Alan Adamson

As you can see, it came out quite nice Alan

All, Figured I'd share. I have a Z6i and wanted a Scope throw lever for it. In searching around and talking with others, it seems that it's a pretty close match to the Kdot lever. I talked to Chris at 3gunstuff.com and bought one of the Kdot cattails. It took a little tweaking, but really not much as it turned out. The diameter of the Z6 is just a smidge larger than the Kdot, and also the tab on the zoom ring is different. The Kdot has a short flat tab, and the Z6 has a taller one that also tapers from the front of the zoom ring to way behind it. This meant that I needed to grab the dremel and just put a little bit of a taper on the notch where the tab goes in the tail itself. Basically I put an angle on the notch from just at the edge of the closest hole to about 2/3-3/4 the way up the flat that makes up the notch. From the following pictures, you should be able to figure out what I did. That last thing I did was to get some nylon flat washers for 2-56 screws, these are the type that have a little X cut in them and are meant to be pressed onto the screw such that they don't come back off easily. 2 of them between the 2 ring halfs was all it took, this allowed for just a little compression of the rubber, but no significant binding of the mechanism. I probably need to put a couple of strips of double sided clear tape on the tail halfs and put this together one more time, but for now it works perfectly.

I think I'd be more inclined to think about the expansion and contraction of the composite frame vs metal slide on an Open Glock than I would be the loads based upon your description. Or perhaps it's a difference of heat between a cold and hot barrel and that thereby warming the slide and not the frame. I know lots of guys who shoot open with metal guns and if its really cold and a really tight gun, they don't function very well at all until they are warmed up. But it's just a working theory at the moment, you'll have to explore it more to figure it out. However, that's where I'd look. I know Boz here in GA, and I've experience pretty much the same thing. Those that shoot hs6 have zero temp issues with it... YMMV, Alan

Thanks for the comments, those are actually really noteworthy as well. I figured that as long as I was doing load development, I'd use others experience to pick the best of the best. Sounds like I may have done that somewhat on accident . But as long as I'm doing load development and haven't ordered up a bunch of powder, perhaps I'll find something better. Gas for the comp is in interesting topic... and I assume you can't judge it by looks... Just happens that I got my headset cam back operational. Here is one of my better efforts on a 32 round comstock indoor stage at our local weekly match... Mind you we are really challenged for space, so we do the best we can in a small area... Anyway, it's in HD and you can see the gas coming out of the comp, which is pretty clean, not much flash... this is AutoComp btw. Enjoy, Alan

Great info, you are right where I started... At least from a research standpoint... And then along came AutoComp. And while I hate say I have a bias, from all those that have been where we both are, and then tried, it almost every single one says it's softer, clean, and as accurate as the ones we've both mentioned. I will tell you this, I shot about 700 rounds of AutoComp in my MCG gun, and I never cleaned it at all during that time. When I was done, I put a few drops of KG-1 in the comp, let is set and wiped out the residue. I had one spot where I had to get some caked carbon off, but really it was remarkably clean. On the converse, I cleaned a gun that had 1000 rounds of true blue shot thur it and it took me a week to get the comp clean. Now with that said, my MCG gun is fully ionbonded, so perhaps that's a little easier to clean. If you get a chance, I would really like to compare notes with you on an AutoComp load. While I'm at 1.175, I've found that between 7.1 and 7.2 of AutoComp behind those 124 MG's at that oal with regular spp work just fine. In fact, I've not shot any SRP's in either of my guns, CCI spp work both perfectly. If you can, borrow some and give those a whirl, would love to compare notes with you aftwards. It too bad that HS6 is so dirty, it does keep coming to the top of the heap, it and true blue... Dang, beginning to look like no true winner here... but that's probably good and bad, means lots more choices and lots more choices . Thanks and please update this thread when you finish your testing... I'm going to run some AutoComp, N350, and some more of the commercial powder thru a chrono this week, just to get the final load development done on those. Alan

JT, a friend of mine bought my 550 so I could upgrade to a 650, and he we setup his press with a redding or an RCBS, can't remember but one of those that was a seat and crimp die. I'm not 100% sure, but I think most of the seat/crimps are roll crimp type and not exactly what you'd want for a pistol case. Good luck, Alan

I've got 7 diff powders that I really want to try in 9major to find the one that I'll just standardize on. I've been shooting 2 of them for 500 rounds or so and really can't tell that much difference. (mind you, I'm a pretty new open shooter). I've shot a commercial winchester powder and Autocomp, both drive the comp really well, and make 9major with no problems. However, the question becomes, I need to standardize on something and get some powder ordered and is there something better - the search for the holy grail it would seem . Perhaps this is a chevy vs. ford question, I really don't know... I have 1lb each of the following and while I could load up a couple hundred rounds (there simply is no way to tell shooting 10 or 15) of each and then shoot them, I figured I'd see if there was any consensus among the forum users. I've got the following - 3n37 - hs6 - n350 - autocomp - silhouette - true blue Both my open guns are 5" non poppel, one from Derek at MCG and one from Jojo at JVDynamics, they both shoot very similar and run 100%. Ok, so if I wanted to throw out 60- 70% of the above list and only focus on best of the batch for 9major. What would you not mess with and what would you spend time with? I'm shooting 124g MG JHP or 125g Zero JHP at 1.175 oal Thanks for helping... I could burn a bunch of time doing this or maybe I could get some advice from the user base and save me some time. ps. So far, Autocomp has been excellent... I have tried a smidge of 3n37 and true blue just to get a major PF load developed, but I've not shot anything of any duration or substance with either. Ok, so help me out! Thanks, Alan

