Alan Adamson

Thanks Corey, kinda what I figured, just didn't wanna go cutting til I was sure, I'll mess some with it tonight later. Alan

Just to a Springer all done up... but have an issue that i'm sure I can remedy, but needed some direction. With a Wilson 47NX mag (we're talking .40 here), the mag inserts no problem and drops not problem, but some brand new Tripp 10mm System mags, will not insert, it seems that the radius on the mags at the point where the mag release hits them are dramatically different between the Wilsons and the Tripps. If I ever so slightly press the mag release button the Tripps will insert and they drop free no issue. I think what I need to do is bevel the mag release on the insert side to allow for the difference in radius on the mag tube so that the Tripps will insert. They hit *hard* and no manner of mashing them will seat one (when done slowly), if you nail one from about 2" out, it will seat, but I'd rather not have this issue at all. I'm too used to seating 2011 mags and I'm sure this will get in my way. Anyone seen this, or have a recommended amount of cut on the mag release... or a picture of what they did? Thanks in advance, hope I've described it correctly. Alan

You'll get 1 more round with SC and adding an SNL pad will also help. Folks are always going for that extra round and I try to convince people that reliability should never take a back seat to capacity. Learn to reload, it will be way more valuable to you than 1 extra round. 9Major and SVI tubes, so your mileage may vary, but 29 easily with a 3mm Bolen base (can make 30 work, but never do as too hard on springs), and either bolen or grams guts on a 170. 24 easy, but usually use 23 reloadable with 7mm Bolen bases or +1 SNL bases (bolen a little easier) - maybe 24/25 with a grams 11mm base, never tried one. And thanks Bobby for the hand delivery at A6, they are awesome and work perfectly! Alan

Ran 7.16gr behind an MG 124 JHP @1.175 in mixed headstamp brass at the South Carolina Championships this past weekend... Chrono said 173PF in 70 degrees of temp. Will run similar at A6 this weekend... then might play with something a smidge lower. Seems to run the comp really well. These were in a 9mm Major gun, full length with no poppels. Alan

Alan, Just curious: How did you determine the 75%? The match scores or the Ohio Classifier Calculator? Later, Chuck Yes, I know it's not completely accurate, but I used the classifier calc... it's proven about 80% accurate, but I'll wait till it hits this weekend and see what happens... will be a bummer if it doesn't take... and there is no need in calling uspsa just to say "oh, but the classifier calc says...." yeah just look at your strange and say uh-huh... nice try beside, they don't seem too keen on that classifier calc anyway.... Alan

thats kinda where i was going, just didnt know how to say it, haha. If everyone's scores are wacky high it may be because the stage wasnt set up the right way. If everyone else's scores are fairly "normal" it should be ok. Ive heard of thigns like this happening before and that was the result then Thanks, not sure that makes me feel any better... it was a classifier that we don't shoot around these parts very often and one that's not that hard to setup it was Hillbillton Drill for reference. I was beat by 2 GM's and another limited shooter, a B class, shot it just short of my HF, but overall all the scores looked pretty normal as scores go for a classifier that is paper and steel from a box, with a reload in the middle. Suppose we'll see, I guess the person entering at USPSA who deals with classifiers will make that determination of A or Y? Alan

Ok, so I get the fact that a classifier won't count if it's below 5% below the bottom of your current classification. But, what happens in this scenario? I'm current at 53+% as a C open shooter, I've shot some 60+% classifications, and some 50's... my most recent one however was shot at 75% which is 2 classifications higher than my current classification. I've heard that it might not be entered due to this fact? Basically I shot an A level classifier, when I'm only C classified. I also won Open at that match, mind you it was a local match beating A and B shooter ... every once in a while I get lucky. So, while this classifier hasn't posted yet and will in the months updates... I'm just curious, will it count? I hope it does, not that it moves me to B or anything, but it certainly helps me get there. Thoughts? Alan

I know asking this question means my hand is raised - buy heck you already know that... Mark, what does it take to put this date in cement instead of quick sand? Alan

All, I'm going to post Mikes email address. I probably have a phone number, but it's better not to give that out just yet... Drop him a note, he may take a day or so, but he always got back to me. Alan Mike Fleury - mikefleury at imageindustries dot com

Ya, I'd agree if it weren't for the fact that USPSA signed a multi year deal with the LV place ... Oh, well, we can dream right. Alan

