dauntedfuture

You could try .355-6 lead bullets in your .357. My S&Ws .38 and .357's shoot fine with 147 and 125 Lead 9mm bullets which are .356 i think.

You can do it in 9mm with some 147 whatevernonlead bullets. Look for a low heat powder in a small dose to keep the gas down and the can cool. You will get better results with your can. I believe single base powders will run cooler. I would look at SOLO 1000. I tried some autocomp and its quite gassy and with 147s at the same velocity the solo loads sounded better.

5" M&P non pro. 147 naked lead with 3.2 Solo. dont recall velocity but PF around 130 55 F @5K ft asl. Been shooting this quite a while now and plan on making the jump to Bayou 147's this winter provided they shoot as expected.

I have read all the posts and its still a little overwhelming to a production shooter with his M&P that wants to run his limited 2011 in .40. I have three old SVI mags that came with the gun that had aerrodondo followers and pads on them that would not lock the slide open. I also have several factory STI 140mm mags that will lock the slide back with factory guts. I tried some aerrodondo followers in all mags and it did not work out so well. so.. I would like mags that will lock the gun open. I think that the consensus would be to put Grams followers and spings in the tubes along with Dawson SNL pads on the sti 140mm tubes and SVI tubes to get max ammo. What do i have to do to get the gun to go to slide lock with these combination if at all possible. As things are the SVI mags with ???? followers will lock the gun open with ammo in the tubes...i dont think thats good. I think my ejector might be loose and contributing to this problem which i know i need to fix or replace. jon

So there i was on gun broker and found a nice slide complete with .40 S&W & .38 super barrel (both with bushings), springs, mags and extractors. Im not certain what i plan on doing with this as i don’t need another pistol, but what’s need got to do with it after all. Both barrels are fully supported and are standard or non-ramped barrels so i think i need a standard slide. I would like a SS frame to match but they are a little harder to come by. Based on research im thinking about a caspian ss frame with checkering or the race ready setup with the built in mag well. Question: If i want to run this gun as ESP with .38 super in minor do you think i will run into a weight issue with the built in mag well frame? Question: If i cant find a SS frame do you think the standard steel frame will come close to matching the SS Slide? I know you don’t have a pic of the slide so i ask you to use your experience and imagination. Another thought is to bore out the .40 barrel to 10mm and not run this as play gun. Question: Are there special considerations for running 10mm in a 1911? Question: Do you think that the caspian frame will hold up to full power 10mm? I dont expect to shoot all day with full power 10mm but i would hate to crack the frame. I understood that in the past, or possibly now this could be an issue. Final question: Provided this slide fits on my existing Springfield, STI or kimber frame guns is there any issue with running two slides on one frame. I know fit might be an issue but could this use degrade accuracy of my current slide/frame combos? I’m an experienced shooter but i have never built a 1911 or played with .38 super or 10mm. Tanks. Jon

i have to run them hot to get my 5" ar to work properly. I have a 9mm buffer and standard springs in the carbine with a spikes bolt and barrel, mag block and mags.

Im having some issues with a 9mm 5" non pro. WIth apex sear and dak. I get some light hits with anything other than federal primers. I called S&W and they are sending me a new stryker. The gun is a year old but i think i have the old style as i have a two plastic cup retainer on the stryker spring.

Anyone know round abouts how much were taking to work over the trigger, polish and chamfer a 625 from any one of these fine smiths?

I load all my ammo to include 1000 yd stuff on a dillon 550. Run it first time with only a size die. Tumble off lube and trim in a girud. Prime with hand primer or use press and weigh out charges and use press to seat bullets. Same runout on 550 as rcbs rock chucker. Dies float but everything centers up. I have shot several 200's at 1000 with ammo loaded like this and more 100's at 1000 with a 6.5x 284. Its not that much faster than a single stage but a little less brass handeling as you only have to put cases in, not in and out.

123 and 125 bullets are close enough in weight to use data. 125's are likley .308 and your 123s would be .310 or .311

Don't remember who has it but you can find 1x sized and trimmed cases for .07 each. I would not mess with the steel cases but know people who have reloaded them just like normal only with more wear and tear on dies and cutters. I never had good luck with any Privi bullets in .223, 62 FMJ or the 75bthp.

