assaulter

Very informative. Well done!

Do not take out the pin. Loosen the set screw and drift the entire sight.

I've sent a half dozen or so in various forms of finish and they've always come back looking good. I'm waiting on one to come back now.

You could send it off to be nitrided for $50. It will look awesome and you won't have to worry about rust or blasting it yourself.

If you have a Bomar sight, check the elevation screw to see if it's too long. Press on the firing pin with a punch and see if it binds a little. If it does, back out the elevation screw a turn or two and see if that fixes it. Then you can grind or file the screw a little shorter if need be.

Sometimes a few thousands of metal can wreck havoc. I would mark up the slide stop with a sharpie and see if you can tell where it is sticking. You might be able to fix it with a few strokes of a file.

I had light strikes in a gun that an extended pin fixed. Now I always use them in new builds.

It's striking to see that cerakote is more than chrome or nickel.

What's the average price on a whole gun?

I would nitride.

I like the kensight deep notch bomar with the blade edges beveled.

The biggest difference is how you are going to hold the frame. The way it is cut out for the grip makes it very difficult to hold any way other than the dust cover.

Storm Lake for a drop in. I've got a couple kkm fit barrels too.

Do you have access to a milling machine? That makes the work much easier/quicker/accurate. How much do you want to spend? Quality parts are going to run you over $1000, at least. It can be mostly done by hand, but there are some special tools that are necessary that you will need to include in the budget also.

I've got several 1911 and 2011 hosts. You can buy a drop in 1911 barrel. It will work fine.

STI, JEM, CK, PT. I'm pretty sure they all make a wide body 2011 frame. I don't know which ones only have the short dust cover.

The claim just seems silly on its face. I've done both,but I prefer a machine fit more just to save time and maintain parallel. Still end up with a great result.

The act of chambering a round strips some of the energy of the forward slide travel. To say there is no difference at all is not true. An occasional drop isn't going to hurt it, but I avoid it if I can. Your gun your rules.

What you don't want to do is let the slide go forward without holding the trigger to the rear. This allows the sear to slam against the hammer hooks. With the trigger to the rear the dissconnector prevents this from happening,which is the condition when you are firing the gun.

I've used .100 and .125 and honestly, on the clock, I can't tell any difference in speed but I'll give the edge to the wider front sight for precision. I can switch pistols with different front sight width''s and not even notice the change.

Titanium gun did a barrel for me. Turned out great and many thousands of rounds later it looks brand new. I don't think an entire gun would look good though.

I thought I'd share my recent build. Commander 2011 with Kart 9mm barrel. Started with a bald slide,all done on a manual mill. Black nitride finish. Its a tack driver too! Still looking for a 126mm mag if you know anyone that he as an extra.

That would do the trick. A lot of work though,and difficult to keep consistent.

I'm not ragging on anyone. I'm merely posing a question as to whether this is the standard that STI cuts their slides to, in the experience of the gun builders on enos. If it's a fluke that's good to know. If this is just how it is,that's good to know also. How would you remove those raised lines if it was your build?

Are the PT and CK slides pretty consistent in quality and dimension?