Wild Gene

These two points are key. You would have to shoot with the same cant on your rifle every time, unfortunately, courses of fire will often require shooting strong and weak sided. PRS matches are not often shot on level terrain. I'm not trying to put you down. I am just adding my personal observations from practicing shooting from compromised positions, at various angles and distances. Take care, Gene

Graham, I agree. If your reticle is not perpendicular to the bore, then holdovers/unders will absolutely be left or right of center as you dial elevation adjustments. I really discovered this for myself shooting Long range black powder with a shiloh sharps, MVA soule sight, and great big 520 grain lead bullets. I had to use bits of aluminum to make sure that my tang sight was perpendicular to the bore axis or else I had a heck of a time sighting in my rifle. It would shoot left up to 100 yards, dead on at 100 and then move right after. The higher I had to dial in, the more it shot right. That meant the sight was canted to the right. Granted, the sight was mounted below the bore axis, so it could have been more pronounced, in both directions. It may not make much difference on a scoped hunting rifle when the line of sight is a little over an inch over the bore axis, but with a 34mm tube and 4.5-27x56 scope the is 2" above the bore axis, combined with a sight in distance of 100 yards and shooting out to 1,000 yards or more, you will notice it. Out here, there is one shoot that has targets out like 1,400 yards, and the bullet path is off a big flat, then over water then up to a cliff face, all at the bend of a river, so you have up draft, cross wind then another updraft all messing with your bullet on a IPSC size steel plate. The JC Steel Challenge, look it up, there are some great videos. wg

I've never even thought about the feeler gauges. I had to read it a couple times, then think about it before it clicked. It is a great idea, as long as there is a rail on the rifle and the rail is level. wg

Thanks, I've made the switch to the 175 SMK's with the GAP. Still working on a load. wg

Probably the same way you are doing it. Put your gun in a gun vice, level the action, then make sure the scope is sitting level (put a level on the scope turret). Make sure you keep your level oriented the same because your level may not be level. If you are using two levels, make sure they both show the same thing when they are both sitting on the same surface. Tighten it up evenly, check it with your eye and confirm on the range. Keep in mind a lot of guys and several manufacturers are running 20 MOA rails, so don't get discouraged your scope doesn't seem level with the action along the bore axis. It shouldn't be. I've had guys that have been shooting a lot longer than I have get hung up on that point. wg

I disagree. It will change elevation adjustments above and below sight in point of impact moving POI left or right.

I was looking at that bag. Not sure why I went with the smaller Berry Bag, but with that and the pump pillow, I can cover a lot of scenarios. wg

Bullet yaw is what's causing your groups to get bigger and then smaller again. Air friction combined with centrifugal force causes yaw. Yaw causes the bullet to spiral. This bullet spiral starts immediately upon leaving the bore, may reach a diameter as large as several inches and then eventually the gyroscopic action of the spinning bullet causes the bullet stop yawing (the bullet "goes to sleep"). Most .223 bullets go to sleep somewhere between 75 and 150 yards depending on bullet weight and velocity. All bullets yaw to some extent or another but the fewer imperfections on the bullet the less it will yaw. An uneven barrel crown will magnify yaw, a perfect crown will minimize it. Crown quality is probably the difference between your two rifles. Any idea where this might generally occur with a .308? What about bullet weight? I suspected the same thing, but had never seen anyone else use the term "yaw". I have flight hours logged and would have never thought of that term! It is perfect. Anyway, yes, Imagine my surprise when I fired an almost one hole 25yard 5 shot group, then moved out to 100 and couldn't get 2 inch, then out to 300-700 and can hit 10x12" steel. Oh well, that is the difference between a $500 and $3500 rifle. I would hope the more expensive one would shoot better. wg

Welcome! So, where do you get to shoot over there? My understanding is the Kitsap Rifle and Revolver Club has been shut down. I don't know why, but it really appears that someone is angry at someone. I don't get how one club could have so much trouble compared to all the others. We have a place to stay near Suquamish, but I never bring my guns because I don't want to have to take a ferry back and forth if I don't have to. I like to shoot USPSA, 3-Gun, long range (precision rifle type, not the F1 stuff) and even some shotgun stuff. Not really trap, but skeet, 5 Stand or sporting clays. wg

I've heard a lot of great things about these rifles. I have a buddy that has one, and it has been very accurate. I also had two guys tell me they had a lot of trouble with them, but that may have been with early production, and suggested I do not buy one. I think there is not a problem going with a 308, especially if it is a first long range rifle. It is, generally, le$$ to shoot than some of the other caliber options. There are a lot of guys that actually train with a 308 and not their 6mm or 6.5mm match rifles. Don't skip on the glass and have fun. wg

How many shooting bags do you carry with you to a match? It seems like some guys look like they are suiting up for K-9 training. I have four shooting bags that seem to cover several shooting positions. From Wiebad I have a Berry Bag, Mini Range Cube and a Pump Pillow, and a rear bag from Rifles Only. The Mini Range cube is excellent for shooting off a bench or prone, but I could probably get by at a match just using the Rifles Only rear bag. wg