I think it was knifekits.com or somewhere I saw a video of how to make a knife sheath. They looked like they used a scotch-brite wheel in a bench grinder to finish the edges prior to molding, looked like it made quick order of the edges too. Alan

Just yesterday, Uniquetek posted an updated free tips document that included a description of the various lubes. Only noteworthy between the two, the new pump takes longer to dry before use. But I've not tried the new version (supposedly better for the environment and easier to ship). Alan

I modified the original draws that I did to better support the radius on corners and I looked at a Ready Tactical version and modified the bottom where the bullet lays and the wrap around the belt. Version 2's here PDF version 2 DXF version 2

My nickel says for that price, you'll have a line waiting to hand you money! Alan

YOu'll have to check, some 90 mounts are set further back to the rear (Quinn for example), but even Matt's 90 I think would work find with Poppel holes... you may have to remember to clean the scope between stages however, as it's a bit further forward than a Quinn mount. Alan

2 quick responses - This topic has been hashed to death here on the forums, just use search, you'll be amazed. I was, and resolved most of my issue as a result - I had the exact same setup for the exact same reason. Came from Dillon all setup right - WRONG. Read the setup for pistol cases about 2/3's way thru the manual and then check your swaging station, mine wasn't even close and as a result, the shell plate was buckling from the swaging ram (the upper support ram wasn't even close to the bottom inside of the case). Especially with crimped brass, if you don't get a good swage, your primer is doomed, more importantly your whole press is when you light up a full primer tube because you crush one and set it off. Lastly, to verify, find some non-crimped brass and try those, I'm betting they will go thru just fine. Alan

If you can sketch the orientation for more than one on a sheet, I can give you a dxf or pdf of the multiples that would maximize the sheet usage. Easy enough to clone and reorient on a page. Alan

I was bored, so I just stuck this in turbocad... Here's the DXF if anyone wants it.. and I printed it to PDF as well. Either should work as a template or if someone has a cutter that will take a dxf file, this should work. Mind you it's specific to the mag that was being used in this thread so other mags will need slightly different dimensions. Note, I radius'd all the corners and I didn't know the actual angles on the angled cut, so this may need some tweaks. DXF File PDF Version Alan

Here are some pictures of the first Quinn racking lever, it's since been revised to be slightly longer and also a smidge more forward on the angles. Hope this helps. Alan

My mind is drawing a blank at the moment. They were MRbullet feeders but I believe the name changed. PM me..tomorrow I will look it up at work as I have the name and ordering info on my work computer. KISS bulletfeeders. Geez....I must be getting old. Such a hard name to remember! Thanks! Just to clear the air... Originally they were called the Kiss Bullet feeder, they are now called the MR BulletFeeder at (www.mrbulletfeeder.com). Check with Rick there, he's been awesome to work with! Alan

Can't remove the rubber, as the aluminum that it attaches too is recessed to accomodate it and there are molded Pins that are a part of that aluminum plate that extend into the rubber pad... I think I'll call magpul and see about getting that other part... Thanks for the replies, Alan

yep, they do, the dot and lense is still in the same orientation to one another so no difference. Alan

Most of you know that when Magpul redesigned the PRS stock, they included a rubber shoulder pad at the butt end of the stock. This differs from the original or Gen 1 version, where that was an all aluminum plate. The issue with the new style is that if you are trying to quickly pick up your gun to shoot a stage, target, etc, the rubber pad grabs all your clothing on the way up and is always slowing you down. I wonder if anyone has done or might be interested in doing, a screw/bolt on aluminum plate to replace that rubber pad, thereby aligning the Gen 2 more closely with the Gen 1 for ease of draw, etc? It should be pretty easy to craft one, with the right tools, using the rubber one as a template. I know, I'd be in for 2 of them if anyone could do it and it wasn't astronomically priced. Anyone know of or have the capability? Alan GEN 1 GEN 2

Ah, but there's always the *fun*, or *cool* factor, for some worth the price of admission.

But wasn't that for a 650 and the question is for a 1050? Alan

Jmorris, did you see the video above? There seems to be no side load on the press itself, the auto operation is all via the up and down on the ram, you need to see the video thats posted above, it's much more descriptive than the pictures. Alan

This mod *will not* work on the 550 as is... the 550's star, doesn't have a hole large enough for these washers. Uniquetek.com has an upgrade for the 550 with a new star that fixes this issue. Alan ps. If *anyone* buys one from ebay for $12.95, they need their head examined... I figured all this out, see the other thread and you can buy the parts for $4.25 from McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com)... PN's and info in the original thread.

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