spook

Thank you very much Sascha! Useful info. I will just use the guns with only one extractor pin until they break (I have not found any real ill effects from shooting without them BTW).

Man, that is a really cool thing of you to do! I am a big friend of animals. I wish more people were so nice to animals. Sweet cat!

No problem

Hahaha, quit dry firing. Jeez, the thought alone gives me the creeps I think it will take some time before I get it done, but I'll post it in this thread. Thanks again for the advice

Hi Spook, if you want to, I can ask Ralf - he´s working with these pins also on new revos he´s building. best, Sascha are you now coming to our nationals? STI Open was pretty a lot of fun with the swiss guys in one squad - there was only a dutch guy missing.... Hi Sascha! It would be awesome if you could ask him. He's like the Randy Lee of Europe PM-ed you on the German Nationals Bjorn

Thanks for the fast replies RGS, what kind of Armorer kit are you referring to? pskys2, unfortunately sending anything to S&W is not really an option since I am in Europe and it would be a major hassle (especially if it happens more than a couple of times). Any idea how to get the stuck part out? Drilling?

OUCH! I feel your pain. I got a 150 grain "leftover" from a 180 grain .40 right in the sternum once. It hurts and makes you a bit jumpy for a while. Definately check out the plate rack!

Hi everyone, I just found the perfect EPP (European Police Parcours) revolver. A great looking M15-4. It looks great and there's not even a line on the cylinder from the cylinder stop, so I figured it has hardly been fired. The only flaw it has is that one of the extractor pins (the two small pins on the cylinder that hold the extractor in place on the old S&W revolvers) is missing, or broken. I broke two of those pins on my old 625 dry firing it and my current 625 also has one broken off. Which made me think that I'd better learn how to get the old broken pins out and how to replace them. Are they intergral to the cylinder, or are they a replaceable part? If replaceable, how do I get the remaining piece of the broken one out? How do I fit the new ones and does S&W even sell them as a loose part? Any info about these interesting pins is more than welcome Thanks!

Sounds like Sam could become the next generation of Eric Grauffel meets Jerry Miculek I wonder how good he will be when he's 18!

Sweet! Congrats man!

Damn fast! Smokin'!

Harmon, I emailed Frontier and they told me US shooters should contact Black Hills (see couple of posts above) for Frontier selling shops across the US.

With any gun, I want 100% reliability, decent accuracy, a decent trigger and good sights. Hell, I can get that with a Glock a $40 pair of sights and 10 minutes of Dremeling People get the idea that if something "feels" lighter/better/softer/faster, it actually is lighter/better/softer/faster. Two things matter in this game, points and time. I doubt that spending more $$$ will get you more points and less time So my advice would be go for a the cheapest competitive factory gun and make sure it runs 100%

Spook, I'm also having problems with Berry's 180gr hollow points in my SV AET Sight Tracker. I've already put about 2000 Montana Gold and another 1000 or so Zero JHPs thru it. I had been sitting on the Berry 180gr HP's until I ran out of the others, but after hearing about everyone's problems I decided to load up a 100 and test. I shot a box of 50 and they looked like a shotgun pattern on a 8x10 target at about 30 feet. Very depressing. Normally I'd have a small ragged hole at that close range. I also have some 180gr flat points that I loaded up but haven't tested yet. As soon as I test all my bullets (.38/.40/.45) I'm going to call Berry's. -Cuz Cuz, I don't know much about the Berry's. I just know some shooters that ran them in their guns. From what I've heard their plating is very thin. Are you using a lot of crimp? I make sure (especially with plated bullets) that (like IAN27 points out) there is no real crimp. Crimping can cut the plating too. I think it's the No1 cause of trouble with plated bullets for most shooters. Most of us don't have those cool AET barrels I'm curious what Berry's will say about it. BTW, is your AET barrel TiN-ed? If so, it could take considerabley more time to lap it for plated. That TiN is as hard as a diamond.

Heheh, I like it

JaxShooter, The AET barrels (especially the TiN barrels) are most common "plating cutters". The good news is that you will probably be able to shoot plated with no ill effects after "lapping" the barrel with about 2000 FMJs.

Flowing means continuously being

IIRC, Rainier used to buy directly from Frontier and sold them as Rainier. The site (www.frontierbullets.co.za) says this is the distributor for the US: USA Distributors Black Hills Shooters Supplies PO Box 4220 Rapid City SD 577094220 Tel: +1-605-3484477 Fax: +1-605-3485037 e-Mail: mundon@bhshooters.com I'll ask Susan down at the Frontier Factory who else sells them in the US.

Sweet looking blaster!

Thanks for the fast feedback guys! Yeah, my guess was that a 1050 is hella faster.

Straightshooter, approximately how many could you do per hour?

Hell, just European Countries would be a feast Scored a 98% 3 miles and 174 seconds today Had to place Colorado first I wonder who will post the first 100%

What happens this: The plating acts like a jacket. Once it is cut all the way by two lands a little strip of plating will loosen itself from the bullet and act as a little "wing" steering the bullet of its path. You can see this on the target most of the time. The wing will leave a mark.

That cracked me up man Sorry to hear though...