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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Aiden

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    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 03/23/1989

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    Peoria, IL
  • Real Name
    Vincent Strow

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  1. Currently experimenting with a heavier build. 6 inch bushing barrel 2011. 51oz no mag. Short dust cover. Coming from shooting a 6 inch bushing barrel build, 48oz no mag. Also a short dust cover. Funnily enough I liked 39 to 42oz with a plastic grip, then hated 43 to 46oz. Only so many ways to distribute the weight with a steel grip gun, so it wasn't until I hit 48 that I started to like it again.
  2. Limcat is the first one that comes to mind. Has a giant shelf too if you want to reprofile it.
  3. I rack from the front by smacking my palm against the top of the slide. Serrations or not, the pro grip palm has a high enough coefficient of friction to manipulate the slide. I've done this with naked slides, cerakoted slides, and Glocks. I do shoot 6 inch guns though so maybe that extra inch makes handling it easier...
  4. Gotcha. Someone who will remain nameless in this thread has regularly left part of his thumb on one of my guns (now his). Very obvious it was happening, even if it didn't necessarily cause a malfunction. Hence the shielded safety.
  5. Do you have a distinct smudge of what used to be your skin cells and oil on the slide after you shoot? Or is it just not returning to battery for other reasons? Blood is also a good indicator if you cut yourself on serrations. Similar question is if it returns to battery every time when you consciously move your thumb away from the slide when firing.
  6. My next build I'd consider doing an EGW. It has the most meat so I could pin it from the start and blend it in the fixed position. It'd potentially have that cool seamless look. But I've been very happy with the Cheely ones. Reasonable price, fixed works great with polymer MSH, and generally they're a decent fit and can be blended okay to most frames.
  7. I have uhhh 3 of the Cheely pinned beavertail GS. It works out really well on my CK frame, but it still has a slight gap in the rear. It also wiggles slightly with my Dawson MSH so I ended up pinning it anyway. The EGW grip safety was fantastic because it had so much you could remove and fit, but I didn't want to fit it to a finished frame so I went with something closer to drop in. The Cheely was closer to drop in so I actually ended up using that instead as well (hence the second one). I do some minor blending but I just want them comfortable, not beautiful. Lastly I've several Ed Brown memory groove grip safeties, and I hate the memory groove. So I keep removing them and installing Cheely fixed safeties instead.
  8. It's different for every gun, every time... Lol You won't know how much fitting it'll really need until you've got the part, your frame, and your ignition. Generally I'd say machined parts will be easiest to fit because the tolerances are better, and they'll probably last longer. If you can understand how the part is intended to function, you'll be well positioned to fit it. Use sharpie, check often, and go slowly and you'll probably be fine. Brazos has a great guide on their website. If you've never installed a safety before, I always advise buying an inexpensive Wilson or Ed Brown single side safety and fitting that first. If you screw up you're only out 30 bucks, and if you do it correctly, you have a spare backup safety that's fit to your gun.
  9. What is it that interests you? The flat angle vs a radius?
  10. Limcat, PT, and Swenson shielded safeties will prevent this. Sandman's Limcat shielded safety is awesome and feels way better than the Swensons. I would trim the ledge significantly with my grip. They feel... weird if you're used to having your thumb right in line with the top of the grip, since they'll push it out to the side a little. But you can hug nice and tight and never fear for touching the slide.
  11. 100% can confirm the Limcat grip feels smaller than the SV. It's especially narrow in the back. Feels very 1911esque from behind. If you like that, then I think it's the grip for you. Especially since it doesn't have that ergo curve like the PT Evo and SV Signature do.
  12. I just stole my friends 30lpi file and I've got a 20lpi and I'm not going to lie ... I had a real itch to try an SV trigger again... I guess the upside is I'll only ruin the insert, not the entire trigger.
  13. I'm still very partial to the STI polymer long curve trigger. Most of my STI gunsmith blanks end up strongly resembling the length, curve, and texture. I prefer some texture on my trigger face, so the SV smooth trigger shoe isn't my favorite thing in the world.
  14. I would say start with a 100% lower if you're looking to build for the first time. It's more or less good to go and wouldn't require you buying a jig or milling anything. They aren't significantly less expensive, unless you have access to tools/fixtures already.
  15. How high are your standards? Do you just want a gun that runs? Will it be a backup gun? Do you want fancy slide cuts or classic serrations? Are you patient?
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