There is lots of information on Autcomp in 9mm... Major that is... I run around 7.16gr at 1.190 oal in a 9Major gun with a MG 124 JPH, makes 170-1 PF and shoots nice. That in a 5" gun with no poppels. Alan

The superswage 600 needs an adaptor to swage 9mm? just to take the slack out of it... I just rummaged thru a bunch of brass and found something that I cut off that would fit the shaft on the 600 and adapt it to either 9mm or 40 and take out the play... That's all I did before I got a 1050. Alan

You can send me the Nato brass with crimped pockets, they go thru my 1050 just fine and with a swaging station built in, the come out just fine as well, perfect for the next guy .. Oh, and don't forget to run a big magnet over most all your 9mm brass, I'm probably running at about 2-3% of steel cases, that are actually brass colored, these don't go thru presses very well and they don't reload at all... Be advised, mostly S&B headstamp, but a few others as well. Ps. before I got my 1050, I made a little case adapter and have swaged both 40 and 9mm on the dillon 600 swager (which is primarily used for .223, but works just fine with case adapters). Alan

Your testing numbers are right in with mine and I agree with almost everything you have stated. The exception is in the soft and flat. I found AA#7 to be a little softer and flatter than AutoComp. I am loading 7.0 AutoComp with 125 @ 1.160 and AA#7 at 10gr @ 1.180 with a 125. Both are right at or just above 170 pf. The MagTech SPP I am using were looking a little flat with the AA#7. You can bet the brass is a little streched but I just leave it for the vultures. Sunday at a match I ran out of my AA#7 loads so I had two mags with mixed up bullets, some AutoComp some AA#7. I shot the mix in the last stage and never noticed any difference. Ronnie, That's really good to know... it could be this gun as well on the felt side... It's a bit heavier than my MCG version, one uses a bull barrel/comp the other a cone comp. And they both have different comp designs.... However, in shooting AC, I find the dot track better in the JV gun than the MCG version, it's pretty much straight up and down while I get a bit of side to side in the MCG version, both with the same AC load - hence all my testing of late is using my Jojo gun.... I'll move back at some point just for a reference. Alan

I've shot the above from about 30degrees F to 75degrees, nothing too hot yet. So far, not seeing any temp stability issues, but still need more data there. Alan

I'm really not an expert, as I've simply been doing this far too short of time. However, I ran a couple of tests as well - just felt tests - in a 5" no holes, 3 port, 2 side port comp gun. I ran 10 each - 7.16g AutoComp, 10gr AA7, and shot some rounds from AAA that I'm fairly sure use a commercial powder from Win called 248. I also ran some 7.2g AutoComp All my rounds were in WCC brass - all casepro sized prior to reloading with 124g MG JHP bullets CCI SP Primers @ 1.175 oal All the above but the AAA rounds were *hand trickled* and triple checked for powder weight, all were then seated and crimped on a Dillon 1050 with Redding comp seating and dillon crimp( just to take the bell away) All made 168-172 PF in my gun. Just some observations while shooting on the chrono. AutoComp 7.16gr High: 1381.0 171.2 Low: 1353.0 167.8 E.S.: 28.0 Ave.: 1370.1 169.9 S.D.: 8.5 95%: 6.7 AutoComp 7.2gr High: 1405.0 174.2 Low: 1347.0 167.0 E.S.: 58.0 Ave.: 1383.4 171.5 S.D.: 15.4 95%: 12.3 AAA Ammo High: 1394.0 172.9 Low: 1334.0 165.4 E.S.: 60.0 Ave.: 1366.3 169.4 S.D.: 15.8 95%: 12.6 AA7 High: 1391.0 172.5 Low: 1346.0 166.9 E.S.: 45.0 Ave.: 1357.7 168.4 S.D.: 12.4 95%: 9.9 NOTES: a) the most consistent in E.S and S.D was the 7.16 AutoComp load, it was also almost dead nuts on the 170 mark that I wanted in my gun the softest feeling of the bunch was also both AutoComp loads (note I didn't say *flattest* feeling) c) the AAA and AA7 rounds were significantly *harsher* in recoil d) neither AutoComp loads showed any signs of over pressure, the primers were still rounded on the edges e) both the AAA and the AA7 rounds show a very small amount of flatting on the primers, still rounded, but you could see a noticeable different between them and the AutoComp rounds. No of these rounds showed any extreme pressure signs f) the AA7 rounds showed a little bit of bulging on the sides, but this was inconclusive, it happened to also be approximately consistent with where the sizing mark was on the brass, so it made for a bit of an optical illusion - more testing needed I'm not a good enough shooter (C - very close to to judge *flatness*, I also have been shooting AutoComp for a few months, so it is somewhat ingrained in my muscle memory. I also didn't run enough of the AAA or the AA7 to answer the clean/dirty question. AutoComp is very clean and while about every 500 rounds I need to clean the comp, it's a fairly simple thing to do. As another point of reference, this gun is a Nov 09 new JVDynamics 9Major gun. It has something less than about 1K rounds thru it... probably not even broken in. It also runs all day long on an 8lb recoil spring. Just figured I'd share, Alan

