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Yeah, I looked into upgrading the handguard, but really the new one is already pretty nice and fits me just fine. Besides, really the only one out there I liked better is the carbon fiber Isler, but it only saves ounces, and for the money, I'd rather buy ammo lol. You can get the o-rings at Lowes for a couple bucks, 1 or 2 should tighten it up nicely.

Hmmm this is something I was wondering about too... the SA break on my S2 is far enough back that I’d thought about trying a 97/“Thick” trigger at some point to push it forward a tad... Think I’m gonna shoot it for a month or so and then revisit whether I still want to go back to the S1... I actually like some aspects of the S2 like the larger grip and higher grip cuts, but it still feels like a beast, maybe that’ll change...

FYI/FWIW: If it ends up being the over-travel screw (or really even if it isn't), I'd say this: There are really only 2 ways you can prevent that little screw from biting you in the ass sooner or later and eventually ruining a match day... either (1) decide you don't care about a little extra over-travel and remove it and throw it in a trash can, or (2) Red Loctite it, adjust it correctly, and forget about it (resigning yourself to the fact that you'll need to put a soldering iron on it for a minute or two if you ever want to adjust it or remove it in the future)...

Thanks for the reply. Yeah, I searched the topic, and just seems like more people are making the S1 vs S2 comparison based on making weight for Carry Optics (seems the S1 is much easier to get there as it doesn't require the extra milling an S2 does). I'm just looking to hear some opinions as it pertains to just iron sight/Production type of shooting. I tend to agree that I really ought to be asking this question after a month or two of shooting the S2 instead of just a couple weeks... I guess I may just get used to the added weight and not even notice it after a while. I bet part of my problem is I'm coming from shooting a light weight Glock for a while, with my brain already pre-programmed with muscle-memory knowing the SP-01/S1 and thinking of that as "heavy"; whereas, the S2 brings "heavy" to a whole other level that's new to me lol.

Recently picked up a Shadow 2 after getting back into shooting the games again after taking more than a few years off... I was a relatively early adopter of the original SP-01 Shadows and had a few of them that I shot a bunch between 2009-2013, which I sold off to buddies in order to train with the Glock exclusively because that’s what I had to use for work. After getting back, and getting more than a few matches under my belt, I missed having a nice trigger and not having to work so hard to make difficult shots beyond 15yrds, and wanted a CZ again, deciding it might take me more money in practice ammo (and of course time) to get as good with the Glock as I was with the CZ’s, and honestly just wanted a better blaster lol. Shadow 2 is/was the new hotness so I went with that, thing is, within days I ended up doing all the same mods I’d done in the past to SP-01 Shadows: springs, thinner front sight, hammer, disconnector, clean-up/re-profile sear to eliminate the hammer-camming, blah blah blah... The S2 is still way new to me but I’m having a hard time getting used to it: it’s a beast, like boat anchor heavy, and I’ve handled a few others before buying and never noticed the checkering, but the one I’ve got has to be the sharpest checkering I’ve ever felt on a pistol, it draws blood, it’s like mine was made the day they put fresh cutting blades on their machines at CZ lol! (Most people handle my stippled main Glock and say “ouch”, so I’m no stranger to an aggressive grip texture) Anyways, my buddy bought a new SP-01 Shadow about the same time I got my S2, and I helped him out tuning his up with the usual stuff... and his S1 feels so much lighter and balanced... thinking I might like the original better (or maybe it’s just muscle-memory). So anyone out there prefer the S1 SP-01 to the S2? Am I just crazy? Should I give it more time to get used to it? IDK... Thanks.

Hiperfire is supposed to be releasing their new PDI triggers in the coming weeks and they’re listing them at $180MSRP... so “street price” should be close enough to $120 that it might be a great option? I spoke to one of their reps about them, and he mentioned several times that them being “PCC tough” was a huge focus in their design...

