Alan Adamson

I'm kinda thinking that is a typo and should be 8.0 grains??? 9.0 is almost 10% higher than anything else I've *ever* seen posted for HS6 in 9Major? Alan

Paul, That's good news in a way, at least we know it's stable at those pressures... back off to 7.2 and start again, I'm betting 7.2 will put you right in the ballpark. Alan

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=113070&view=findpost&p=1282789

We have been looking for ways to generate continued interest in Practical shooting, offer some competition, and create a team approach to the above with a self financing cash payback mechanism. We didn't want to go to a points system as they are simply too complicated. What we've come up with is as follows. Potentially, you could do this at any match as an overlay to the division/class scores and the USPSA software already supports the basic model of scoring and teams. Here are the basic rules. a) teams are made up of one shooter in each of the following divisions (there are simply too few of Revo shooters to be included, but could be if you have lots of REVO shooters) - OPEN - LIMITED - LIMITED 10 - PRODUCTION - SINGLE STACK a given team can only have one A or higher classified shooter on it (in whatever division they are shooting for in the team) c) as a way to promote less experienced shooters, we've also added a classification point total to be used in building a team. To do so, you have a given set of team classification points that you have to fit your total team within. 14 classification points are allowed per team and they are factored accordingly. This has nothing to do with scoring, only in how teams can be built along with the above rules. - GM = 6 points - M = 5 points - A = 4 points - B = 3 points - C = 2 points - D = 1 points You add up the 5 team members classification points and it has to be 14 or less... e.g. team A with 1GM, 1B, 1C, 2D, 1U would be 6+3+2+(2*1) = 13 classification points or team B with 1M, 2B, 1C, 1D would be 5+(2*3)+2+1 = 14 classification points. This disallows super teams from being created and helps to level the playing field among the teams. Unfortunately, you have to disallow U shooters because you could have someone who shoots well in one division, be unclassified in another. You could override this if you know your shooters and allows U's... this would bump each point value up by one and you use 19 instead of 14 as the total classification points. d) lastly, gun substitution can always be used to fill the 5 divisions. A production gun can be used in limited 10, limited, or open for example, but at minor PF. One exception to this rule and just for this team approach, is the Single Stack division. If you can't get a 1911 to shoot single stack, you could substitute a different gun (OPEN excluded) as your Single Stack entry, magazine capacity has to be maintained with SS rules and Major/Minor applies as well. For each stage shot as SS without a 1911, however, you incur one procedural penalty. To make this interesting, I would suggest a cash payout scheme based upon team match point totals. The Ezwinscore software already supports this. There is a tweak you have to do to make it work because the software wants to have an alternate on each team. So you have to enter a fictitious REVO shooter and put them on each team and then just DNF that shooter each stage. This is because the software only uses the team size - 1 in totaling the scores and the low score for each team member gets thrown out - the fictitious REVO shooter becomes the one that gets thrown out. As it relates to costs for the cash payout, I would recommend a $5 fee per team shooter ($25 per team) to be paid to participate, and then a payout similar to what you do in a specific division/class... Minimum 3 teams for Match Team winner, 7 teams for 2nd place and 11 teams for 3rd place. Just cash prizes. If 7 teams, pay out would be 60/40 1st/2nd. If 11 teams payout would be 50/30/20... Payout would be as follows. That's the amount the team gets to split among its team members. So there ya have it.... the only issue I see is that the funds would have be paid the match following unless you decided to live score an outdoor match, which I can tell you is a bunch of work... trying to build, shoot, score, is a RPITA and I wouldn't recommend it. The mechanism is very simple however If you see major flaws let me know... .we've only tried it one time and while it worked, we conceptualized the classification point afterwards and it's going to help us stratify the teams for next time. (thanks Gerard!) Alan

