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Wild Gene

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Everything posted by Wild Gene

  1. That APPEARS to be a mid rib style gun. It should be fine, and actually can help on trap style targets. I had a mid ribbed gun and have friends that shoot them very effectively on the Sporting range. The trend among the Master Class shooters is Flat rib, although there are still some using the mid height rib. The trend among Master class shooters is also straight (yet sloped) stock or Monte Carlo. These are not to be confused with a parallel comb. The sloped comb allows for the amount of flesh contacting the stock. In a shot fairly level the cheek contacts the comb slightly less than halfway from nose to heel. Incline the gun up and there is substantially less flesh under the zygomatic arch. The higher dimensions of the nose keep your eye in the same orientation to the rib. On a target presented well below your feet the cheek hits the stock substantially farther back toward the heel. Much more flesh between the center of your eye and the rib. The lower dimension makes allowance for this and keeps your eye at the same height to the rib. There's a reason that trap and skeet guns do well with parallel combs...the angle of the barrels are barely elevated. Sporting guns have to cope with a much wider variety of angles presented. (I believe this is paraphrased from a discussion between Andy Duffy, Anthony Matarese and Zach Kienbaum.) To address the statement about looking at the beads. Basically the beads are there to check your mount. You should be aware of where the barrel is in relation to the bird, but if you look at the bead, you're generally going to stop your barrel and miss behind the bird. Some of the best Sporting Clays shooters I know have a mount that is so refined, they have actually removed the mid bead and used it to replace the front bead. Good shooting and again, it won't be your last sporting shotgun. wg
  2. I have a 6", 40S&W. Probably one of the last ones out of his shop when he was going hot and heavy. Super nice gun. I really need to sell mine as I am no longer shooting competitive pistol stuff. I could spend the money on a new shotgun! Anyway, they are a great pistol and you should have no regrets for picking it up. Several top shooters used them both here in the US and in Europe. Enjoy it! wg
  3. The 6" guns are easier on 50 year old eyes. I can clearly focus on my front sight quicker and easier with a 6" gun than a 5" gun. That said, I have a 6" Millennium Custom that just sits in the safe because I am no longer shooting competitively. Actually, I really just need to sell it.
  4. I think the best way to go into this would be with the expectation that what ever your first gun is, it will not be your last. I have had a Ruger, Beretta's, CG's. I have shot Blaser's, Krieghoff's, Brownings, Rizzini's and several others. They are all great shotguns. Every time I thought I was where I wanted to be, something else popped up. Had I known what I know then that I know now, it would have saved me a ton, but the trip has been fun. I like to see who is selling a brand, who the stocking dealers are. Elite Shotguns is a stocking Rizzini dealer, very reputable, that tells me Rizzini is a good brand. So, if I were to suggest anything for a sporting shotgun, get one that you like the feel of, get one that is a "Sporting" model, has an adjustable comb (monte carlo is fine, but not parallel), that has choke tubes, that has a flat or medium height rib (I prefer flat), and get 32" barrels. If you like the way it feels, don't be afraid. Get lessons with an NSCA certified coach, they can help you determine if your gun really fits you as well as you think it does. They can also help start you off right. Buy ammo by the flat anytime possible (8's and/or 7.5's, 1oz (1200-1300fps) or 1-1/8oz. (1200-1250fps) and have fun! Didn't really answer your question even slightly, did I... haha Have fun and good shooting. wg
  5. Howdy, just an FYI, from the Hornady Tech line. Not all match brass is marked as such anymore. wg ----------------- Mr. Wild Gene, Until last year we always marked our Match brass with the word Match on the base of the bullet. Due to the demand for products, in the last three years, we stopped marking the word Match on the base of the case because the Match and “other” brass is the same. Match brass will have the brown look to the case in the top 1/3 and this if from the final annealing, all brass has this but we was the “non-Match” brass so it does not show. If you’d like to visit with us further please call our Tech Dept. 1-800-338-3220. Thanks, -----------------
  6. I wrote into GAP, they called me immediately. They explained that while the AX mags can work, or be made to work, the other mags are much better, and that I must have been accidentally sent the wrong Mags. They are sending me two replacements, and I will return the two originally supplied. Great Job making things right!!! wg
  7. AICS-vs-AICS-AX-mag.jpg Tom, THANK YOU! Found a picture, yes, I have two of those and four regular ones now. I'll have to read more about them now. Thanks again. If the above link doesn't work, here is another address and article explaining the chassis. http://rifleshooter.com/2013/12/accuracy-international-aics-ax-2-0-chassis-system-review-initial-thoughts/#prettyPhoto wg
  8. I wish they had better pictures. The very small plate on the front of my magazines is probably 1/4"x3/8"by maybe 1/16" thick and only at the top of the front of the magazine on the outside. There appears to be no difference internally, that I have noticed yet, but will go back and measure. wg