I’d try backing out the over-travel screw... if it’s not that, then it’s a perfect time to learn how to detail strip it lol You don’t have to take it all the way down honestly, but taking out the safeties and sear cage will let you make sure everything is in order

If the trigger isn't doing anything wonky and you've checked out the disconnector spring to make sure it's legit, I kinda doubt it's that, lots of us on here with PCC's run Hiperfires so they're kind of "known quantity", and with the Hiperfire's, the lighter the trigger pull means you're using the heavier springs... Personally, I've only experienced burst fire when playing with buffer setup stuff, so I know that can do it with some recipes. It occurred to me that maybe your problem is two-fold or 2 separate issues: Maybe whatever buffer setup recipe you were using where you got burst-fire just also happened to mask a feeding issue because it was cycling lightning fast? And then when you put in a different setup that slowed things down to not burst, a feeding issue was revealed? FWIW, I own a Foxtrot Mike upper/lower as a backup w/ a hiperfire and it runs like a watch using traditional buffer setups (works with a .308 carbine spring + 6.5oz buffer + bolt weight in, runs with the .308 spring + 8oz buffer + bolt weight out). That said, the FM lower holds the mags up pretty high (higher than most lowers out there), so I wonder if your lower and upper just aren't getting along? And just in case, not to be captain obvious, but you did remove the weight out of the FM's bolt right (you're not supposed to run JP SCS setup unless you remove the bolt's weight)..?

Bare-bones: extra slide-stop, extra trigger return spring, extra fiber (and tools to swap the TRS if you’re unlucky enough to have to do it at a match, the CGW free-floating trigger pin IMO is worth every penny if that ever happens, makes it easy and you won’t need a )

Almost sounds like your over-travel screw in the trigger may have moved..? When you say “clean” do you mean just a field strip, or a detail strip?

I think I'm going to have to shoot mine some more before I decide if I want to swap out the rear sight. It could just be the case that I haven't given it a chance, since every other pistol I've shot has had a square rear blade and the S2's profile is just new to me...

Cool. Was that pic taken before or after you widened the notch? Thanks.

Trying to decide if I'm going to change out the stock S2 rear sight to the Zendle sight; I'm kinda thinking I might dig the square rear profile a little more than the triangular-ish profile on the S2's stocker... has anyone tried it..? Any other rear sights to consider that fit the S2? (Already swapped out the stock front to a .090 Dawson right off the jump...) Thanks.

Appears it's got all the same changes/upgrades as the "Gen3". Looks like a a great deal as compared to the PCC "competition" version at $1200 vs ~$1600, and cheap as that bag may be, at least it came with one, I didn't get a bag with my "competition" model. Especially if one was already planning on upgrading the trigger right off the jump anyway (the Timney that comes on the "competition" model is pretty good and certainly useable, but IMHO a Hiperfire is nicer). Plus, you'll probably be able to sell that PDW stock and red dot pretty easily to one of the legions of Timmy's that tend to make up most of the MPX buyers and get some money back to make it an even better deal. I'm sad I slept on that deal, hope it comes around again soon. FWIW, I wouldn't sweat the flash-hider too much vs a comp/brake, IMHO it's debateable whether the one that comes on the "competition" model does much besides look trick being out at 16" shooting 130-150pf ammo. Oh, and if it bugs you, you can easily tighten up the fit of the hand guard by using 1 or 2 small rubber o-rings over the "nipple" that interfaces with the receiver at the bottom of the handguard...

Are you running 5 weights (running short-stroke), or 4 like JP's "normal" 9mm assembly..?

I'm not trying to be snarky or argumentative here, but I was having trouble grasping the phenomenon you're describing with 9mm rounds shooting so high at 100yrds that one would have to hold at the bottom of a plate rack (say 3 feet-ish low) to hit a plate... because well, physics. I think I get what you mean by "crank the dot down" (i.e. dialing elevation to bring the POI up/down to match POA, hit "x" when aiming at "x"), but since height-over-bore is taken out of the equation once set at a given zero distance, that really shouldn't have anything to do with anything... and since trajectory is trajectory and ballistics is ballistics, and we know what an average 9mm round is going to basically do trajectory/ballistics-wise: the only explanation for what you're describing is zeroing at like 5yrds, not 10-15. In fact, with my load, if I zeroed at 5yrds I'd be 34" high at 100. I'm not debating what's the most practical or efficient zero, because I don't think there is one; it's up to the individual and one's own personal preference. Of course one could argue that a 25yrd zero is best, but only if that individual doesn't mind printing low and having a hold-over on everything out to 25. To each his own. But one preferring a closer zero in order to not always have a hold-over to factor and usually be between 2 inches up/down on the majority of targets isn't wrong either.

