Aric

I start with a 170 and reload to a 140. I have two 140’s on my belt mainly in case I screw up a reload. I have one 155 that I am trying out. So far I like the 155.

I also use the Kobalt mixer. I have water and soap spillage but I modified the paddles to agitate the brass. The 1/2 hp motor is more than enough power to start the drum with a 5 gallon bucket load of brass and water. It isn’t as loud as a steel drum mixer, but still loud. With the garage doors closed you can hear it but it’s not disturbingly loud. I’d like to see a picture of how you seal the mixer.

How difficult would it be to extend to rib on the SV magazine body? Probably not feasible but thought I’d ask.

Same results for me with SV tubes: 29 works great, 30 goes below the rib on the magazine body. Mbx rib runs runs all the way to the bottom. What is preventing 30 in a mbx?

I find that the gun tracks differently with these different case volumes.

I would agree with everyone else, sell, trade or return them to Wilson. Does you gun work with other magazines? Are the feed lips in spec? Are the magazine springs strong? Do the followers move easily in the magazine bodies?

What issues are you having with the magazines?

Is it possible to get 30 in the new style? If so, how?

Is it easier to get 30 in any of the magazine bodies?

Super comp cases are slightly smaller in diameter than 9mm.

I am fairly certain it has crimped primer pockets.

I have mine set up so I can stand or sit on a bar stool. I like this setup because I can get tired of sitting or standing while doing a longer reloading session.

I bought two 170’s off their website a few years back, before going to nationals. I didn’t have time to test them before but I thought new SV magazines would run in my SV. I loaded them up and found out that they only held 26-27 rounds. Ok, I’ll use them on the shorter stages or where I am going to reload early. They both had FTF issues the first time I used them. I set them aside and didn’t use them for the rest of the match. When I got home I figured out that the springs were too weak. Grams springs and followers fixed that. Also when I put them in a magazine gauge, I had a few MM to spare so I went with a larger base pad. They now hold 29, reloadable. I would recommend that you build your own 170’s or buy MBX magazines. If you do buy from SV, make sure they know what you want: maximum capacity that is reliable that barely fits into the gauge.

Matt, you need more time behind the gun. Some dry fire and one match isn’t enough. Also, you can learn a lot from the dot. It will more than likely help you with iron sights as well.

More photos, this time with better lighting.

Do you think it’s your gun or the primers causing this? If you drop the hammer a second time, do they go off?

How did the fire start?

If you cut them, pay attention to the direction that the base pad slides off. I have had some where the cut end of the spring will wedge in between the base pad and the magazine body. Cut them so the sharp end of the spring won’t bind up when you take them apart.

After I fill up my case feeder, I spray a little one shot. The case feeder seems to get the one shot on them as it’s working.

I like the Zuca bag. It’s got enough space and pockets for all my gear. It has a sturdy steel frame that doubles as a seat. It’s not too heavy. It’s fits in the trunk of my car. The only negative is the small wheels but I have seen others with large wheels.

Back when it was hard to find primers, I used what ever I could get my hands on including SPM. I feel that, for the most part primers are interchangeable. Having said that, I found that I could use 0.1 grain less powder and get the same velocity using SPM primers.

CBC has tight and/or crimped primer pockets. I have to go very slow on my 550, my 1050 doesn’t seem to care. Once the primer pocket is swaged I can load at a normal speed on the 550.

Now all I need to do is sell my 38SC gun.

I picked it up from the FFL today.

If I remember correctly, the serial number(s) were decided shortly after the deposit was paid.