  9. Question please. I have some AICS mags that came with my rifle when it was shipped from GAP (I haven't had this rifle very long, less than a year). I recently purchased some new Mags from Mile High Shooting, an AICS distributor. The old mags are really tough to get in and out of the rifle, while the new ones work much better than the old ones ever did. They slide right in and out. Are there different versions or updates of AICS magazines for the 308? When looking at the magazines the only visible difference is the original 10 round mags have a small piece of metal at the top front outside of the magazine, while the new 10 round mags do not have the bump. I also noticed that the original 5 round magazine did not have this bump either. Did AICS do an update, or was I just sent some inferior mags with the rifle. Is there a tuning method similar to the STI mags? I think I could probably just file down the bump, but am not sure if the magazine will maintain structural integrity if I do. I would post pictures if I could figure out how to do it. Thanks, wg
  10. This is another reply, but worth consideration. If you are developing loads at 50 yards, you really need to take SD into consideration of potential performance at farther distances. I'm not sure if everything I've said is properly stated, but I do know that a 50fps variation in muzzle velocity makes a huge difference at 1,000 yards: "If load #1 fired MOA or less groups, it would be a better bet for Long Range shooting, over load 6, depending on the bullet's BC. I would kick out loads with an SD or 20 or more of those options (without even considering extreme spread). Run the Dope charts for a bullet traveling 2600 fps and the same bullet traveling 2650fps and look at the 1,000 yard column. I took some generic figures and there was an almost 20" difference in point of impact. You might have a load that shoots sub MOA at 100, and out past 600 that has such an extreme spread in velocity or high SD that once you get out a ways they are less than satisfactory. SD is using all the rounds in a string checked while ES is only using 2 rounds so your odds are better using SD for calculation of expected average performance verses ES which gives you more of a possible performance (possible, but not probable). Just for fun, throw in the BC's when considering what you are going to use, because as you know, doping the wind is the real fight in this game. Anyway, if 1 MOA is 10" at 1,000 yards and it is measured from the center of your aiming point you have a 5"+/- in any direction. If you have a 50fps difference in velocity at 1,000 yards that works out to 20" (10"+/- up or down) So you are doubling (statistician's feel free to correct this) your decrease in accuracy." wg
  11. If load #1 fired MOA or less groups, it would be a better bet for Long Range shooting, over load 6, depending on the bullet's BC. I would kick out loads with an SD or 20 or more of those options (without even considering extreme spread). Run the Dope charts for a bullet traveling 2600 fps and the same bullet traveling 2650fps and look at the 1,000 yard column. I took some generic figures and there was an almost 20" difference in point of impact. You might have a load that shoots sub MOA at 100, and out past 600 that has such an extreme spread in velocity or high SD that once you get out a ways they are less than satisfactory. SD is using all the rounds in a string checked while ES is only using 2 rounds so your odds are better using SD for calculation of expected average performance verses ES which gives you more of a possible performance (possible, but not probable). Just for fun, throw in the BC's when considering what you are going to use, because as you know, doping the wind is the real fight in this game. Anyway, if 1 MOA is 10" at 1,000 yards and it is measured from the center of your aiming point you have a 5"+/- in any direction. If you have a 50fps difference in velocity at 1,000 yards that works out to 20" (10"+/- up or down) So you are doubling (statistician's feel free to correct this) your decrease in accuracy. Sooo many things to consider, but just using the smallest group is not always the best indication of accuracy/performance at longer range. wg
  12. How do you keep your dope from getting confusing from one stage to the next? Do you wash between stages or just use new colors? wg
  13. I had no idea they have those laminating pouches. I've always just done it with clear strapping tape. This would make it way easier when you figure out a dope update on site to correct your cards. I'd still have my AB app with me regardless. What template are you printing your info out with? Looks like a nice format. I will also make a note that reminds me to not take the shot until I'm fully setup, instead of good enough. wg
  14. Three very good ideas, especially your thoughts on contrasting colors and lighting conditions. Thank you, wg
  15. How do you like to set up your Arm Boards? Do you keep a ballistics chart and just write down clicks, or sketches of the reticle with aiming points? Do you change the card each stage or just write over it with a grease pencil? What is the best way to keep it simple? I just picked up a new arm board from Sunrise Tactical. Very nice board. Thanks. wg
  16. You won't want the light for a USPSA match. Welcome. wg
  17. This is what I've figured out, but on the other hand, unless you are at the right match that has a tactical class for the 308's, you aren't going to be super competitive with the 308 either. It sounds like you have all you bases covered and can shoot well enough already, so unless you do plan to compete, go with whatever you are comfortable with. If you hadn't added that you have the 264 or the Norma, then I would say try the Mil glass. I sure would consider the Burris for the money, just make sure you can look through one since you are accustomed to Leupold glass already. I LOVE my Leupold glass. You may as well look at the Kahles stuff too. They get overlooked and are excellent glass. wg