I have a Mossberg that I can shoot great sub MOA groups at 25 and 50 yards, and then at 100 it opens up to about 2", then seems to settle down again out past 300 yards. Heck, I've used it on 10x12" steel out to 700 yards. I have a GA Precision rifle that just shoots sub MOA pretty much regardless of the distance. Yesterday, I was comparing the different POI of 168 vs 175 SMK's. I had 4 rounds of 175's and one 168 and shot a five round group. The 175's printed a .23" four shot group and the 168 was about .5" below the 175's. Before that, I put five consecutive 175's on a 6" steel gong at 600 yards. Must have something to do with harmonics and the phase of the moon. wg

Warpspeed asked my question. If that wasn't a huge part of the equation, along with load density, then powder burn rate would not have such a huge effect on the accuracy of one .30 caliber round vs another .30 cal round, and we have all been wasting a lot of time. wg

Thanks for the great review. SCAR, remember, the Vortex is around a pound heavier than the Bushnell. The best thing about the big knobs, are the big numbers! I don't need cheaters to see the numbers on my Bushnell, and I'm guessing you wouldn't on the Razor II. The locking turrets on both the Vortex and Bushnell is a great option. I would really like to see the Bushnell and Vortex side by side, in a similar review. The reviews on this page are always very honest, not a "paid for infomercial". WG

OK, I take it all back, I switched over to MRAD for long range.... It is really nice to work with. Very easy ranging capability. What Rob01 said

MGW now has a Universal tool that you just buy a specific "shoe" for Brands and models. It is absolutely awesome. I love it. You can make very precise rear sight adjustments. I was looking at MGW and just getting a specific tool for everything, and when you are looking at one for a Glock, one for a 1911, etc, this is really a good deal. I did three Glocks and a 1911 in a matter of minutes. wg

Thanks for the replies. I just find it strange that if you have Brand X bullets and Brand Y powder, you can look at Brand X's information and it might say 43 grains for the combination and you look at Brand Y's information and it might say 45 grains, for the exact same X+Y combination. That's what I was getting at. By the way, saved myself tons of time. Bought a GA Precision rifle and it has shot everything I have fed it SUB MOA. wg

And another vote for the Inforce WML (HSP for me). This is a great light, with just the right lens that generates a great blend of light, more like a flood than one intense hot spot in the middle. The low profile, light weight and integral mount make it a great buy. I too have mine mounted at 12:00, so I can run it with either hand, with my buis mounted behind it a few inches. My optic in an Aimpoint Comp3 and I have no issue with the light, or support hand blocking my view, and my folding buis are a perfect 1/3 co-witness when extended. Just a great light. wg

If you only want 9 in the tube, why don't you just blind load it? Or am I missing something?

I really have had great luck with my Seekin's barrels.

I live on the other side of the state. The smoke has been here, it seems like, all summer. Some days visibility has been under 1/4 mile. We were lucky. Our fire was early in the year, and we had almost all the resources available in the state. Only about 6,000 acres, and I was really lucky, only about 40 acres of my place burned, and that that did was mostly grassy steep hillsides and brushy draws. I did not loose many trees at all. I had over 100 Hot Shots and firefighters sleeping on our place several nights. We had our dozer, there was a contract dozer, an excavator, and several water tenders and engines on site. This is a market problem as much as anything. All the regulations now associated with trying to even clean up your own land has made it cost prohibitive, let alone selectively log it. That combined with the closure of any mill within 100 miles has really hurt us. Again, we were lucky, the fire basically burned around three sides of our land, but many of my neighbors lost millions in timber, had they been able to log. WG

I would say it is not optimal, but why not give it a try! I can use a Mossberg MVP, 20" fluted Sporter profile barrel (which is about a 1.5-2MOA rifle) and get first round hits out to almost 700 yards on 10x12" steel and Hornady Steel Match 155 Ammo. That rifle is kind of like a Bumble Bee that doesn't know it isn't supposed to be able to fly. I would think that the potential with your rifle would be much better. Pick your day because the wind is going to kill you but other than that, who cares. I would take my other rifle and 168SMK's and shoot past 700 all day long.

Nature Boy, I'm curious about your load for the 155's and H4895? My general intent is to get a good 155/H4895 load for my M1A, and a good 168/Varget load worked up for my bolt gun. (M1A Squad Scout and GAP 22" bolt gun) One day, I will actually get it done. I'd just rather borrow a load. The GAP has lived up to the 3/8 MOA guarantee with match grade ammo (Factory Federal 168 SMK's), but the M1A has been a little different story (not fair to compare the two). wg

I've been breaking in a new barrel on a GAP rifle I just bought. They suggest one round, then clean with Shooters choice or Butch's, followed by cleaning with a copper solvent like Barnes or one other that I do not recall. The first 5 or 6 rounds produced a lot of copper, but then it almost stopped entirely. At that time, you shoot 5 shot groups then clean as above. After about 25 total rounds, I stopped getting any copper fouling. After that, they suggest NOT using the copper solvent as often, more like 200-300 rounds. The process is posted on the GA Precision website. What I'm most impressed by is how much the regular commercial carbon solvents do or do not work. I've tried a few and the best seems to be the Shooters Choice, followed by Hopes #9. I did not have any of the Butch's to try. Because of this, I think how often you address the copper fouling really depends on not only the ammo you are shooting and the barrel you are shooting it out of, etc., but which solvent you use to clean your rifle with on a regular basis.

One more for a 10 round Nordic tube. You can buy one from Benny Hill, or I am sure there are more elsewhere, but Benny knows the best length to cut the replacement spring. wg