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Before I took the deep dive into MPX-land, I tried more than a few of the systems out there for blowback AR9's including the JP SCS system on the expensive end, and just a heavier buffer (12oz) on the cheaper end... the Blitzkrieg/Kynshot + orange Springco spring worked and felt the best for me with the least messing around.

Thanks for sharing this

Sounds like that spring may be overly stout... If you have one kicking around, you might want to try a normal/regular .308 carbine spring as that’s what’s fairly usual in most blowback AR9’s, or even a Springco blue spring if you have one of those, also/or, if you can remove the weight from the bolt fairly easy you might wanna try that (sounds like your spring is certainly strong enough to run without it and it might help with dot movement). There’s quite a few things you could try, but I’d try the free stuff first before you start buying stuff

So I'm getting the sense that the bushing isn't a "must do" unless there's lots of play in the OEM bushing or the gun has seen a ton of rounds? I mostly run 147gr/150's @ around 130pf and like that recoil impulse, but every now and again when I think the gun's accuracy is off or groups are opening up, I start thinking of trying the 10X bushing... then I shoot some 124gr stuff, the groups shrink, and I go "nope, it's me" lol.

Mine is the side-charge 16” upper with their stripped lower that I put together using their buffer tube kit (.308 carbine spring + 6.5oz buffer), and even with a decent lower parts kit, picking BCM furniture and adding a Hiperfire trigger, I still came in under $1000... I can totally recommend going that route. The side-charge is definitely pretty cool to have, but thankfully it runs, so I don’t have to use it too much

Thanks for posting that, appreciate it. I know it's only a vid of 1 of 1, but looks like I'm sticking with my Reflex model until I maybe get to try one out in the wild... (although now that I said that, it means my disconnector will die tomorrow because MPX lol)

There are more than a few ways you can put together a solid performing PCC for $1000, though just as was already mentioned, avoid anything that has too many proprietary parts on it or you may find yourself stuck down the road... and sticking to one single manufacturer for lower/upper/barrel usually is the best recipe for reliability. For someone new to PCC I always recommend the Foxtrot Mike stuff because their lower is as good as anybody's no matter what you can afford really, and for the money their stuff is quality (they actually license their design to a few higher-tier manufacturers like Wilson, PWS, etc). I have a spare/loaner/backup AR9 PCC built from an FM lower/upper/barrel and it just flat out runs. I pointed a buddy in their direction a couple weeks ago who didn't want to build one just yet and wanted a complete, and he got their "3 gun PCC" and a couple mags from Primary Arms and he's been digging it for under $1000. It comes good to go, even with quality furniture you won't have to swap out.

Yeah, I reached out and got a similar response asking about the new PDI vs the Hipertouch series 243G/Reflex I've been running... Honestly I was thinking I'd switch to the PDI because I know the the MPX will eventually beat the crap out of the disconnector spring in my 243G. That said, I've got a few extra disconnector springs kicking around already if needed if/when the trigger starts acting up, but was happy and surprised to discover that my original disconnector spring looks just fine after about 7000+rds on it from the MPX and probably another 4000rds on it from the AR it used to live in previously, so guess I'm already squared away My 243G is as good as I could hope for really: zero pre-travel, zero creep, 2lb glass-rod crisp, awesome reset. I'd highly recommend the Hiperfire's to anyone, makes the Timney that came stock in my MPX PCC model feel like garbage (and that one is really actually pretty good).

Wondering if anyone has played with a Bull Shadow S2..? 48oz with a stock mag, betting it'd be knocking on 53oz with brass grips and a base pad and not sure if it'd be Production legal... but giantist of the giant lol.

Before you go too crazy trying to track it down, maybe just check the cam-pin, make sure the bolt is slick and the piston is dry, and run a little factory 140ish pf stuff to see what it does..? I treat mine terribly and hardly clean it but I usually run stuff that’d be above 130pf out of a pistol, so probably more like 140-145ish pf... just guessing but I think the hotter stuff might help in blowing crap out of the gas system that might otherwise become an issue... IDK, just any easy one that might be worth a try? Good luck.

If you mean by getting a “click” that the trigger has reset and and then hammer is falling, then it sounds like it’s not going fully into battery again. This could be one or all of these things: you need to run the bolt more wet, need hotter ammo, or your gas piston/rings are gunked up. The MPX will let the hammer fall but won’t set off a round if the bolt isn’t fully closed, like if you don’t rack it snappy enough at the beginning of a stage, ask me how I know

Thanks!

Well, you're not the only weirdo then, here I am posting about finding the right trigger to push my CZ's SA-pull a bit forward/further out, yet all my 1911's eventually end up with the SVI/Infinity Short-Flat insert... so I get it lol.