Rang steel at 100 a few times for fun, just aimed and heard "ping" didn't even think about it.

IDK mang. Zero wherever you want as long as you know your hold over/under's with your gun/ammo... it's just personal preference and remembering not to forget about your sight-over-bore distance. Personally, for USPSA, I run a 15yrd zero because on most stages the majority of targets are going to be bewteen 7-20yrds, and a 15yrd zero puts me at just about an inch low at 7 and an inch high at 25 with my setup (-/+ 1.3" to be exact), so I don't really need to think about it much as long as I do my part. YMMV. That said, IDK where you're getting "3ft high at 100"..? My gun/ammo setup with the same 15yrd zero puts me only 1.2" high @ 100yrds. The bullet does start to drop quickly beyond that though, so I would be about 2.5ft low @ 200yrds, one hell of a holdover (but still probably a doable morter-shot on a man-sized steel plate with a few tries lol). I don't reload like most around here, mostly shoot the Federal Syntech USPSA/PCC-specific stuff at matches (130gr 1140fps, 148pf out of a 16" barrel supposedly), which is still soft AF out of my MPX, but probably a bit hotter than some. Even if one was scraping the power-floor (say130-133pf) with a 15yrd zero they'd still only be just over an inch low/high @ 7 and 25, 2.5" or so low at 100yrds. http://gundata.org/ballistic-calculator/

My rail is mlok, so I stick those BCM mlok rail cover thingys so my hand/palm is on it with my index finger indexing the empty mlok slot just in front of it. Skateboard tape is also great, if your rail isn’t covered in pic rail, you can just wrap it around where you want your hand to go, and then use a razor blade to cut out the slots so it doesn’t look ratchet AF.

As mentioned, these are mostly intended for PCC's for when guys are adding extensions with far beefier springs to get 47-60rds. Also mentioned, these will probably wear on a polymer mag release quick. For a pistol? IDK. Cheap, reliable, headache-free mags is IMHO one of the Glock platform's best attributes... I've even got a pile of the Magpul ones that have seen thousands of rounds and drops without a single issue, and at $10 a pop are basically disposable. If I need metal pistol mags, I'm shooting a metal gun (and CZ mags are $25)...

Intersting... Taccom seems to make great stuff, but I've read a few different posts from MPX guys having issues with their MPX buffer-cushion thingy or it not really doing much.

If I were going to start another blowback build I’d echo this ^^^ I’d only add by saying spring for the newest short-stroke version, so if you ever want last round bolt hold open capability you’re already squared away. Budget choice would be the Foxtrot Mike bolt, solid and under $100 when they’re in stock. But, that said, there’s a lot to be said for “buy once, cry once” with a lot of this stuff...

The TTI +10’s are gtg on OEM Glock 31/33rd big sticks, never had an issue (I will say load ‘em up and leave ‘em for a couple days when new though). IIRC, @maxamundo was selling some TTI +10 ones with slight cosmetic defects at a discount a couple months back, maybe you could inquire on chasing down some of those? Lots of the Limited guys around my area run the TTI and/or TF base pads for pistols and don’t seem to have issues. Really out of all the base pads out there, the only ones I’ve seen guys have issues with is the Goliath, seen them go salt shaker a few times, but 50rds is pushing it pretty hard, so there’s bound to be some extra tuning involved with those...

Yeah, EOTech’s don’t work with my eyes at all, and I need it to low mount anyways which EOTech’s don’t really do (MPX, needs to be closer to AK-height).

Yeah, that’s what I’ve been using, seems they’re the best at green + clear true 1X glass right now... MRO still has magnification