I think that TAC will be a little slow with the 52g bullets. Load and shoot. If your cases look a little smokey its an indicator that that you might need a little faster powder. Lighter bullets will normally give you a little less recoil and work a comp better but there is no comparrision between light and 68g+ bullets at range or on windy days. at 300 yds you almost have to use 2X the wind that you would need with a 77g bullet.

Reloader 15 is the single most accurate podwer that i have ever used. I would venture to say that the standard load for 68-80g pills in .223 used for highpower is 24-25.5. RL-15 is the benchmark powder that i use to guage other loads against in terms of pressure, accuracy and velocity. If you look around you can find RL15 pull down powder.

I went with the 5" 9mm for production. I believe there is a 5" .40 non-pro model out there. I found that i replaced the sights, trigger and added a "bump kit thing" to my gun. I saved a few bucks over the pro model and i think i came out with a better gun. If i would do it all again i would go with the .40 and shoot produciton with .40 minor loads in the gun.

24-24.5 RL-15 or about 24.2 N140. Both are longtime favorites for 77's. 77's are not going to make it to 1000. you would need 75 AMAX or 80 sierras to get there.

Go with a BTHP match bullet 73-77 for magazine Midrange work. Laupa are the best in my oppinion but are expensive. Sierras are great bullets and Bergers; which now cost what sierras do. Try RL-15 with rem 71/2 primers and go from there. Trim cases and dont crimp.

Only when you trim. If you are shaving bullets and they still shoot I would not worry too much; you could run into a risk where you shave a big chunk off if things are extreme and the round would not chamber.

I agree with some others, powder is a little slow for 55's out of a 16" and its the unburnt powder thats eating the thing up.

Try your same load and all: Bump up .2g at a time and shoot same target at 100 with crono readings (known as the ladder method). I found that benchmark was very consistent with velocity as well as groups. Look to find a sweet spot with velocity and groups and go with that load. I dont remember what load i was shooting with benchmark in a 24" .223 winchester but groups and velocity were all very good. Jon

Aliants new PP 200 states that its good for heavy bullets in .223/5.56 but there is no data out there. This past weekend i loaded up some ammo. Rifle AR-15 20" Krieger 1-8 service rifle barrel. Case new LC with 7 1/2 primers Sierra 77g seconds 25 2600 25.3 2650 25.6 2700 25.9 2750 Groups looked ok at about 1" or a little more on a windy day at 100 yds No signs of excessive pressure and 25.9 filles the case almost to the neck. I dont have all the data here but I think that ES was about 50 fps with 25.6 and 30 or so with 25.9 which leads me to believe that this powder likes to be run hot. Its supposed to be a little slower than RL 15, one of my all time favorites for heavy .223, and somewhere a little closer to RL 17 or N150. Its a ball powder so there are some advantages over RL series if it works out. I'll keep everyone updated.

ALCON, Looking to play some cards while im up there FRI night or SAT after the shoot. If anyone wants to play let me know. There are several casinos in the area. We can throw cards and talk guns....better than basketball at the table. send me a message Dauntedfuture@yahoo.com Jon

Anyone hear about the latest match status? I know there is lots of smoke in the area. I sure hope that or fires dont affect the match. If anyone has info please

ALCON, Looking to play some cards while im up there FRI night or SAT after the shoot. If anyone wants to play let me know. There are several casinos in the area. We can throw cards and talk guns....better than basketball at the table. send me a message Dauntedfuture@yahoo.com Jon

I ran into the same issue with my M&P. Went back to factory striker springs and federal small pistol primers. Problem solved. jon

my .02: I would look at three types of ammo if you can reload. As cheap as you can get, short range match and LR match ammo. You can find 55 fmj to load for about .065 each. Throw in some surplus powder and you are off to the races for about .13 each or something like that. For SR match i would try something like the hornady 55 sp or another bullet from a premium maker thats .13-15. I would find another load with 68-77 (.20 or so each) match bullets for long ranges. 24.5 RL15 is hard to beat with 68-77's. You will need to test your gun and ammo and critical to mission success is 100% reliability with no blown primers. Load and go shoot. jon