Thanks for the heads up I can deal where it breaks now, but it isn’t ideal for me and more forward would be better, guess I’ll live with it... I may end up going back to the S1 too at some point...

I don't know how to do that, whom to go to for that, or if it's even worth the trouble if CZC's "original" 85C trigger is close enough? Tok36, that said, any chance you could tell me if the CZC Original 85C trigger would move the SA position a smidge further out versus the Shadowline trigger that comes stock in the S2 (I know they're basically the same shallow curve because of a helpful pic I found that you had posted a while back on another forum, but can't tell if it'll increase the SA reach a bit, which is what I'm trying to accomplish)..? You might be able to save me $50 finding out the hard way in case there isn't any difference lol...

^^^ cool that it worked out a bit for ya. It's a small change, but having the Tanfo spring add a bit to the wall really does seem to make the SA feel crisper if that's all one is looking for... pretty sure the happy side-effects I got as far is it making my DA and reset feel a tad better too is just a product of gun-to-gun tolerance differences and luck. Like you mentioned, I think everyone has their own "subjective crispiness scale" as far as what they prefer, and I guess sometimes it's not all about sheer trigger-weight, getting the feel right is an important component to a nice trigger.

Cool. Interested how these compare to the Hipertouch ones..

Funny, just saw that and was editing my comment as you posted lol!

I was going to say something snarky like it sure would be cool if JP would just release something less-gimmicky, like maybe the slimmer m-lok rails they were talking about a year ago, but it looks like you can finally get them so good on them.

Beyond a bunch of dry fire, I've only had a chance to shoot about 300rds with the Tanfo spring, and so far it seems to work just fine and feels great. No bad behavior at all, pistol functions as normal. Adding a bit to the "wall" is a great way to describe what it feels like it does.

This thread kind of put the light bulb on for me as far as running coated bullets through the MPX... never really put too much thought into the gas port in the barrel getting crudded up, but after scraping all the crud off the comp a few times, I think I’m going switch to jacketed only. Makes sense to me that shrinking the gas port while rounds add up doesn’t seem like the best plan lol. Granted, I haven’t had any issues with mine at all (knock on wood), but I’m not a religious gun cleaner either, so I don’t want my laziness to catch up with me. I’ve still got about 600-700rds of the Syntech 130gr kicking around that I’m still going to shoot up, but after that I’m going to jacketed in the MPX (and if/when I can ever buy ammo again LOL that’s what I’ll be buying to feed the MPX). Anyone have any good tricks to share as far as getting the barrel’s gas port nice and fully cleaned out and debris-free?

You can get a sheet of Jessup grip tape from any skateboard shop or order it online for like $5, it's the best. 1 sheet is enough for like 5+ Glocks or you can just change it often if it gets banged up or dirty.

Congrats, they're cool guns, and they'll accept most of the same hot-rod parts the Shadows/CZ-75/SP-01's use if you ever feel like upgrading the trigger... IIRC the one thing to be aware of with those is some of the magazines out there that'll work and function just fine may not drop free in a Phantom, so before you buy a bunch of mags you might wanna do a search so you don't pick up the ones that don't drop.

That's a sick looking rifle! I just looked ICRW up after seeing this, and was surprised to see their prices are so good, looks more expensive lol. Between the ICRW stuff and newer Taccom 10/16 barrels it's nice to see some of these trick looking things be so reasonable on the wallet hahaha! And I totally agree with what you're seeing with the Romeo5 and other similar-sized sights... if one shoots both eyes open FOV is infinite and the sight-body disappears. A bigger window might be easier to get behind sometimes (especially if mounted closer to one's face than further out on the rail), but mounted up in the right spot window size doesn't make much difference. When companies advertise bigger-window equaling bigger-FOV it's pretty much just marketing-hype (because it's only really true if one is using a dot wrong and not shooting both eyes open). Having zero-magnification and getting the dot mounted at the right height/distance is far more important than window-size IMHO.

Yeah, it's definitely worth a try... I've swapped the springs more than a few times now to make sure I'm not crazy and actually am experiencing what I'm experiencing, and my trigger-reset for sure feels better with the Tanfo sear spring, its no contest. I'm loving what it did to both my SA and DA pull: the SA feels so much more like the often described "glass rod break" most of us are after, and the added weight in mere ounces isn't even really perceivable when talking 1.75lbs vs 2lbs. If anyone has ever felt what trying a stronger hammer-spring (like a 16lb vs 13 or 11.5) does for their SA's break, making it seem more crisp, the Tanfo spring feels kind of like that... except the DA doesn't get any heavier like it would using a stronger hammer spring. Still don't know why, or if I'm just lucky, but my DA got better and smoother as well as a happy side-effect.