% though...

You can bet there are people out there already trying to build a better mousetrap. I shoot with a chap who does some amount of his own gun work and we were recently discussing his foray into this topic. He's planning to use a 5.45 bolt in his trial and see where it goes from there... or you could snag one of the new semi-auto MP5 clones for a smooth $2K and go from there...

Making sure its the correct shellplate...? Loosening and retightening the die with a case in it? Adjusting tension on the shellplate? Adjusting the little finger that holds the case in the shellplate? Take note that when you insert the case into station 1 it doesnt move the shellplate back at all?

Ok, so I see Lanolin Oil and anhydrous lanolin. I can imagine that the oil would be easier to dissolve into the alcohol, but does it give the same results?

Yeah, the factory Glock mags with the +2 extensions are solid. Should be fine when loaded up all the way.

Powder coat or hitek(bayou, BBI, etc.) type coating?

Can an ADMIN fix the title of this thread? Should be "Precision Tactical" match...

Why?

It's just that the guys running the match haven't been interested in dealing with the blast/noise of full-on Open Major. It has historically been run as an IDPA-ish match. It is finally being run as a USPSA match, but its taking a little time to get over the old habits.

You can still run it with a 12-13 round tube and use the speedloaders/sticks. Shorter makes it a little easier to get around a stage and helps keep it from falling out of dump barrels/buckets. For some insight, Jerry M is someone that I would consider pretty solid in Open/Unlimited 3Gun. He is still running a tube gun and speed loaders. Guessing his tube is around 10-13 rounds in length...

^^^What he said...

Pro Chrono Digital for the win! No tripod, no problem. Just place it on top of a barrel, stool, stump, etc. and get to checking your ammo. The tripod under that LabRadar probably cost as much as the Pro Chrono Digital.

Think OP is wanting to add on to the factory 9/10 round tube for a total of 16 or so... I think it's safe to say the most folk use a Nordic extension. Do some searching for "Thai tubes" that were moderately popular a while back and you will find 20+ round tubes, etc. It's not that you can't do it, just that most don't anymore. Not a safety concern as you phrase it. Pattern does not open that quickly.

I would think that enough people asking questions along these lines would get some answers. There are a fair number of guys playing these games who have some cash and I'm certain there are plenty of unscrupulous attorneys out there who would name anyone they possibly could to potentially make a buck. I would think that the folk who will want answers are the ones like myself who volunteer at numerous matches and don't want to be on the receiving end of such a suit without any kind of help on my side. I'm still fairly young and somewhat stupid, but I can certainly see where it would help to have some clarification around this subject.

There are plenty od folk around making custom holsters these days. Shouldn't really be a problem at all.

I would imagine that USPSA will be giving us some answers in the coming days. I don't see how they could avoid it at this point.

Every club has a "flavor" or stages. Some have a broader assortment than others, but still... Learn from the things you've already identified as being issues, and most importantly, identify why you think those issues arose. Did the "new" club have you moving in ways that were foreign to you? Did they have you in less stable shooting positions? More movement than you are accustomed to? Different types of target arrays? Look at all of it. Then, take all of that new insight to your next match and leave the bad one behind you.

I definitely lile my SX3. It was my first purpose-built 3-Gun shotgun. It's nice and light and has always run very well. I had Briley open the loading port and add their oversize bolt-release button. They also added their extension because I was new and didnt know about Nordic, etc. Briley cut the barrel to 24" and installed their thinwall chokes. I still have it and wouldn't hesitate to run it im a match, but I went to the JM930 as my primary because I was very easily able to get 2 of them set up to play for well under $2K. It's also nice that the 930 safety is in the same place as the 590 that I started competing with.

I thought that shortbus was Jason...?

I am making an assumption that I am only talking to one person here... If you apply pressure on the "fin" with your weak thumb forward of the pin and actually actuate the slide lock "feature" in that manner, then you may have other issues to work through... If your only concern is preventing slide lock from rounds in mag or follower contacting slide stop lug, then you would actually remove material from the bottom of the slide stop lug, below the area that you have circled and labeled #1. Look at it and see how the parts interface. I suppose that if you wanted to make it such that the slide stop could never engage the notch on the slide, you could remove material at the area that you have labeled #2... PS - Pick a username and stick with it.

Enough to stop it engaging...

Cut the engagement lug off the stop and/or remove the material from the follower that should engage the slide stop. Or, have someone weld-up the gap in the slide that the slide lock would engage to lock slide back.

That's so awesome!

Thanks, Dillon!