  18. You bought it! Congratulations. I'd ask around and go to a few long range tactical competitions, if that is where you would eventually like to end up shooting, and see what those guys are using for the reticle, MOA/MOA or MIL/MIL. Ask any friends you might be shooting with too. The benefit of using what they area using is that they can help you get on target faster if you are using the same thing. If they are spotting with their scope, they can call your hits and corrections quickly if you are both using MIL or MOA glass. wg
  19. I personally think it is more a matter of consistency. What ever you do, with that particular rifle, needs to be repeated every time. You really need to let the reticle "self center" within the scope tube, you need to have a round circle, and you need to see an even amount of black around that circle every time. You need to have an amount of pressure that enables you to do that every time you fire the rifle. wg
  20. I shot one, cleaned powder residue then copper, repeat. I did this until after about 10 rounds, when the copper fouling almost quit. It was very easy and didn't take very long to do. I followed the process they have on the GA Precision website. Now I just clean it when I feel like it. This has been a sub 1/2" moa rifle out to 500 yards, farther than that, I can't see good enough nor have I taken the time to check. I know I can put 5x5 on 6"steel at 600 yards. I like to think it was partly due to taking the time to break it in. wg
  21. I have an opportunity to get one of these at a really good price. I will be putting it on a 6.5 CM bolt rifle. I like everything I see about them, especially the lighter weight than the Vortex and even the Bushnell. The reticle seems to be very good, simple and un-cluttered. The eye box sounds very forgiving. The overall quality and durability appears to be excellent. I have a Bushnell ERS 3.5-21x 50mm with the G2 reticle on another rifle, and it is good glass, but honestly, I am not super impressed or blown out of the water by it. I have yet to not just dial elevation, so I don't see a "christmas tree" style reticle as a necessity. The substensions are so close on the outer edges that it is very difficult to use them for ranging. There is no illumination, although that may not be a big deal, I have only wanted it a couple times, but made out without it. Honestly, I thought to myself that other than increased magnification, the Bushnell wasn't that much better than my PST's. I have an astigmatism, and a little trouble with near vision. I will use +1.5 cheater glasses to see things up close. If the contrast is good, I can get by without the cheaters. Some days I can see the numbers on the Bushnell turrets better than others. The flat dark earth scope combined with black numbers may be part of the blame for this. The numbers just don't jump out at me like white on black. The Bushnell has locking turrets, but in a stage, to raise and lower the turret vs a very positive "click" to adjust elevation is not an advantage. While locking turrets was initially a very big consideration when purchasing a scope for my first rifle, I was looking at it from a 3-Gunner's point of view more than from a PRS shooter's view. I have yet to watch guys not dial elevations on every target of a stage if there is more than 100 yards difference between yardage (unless they forgot). I have been considering Nightforce and Vortex in addition to the Kahles. Has anyone spent any time behind the Kahles? What are your thoughts and considerations? Thank you, wg
  22. I wonder who makes the barrels for the Seekins SP10 or the PWS rifles? They both put out an awesome rifle and if the barrels are made in house, you could keep your money somewhat local, in the state anyway (Boise or Lewiston). wg
  23. I have fired these rifles, in both the 6.5 CM and .308, and they are good shooters. I had a .75" 200 yard 5 shot group which really surprised me. They have a lot of really great ideas built right in. There are a few changes I would make, such as the stock profile (prefer the Manners T2A, which won't work on this rifle), then as others have suggested swapping barrels, the bolt shroud thingy, hand guard and eventually the trigger, but for right out of the box at about a grand, you really can't beat it. Spend 1K on the rifle, 1.7K on optics and another $500 on ammo and you can save your money until you can afford any upgrades you may deem necessary. It is a rifle you will really love, especially if you have never shot a GAP, RBros, AI or other custom rifle. wg
  24. Most of the time, when you are shooting this far, the scope will have a parallax adjustment for that very reason. You can really tell when you don't adjust it correctly too! Today I was playing with a new load shooting groups with my 308. I had four rounds that went .27" on center, then for some reason played with the adjustment and put one more over to the side, opening the group up to about .49"OC. It could have been adjustment, or I could have just pulled it. Anyway, the parallax adjustment on this particular scope goes from about 30 yards out to infinity and really makes a difference if you don't adjust it, at least for me. There are a lot of guys that shoot way better than I do, and may not need to adjust their scope as often, but I know I sure have to. wg
  25. Graham, the best estimate I could come up with off hand for a 45-70 firing a 520 grain bullet with an estimated BC of .25 and a muzzle velocity of 1600fps would be about 120' of drop (240 MOA) at 1,000 yards! I have no idea exactly, and can't find my note book, but I seem to remember something around that number as an estimate, but honestly I can't tell you because I don't know how to do the conversion when my sight reads inches, not MIL's or MOA. I know the sight was almost at the top of it's 289 MOA of elevation adjustment range (book says 289 MOA, but again, not sure how to convert between the numbers on the sight verses just dialing MOA). My sight is a #103 Long Range Buffalo from Montana Vintage Arms. It rests on the back of a Shiloh Sharps 1874 #1 Sporter with a few upgrades. Anyway, sorry to get off the topic of how I level my scope.
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