jimbullet

Im building an open glock using a g17 and have most of the parts installed already. Comp has 2 ports at the top and one on each side, similar to the carver comps.I thought I describe it if it is of any help. I am wanting to build up a load for speed/ steel challenge matches and wanting to start out with factory ammo running power factor of 125-126 thereabouts. My question is, what spring weight would be recommended. The gun jams on 17 lb and on 15 lb. Has anyone tried the zev 12 lb springs if they work? I would have preferred the ISMI 11 lb springs which were recommended but they simply are hard to get by in New Zealand. Whats so far available is the 12 lb and 14 lb ZEV recoil springs and so I just thought if anyone had experience if they worked on your glock open pistols.

Your extractor does not have adequate tension. A quick fix is to bend the extractor and I think if you search around there are heaps of instructions on how to acheive this. Failing that, get a gunsmith to do it for you or buy a new one, which you still need to adjust the tension anyway too.

Waiting on new spring which I am hoping will solve the problem....I have never thought that I ever needed to change this spring.

The heavy spring could have had enough force that minimized the effects of an existing fault elsewhere. When you reduced the recoil spring weight, that was sufficient to strip the round alone from the magazine, the problems start to manifest itself. So it could be the extractor, the feed ramp, magazine combination together with the type of ammo you use. Try round nose and fire it. If the problem goes away, then you know its not the extractor, but more of the ammo, feed ramp combination. If it persists, then you can look at extractor and the magazines as well. My two cents - isolate the cause first before tinkering.... and yes, lubricate the gun. 1911/2011 pistols like running with generous oil on them (not dripping though)

What guide rod is that? It is possible that it might be out of spec? Have you not used a shokbuff or some sort?

in most cases, look at the magazines. They are typically the culprit of most things. Does it happen on a full mag, half mag full and not when there are 2 rounds left?

Hard to get one of these nitro fins. They seem to be out of stock most of the time...

Funny enough Chuck, there were 30 people at that time watching on that stage where I had that issue! With cameras too! Should the catch have a certain length to it? (Dumb question but I have no clue on this)

I've checked this and yes they do appear flush. I also recall this accidental mag drop happening to me on the first mag on a stage, where I had all the time to seat it properly, heard the click and to double check, gently try to pull the mag out by pinching the mag base and if it is seated properly it shouldnt let go, which in this case it had not. But it was on that stage where it dropped on me only after firing 7 rounds.

I have had some issues lately where my magazines are falling away without me intentionally pressing the magazine button. This has so far happened twice on me during a club match and on a practice run, both in different magazines one was after only 3 shots and the other with the mag half full. I've looked at my grip and tries to simulate it by rubbing my support hand if that would trigger a release but it does not. Mine is a standard STI edge (unmodified). I have read a couple of threads here with some saying that it could be a simple change of the magazine catch spring or replace the magazine catch itself. My question is how do you know whether the magazine catch needs replacing? I would not have a clue what to look for even if it stared at me. My grip does not have any cracks as I have inspected and have taken out the magazine catch which again, I cant really say if it is worn out or not. Any guide would be appreciated.

Go for a combination that is light enough to make for those quick draws and transitions. I suspect 5 inch is a good compromise in this respect while the 6 inch may just be too heavy.

I want one...... what no stock!?

I do par time on a phone timer app. Start long then shorten by 0.1 and see if I can still break the shot within the par time trying to speed up

Since you have used the 15# main, did you change any of the other ignition components like firing pin, hammer? Does it fire 100% or did you experience light primer strikes. I am considering to put 15# but mindful that Im not changing any other parts at the moment.

Thanks, I'l try it out on the range next weekend.

Thanks guys...as for mags, I bought 5 of the STI original mags and thought that they would work 100% given STI mags for an STI gun. I have not made any modification on the STI mags at the moment. You think that the stove pipe would be due to the mag? What do I need to do to the mag to avoid a stove pipe/ The extractor appears to have the right tension as it does hold a live 115 gr 9mm ammo and even if I shake it, the round wont budge and in fact does not move at all.

What about the main hammer spring? Did you change yours? I feel the trigger is a bit heavy and thought of reducing this as well.

Would that cure the stove pipe?

One other thing, the current set up, having a heavy trigger with a 13 lb recoil spring has had a stovepipe at every last shot in each magazine. Not sure whats causing it but I figure it would be the spring combination...

Got a 1911 9mm STI Spartan intended for steel challenge. The current set up is all stock with the exception of a recoil spring which I placed a variable 13lb Wolff. I've got a few questions: 1. For 9mm minor loads, what do you recommend to use as a recoil spring weight? 2. The trigger is very heavy too - not sure what STI has put in there but what do you recommend. Can I use 15 lb main spring without experiencing light strikes?

I've got an STI Edge 40 cal. I am wanting an STI Edge in 9mm and just occurred to me that both of these pistols are almost identical. So is it possible to just swap the top half and get them going on the other frame?

Sounds promising. So none of you made any modification yet? Would any of you suggest to have any work done on it or it is great as it is?

Would the need to replace recoil springs become less frequent if you had a shok buff installed? Also, I heard about these new aluminum buffs, not sure if they are any better than the traditional rubber like shok buffs. I bought one and have yet to try them out. The only thing I noticed is that they appear to be tight and does not sit flat on the head of the FLGR unlike the shok buffs. I got scared to shoot it that way so havent tried it yet.

I have been thinking of purchasing a RIA 2011 9mm pistol but have not really had the opportunity to look at it up close nor have had any feedback on its performance. Any of you own one and can comment on what is your impression, how does it perform, is there any modification you think is essential to get it up and running reliably for competition? I have been thinking of whether I can buy a brand new RIA 9mm or wait for a used STI in 9mm. Primary purpose of the pistol would be steel challenge shoots and perhaps some IPSC

Um mushy feel? what I was trying to achieve is reduce trigger pull weight without loosing crispness.