jimbullet

A bit curly question: Very little experience in pulling a 2011 apart but wanting to replace the main spring from the factory standard 19 to 17. I have watched some videos on how to disassemble a 2011/1911 but that suggests taking the whole thing apart. Not really wanting to do that as it is only the mainspring that I am after. Wanting to keep it really simple and not wanting to remove what is not deemed necessary. So my question is, can I simply take out the main spring housing, by removing the pin near the magwell and slide it out, replace the spring and slide it back in, without remove the leaf spring, grip safety and other parts? Would it be that simple or is it , by removing the main spring housing, the leaf spring would then jump out and therefore will require me removing the grip safety anyway to align the whole thing up again? By that way, I have a pinned grip safety if that makes any difference.

Can you post a pic? Most front sights typically have a hole

You could polish the contact points but take care not to remove metal. I dont think (and others could correct me if I am wrong) that polishing the disconnector and the trigger bow helps on reducing trigger pull weight but what it will do is make sure they all run smooth. I think tinkering with the main spring weight and the leaf spring could have some effect on reducing trigger pull. I will stop here as I am no expert on how to bend the leaf spring to achieve a lower trigger pull.

I don't do it very often, but on occasion when I happen to have a jacketed round in my range bag, I'll run one through the barrel, and it usually cleans everything out. Is it safe? I think it depends on what kind of leading in the rifling you are getting. If it's the kind that can usually be pushed out with a few swipes of the brush, then there should be no problem running a jacketed round through it. When I get the kind of build up that takes a lot of work to get out, I don't feel so comfortable running a jacketed round through the barrel. Keep in mind that what may look like a bunch of lead in the barrel could actually be carbon, burnt powder and other crap, and may not be leading. The really hard leading, the kind we need to be concerned about, usually takes a long time to build up. You should start seeing it before it becomes a real problem. Be prudent in inspecting the barrel, take note of what is going on, and you should be ok. How long are we talking about if the pistol is on a steady lead projectile jacket at a major power factor? 1,000 rounds?

I use heaps of lead projectiles and I had thought, given the fouling lead causes, that it is a necessity to clean the barrel after at least every say 500 rounds. I use a brass brush head with a plastic cleaning rod. Following this thread and even Brian Enos himself said, that they dont clean the barrel itself but rather only the chamber, will that essentially be the same if I am using lead projectiles? Copper projectiles, i.e. FMJ, CMJ's do not produce too much fouling in my experience - hardly at all but lead sometimes is seen on the edge of the rifling grooves. I used to after every session just shoot a couple of FMJ's which made the bore relatively clean enough, but someone told me that by doing so, you are increasing the pressure in the barrel as the projectile is pushing all the lead and fouling which could be dangerous. Any thoughts?

Maybe try to shoot with black iron sights and see how you go as this will force you not to instinctively go to a "red dot" sight mode.

+1 on 11 coil as I think the 13 coil is meant for open guns where round count go over 20+ rounds in a mag.

I appreciate all your inputs. I havent really thought about that (trigger freeze) as I could almost with certainty that I had released pressure on the trigger and restarting my squeeze for the next shot. I'll give this a bit of experiment next Im on the range. On one note, I got a 1.08 sec on a double trouble stage as my fastest without any hitch earlier this year. Maybe so it could just be the way I have not released enough pressure during a recent level 2 IPSC match. WES777, I am curious how did you get to reduce the trigger reset?

Hi Not sure where to post this question but here goes: I've got an an STI Edge 40 for IPSC standard and pretty much off the box. After several level 2 matches, I have noticed that I am able to squeeze trigger for the next shots at very close targets faster than the gun could complete the cycle - In short, no bang and have to reset trigger and squeeze again. My question is, will changing some parts make the pistol cycle faster at warp speed? So far it is out of the box with the exception of having an FLGR with an ISMI 12.5 lbs on it. Ammo I use has a PF of 180. If changing some parts would make it more better, can any of you suggest which ones? I thought whether changing to an EGW sear and D Koenig low mass hammer will improve lock time. But surely that alone will not make it better.

That is the whole point of trying to get that extra round, which in some instances (not all) may become an advantage.

This might be a dumb newbie question about the recoil master. I got my Edge for a couple of months now and coming from the old 1911 pistols where shok buffs were installed as they were meant to take the beating off the frame/ slide, extending the life of the pistol, I was wondering if I should be thinking of putting a shok buff on the recoil master? Then again, if I did, the whole thing may not compress. So would it be correct to say then that with the recoil master, the full weight of the recoil impulse is indeed battering the frame/slide?

How so is the green not better - is it not bright enough? Does it flare? I have been considering to try out the green but havent done so and would be interested whether it does or does not work..

Why duller?I thought the idea was for it to light up like a Christmas tree. Its good only if it is a crisp bright but if it starts to flare, get fuzzy due to extreme brightness, then its no good.

Generally, is the green less bright than red (or is it the other way around)? How about yellow? I have had red only because that is what it came with my sights but beginning to think perhaps there might be a less brighter color I can use as the red just seems very bright for me.

Maybe some lube will help? Just a drop and keep at working on it...

I finally gave in and got the grams follower kit and put it in my STI 126mm mag tube and it is still a 17 round reloadable....similar to when they had bolen guts. I was hoping to get 18 rounds reloadable. Anyone share a secret here? My configuration so far Grams guts STI 126mm mags IPSC wedge basepad - JR Speed brand

Nice Bong...

I think Glock shooters also put the trigger relatively closer to the joint as the factory trigger weight and the contour of the trigger too. I found my trigger finger placement is different when shooting a glock and comparing it to shooting a single action trigger, i.e. 1911/2011 triggers. The M&P would have resembled a similar trigger characteristic as that of a Glock (?)

I do a few dry fire drills just to hone my draw and sight alignment each time and practice my reloads.

Interesting topic as I am also in the hunt for a pistol that I could compete with in IPSC classic division. So, we can use a 9mm chambered 1911 here too?

I was also told that a 40 S&W is more forgiving if the extractor does fail (not sure if that is true or not), and is still likely to eject the empty casings each time, though may throw them erratically in different directions, but at least it is less likely to create a stove pipe situation or worse a failure to extract altogether, unlike with a 38 super. I guess rather than spend the money on installing one, I will just bring with me a spare extractor to a match for now. Thanks to all your valuable inputs as they were all very helpful. Cheers

Thanks for all the tips, I will give this a try and will put loctite on it too. Guncat, Im not too sure how I could "bend" the ends of the dovetail as suggested though, unless I remove more material on the sides of the sights' dovetail, which is worry some...

So an aftec would not break apart? I'm mindful that it has so many parts and the more parts I thought its more susceptible just like what the para did with their power extractor which I had to replace with a single EGW one. I feared that this being not a one piece metal might fail. Anyone experience failure?

If budget allows you could get the Dawson tooless so no more paper clips. Also some have beveled FLGR heads for ease to remove with compressed spring.

This may have been a topic somewhere but just wanted to know if aftec is a drop in part for an sti 40 edge? Is it really that better or will an ordinary single piece extractor do ? In planning to get a spare extractor for matches and was thinking if I get an aftec or just a standard one. If the normal one will work then I wouldn't really want to spend much on an aftec and use the money for ammo instead.