I found this a while back as well (also looking for AutoComp). I found the differences vs the majority of other charts out there odd as well. I realize that there are certainly differences in how things are compared that create differences between specific resources, but most other charts out there are more or less agreeable with each other. The placement of some of the Hogdon/IMR/Winchester powders on this chart seem just odd. Interesting in what sense? In the sense of where it fell in the chart... Most have said that it's way too fast to be used (altho I've been using it for months). Alan

Finally found a burn rate chart that lists AutoComp. http://www.hodgdon.com/burn-rate.html However whats so interesting is how dramatically different it is from other versions. For example, compare it to this one. (which btw, doesn't include AutoComp). http://www.reloadbench.com/burn.html Means picking a powder replacement *isn't* as easy as picking a similar burn rate powder ... But what is interesting is where AutoComp turned up on the version that includes it. Figured I'd post for others reference. Alan

So I have 2 open guns from 2 different smiths. One the front bushing in the grip (the little tiny one), is snug, I won't say tight, but the flanges of the screws on both sides are touching the bushing on both sides and it's slug in the grip, no side to side movement, etc. However it is not *tight*, but that's because the width of the bushing is preventing it from being tight. The other, there is probably 1/32-1/16" side to side play when the screws are bottomed out on the bushing sleeve. I can literally slide the assembly back and forth once the screws are tight against the bushing. How are these suppose to be? Is the bushing suppose to be trimmed such that there is no side to side movement? And are the suppose to be tight such that you could not rotate the screws due to a slight amount of compression? I don't know if these are simply an alighment type device or a accuracy/shootability type device? Anyone care to comment? Thanks, Alan ps. again, this is the little tiny bushing that holds the front of the grip to the lower frame.

Make sure that when you set the powder funnel, that you do so with the press fully loaded and the handle all the way down, leave the 2 screws loose just like the instructions say and tighten after you have the handle down. It might have been that you didn't have the powder measure all the way at the top of the powder die and it just *slipped* up there by loosing the bell. Alan

Wow, figure out some way to automate a case feeder, and you'd have a pretty slick setup. This is way too cool and way to easy for me to have thought of, found from another friend.

Seth - I have had no issues with Dykem in about 20k rounds. I spray them including the primer. I use the schueman method of bore cleaning, I shoot rounds down it. I do clean the gun after every match with CRC Non chlorinated break cleaner and give one pass down the chamber/barrel with a patch. The firing pin and aftec get a shot of clp. Our local ranges sell brass for $0.10 each and you have to sort them yourself. We have two indoor but no one goes there because you must buy your ammo from them, one is BassPro. Just to chim in on the brass price topic... 9mm brass around here, is $25/1K, pretty close to what Seth had suggested. But alas, let's not start the 9mm/38S/SC/TJ war again... does it really matter, we all shoot what we want, because we wan't, it's been proven time and time again, that either can win matches, and both are shot alot... K, I call *uncle*. Alan

Ah, ha... perfect, I wondered, and you provided the answers. Care to off the basic dimensions of the Delrin block? Thanks so much! Alan I've got 6 of the Mt Man (or whatever they are called) setting right here and yes they are *heavy* with out being loaded... so this may be an good alternative

I notice that approx 50% of the SB brass that I see coming thru my 9mm process is steel and not brass, even tho its colored as brass. There is no other markings that would tell you that it's steel, even the *ring* of it sounds like brass, but it isn't... That all get's chucked ... the SB's that pass go right thru either my 650 or 1050 .. Alan

Shaun, Can you take some more detailed pictures of the carriers, specifically the bottom and sides and how you did the pocket curves to hold the shells from coming out the bottom?? Those look great, what did you use for belt attachment, they kinda look like tek-loc's, but not quite... Alan