Ok, so this has been bugging me for some time, but I just never thought to ask... First, this has *NOTHING* to do with the brand of mount, so don't take the tread in that direction. I shot both a QII and a CCG mount on 2 different open guns. I do it, because for me, I can index the dot better and still retain the ability to do the same with my iron sight gun - but that's just me. On to the question. The Cmore is basically designed to be mounted on a straight up mount. The flex in the lens for zero adjustment is a hinge mount in that direction... There are 2 hinges one on each side of center. I've wondered for the longest time if one mounted on it's side (a 90 mount) is harder to get low dot movement in because the percussion forces are flexing the up and down direction against *no* hinge in that direction and only the twisting motion of the hinge 90 degrees to the percussive forces, with only the stop screw for any form of a stop or motion limited in that direction. I wonder if that induces some *twisting* motion in the dot. Maybe causing a swirling effect to the dot? Anyway shot enough of an Alchin vs. a 90 to know if the Cmore gives better dot track due to the way the hinges works for up/down vs. tasking one to give up down on the windage side? Bet put, if you could get a Cmore with the up/down hinge rotated 90 degrees would that additional support provide a better dot track? Curious mind(s) want to know what others think Alan

Just another observation, If you want a mount that doesn't require as much modification, already supports the hole pattern and overlay with all the 5 hole alchin mount, and allows for complete adjustability forward or aft, upright or laid down... Try the DAA thumb rest, similar angle without all the customization required. YMMV Alan

Brian, try the search function, there is so much autocomp info here that it's not worth repeating ... Alan

I think it has something to do with how many GMs shot the match. I'm not totally clear on it, though. It seems to be pretty subjective, determined by USPSA HQ. But it seems to requires at least 3 GM's in the division, that shoot their classification. Beyond that it's pretty subjective. Also, the Match Director usually has to ask for this to be the case as well. (the match to count for a classifier). I shot the SC Championship this year, it counted as a classifier, I shot A6, it counted, last fall I shot the GA Championship, it counted, the nationals always count I believe. So it seems to happen more times than not. NOTE also, that you can be bumped a class if you finish better than one class higher than your current class in one of these type matches ... Alan

They are the Tripp 10mm/10 round mags, that the shorten slightly to fix the SS box, recut the basepad grooves in and change out the follower. in .40, you usually get 10 rounds, but they will fix the SS box. I've got a dozen of them and they all run 100% in 2 different Springers with SA Magwells... I really like them with that magwell, they stick out the bottom just slightly and feel like my Dawsons on my limited gun when seating... Never missed a reload with them. If you order them, just put "system mags" in the special instructions sections and order the 10mm/10 round mags. Or give them a call. Alan

I run 7.2 with 9x19 out of the same gun, OAL 1.118, don't have a solid PF yet I really hope that comment is 1.180 and not 1.118 (wicked short for 9mm). I was looking for those running more than 7.2... I run 7.1-7.2 all day long, but in a 5" gun (no holes), that's about 172pf and I was looking for a bit more gas... gonna try some 7.25, 7.3 and 7.35 to see what happens. Also going to try some 115's... We shall see...

Just curious, if 7.1ish gr of AC at 1.175 behind a 124/125g jhp gives 170-171 PF.... who has pushed it a little... I'm looking for 178ish PF just to look at how the dot functions? Thanks and let me know if you've pushed it a little and where you stopped/ended up. Alan

All, I wasn't feeling very creative, so I took a stage that was posted here a week or two ago and I plagiarized it... Hope the original developer will allow? ... At least I'm sharing the resultant creation back with the gang.... Oh, and I put it in Sketchup. Anyway - I needed a relatively low physical demand stage, that was high round count with some form of complexity. What I cam up with was to take Spread Out! that was posted here, add 3 more paper targets, move some of them around, and add a NS or 2 primarily to prevent a 180 break, but to also take away shot positions from the start and force the need to move around some. The results. 32 rounds, with the ability to increase or decrease the complexity pretty easily and setup time should be minimized. Start Position: Standing at the point of the diamond, outside the shooting area, facing downrange. Gun loaded and holstered per ready conditions 8.1.1 and 8.1.2 STAGE PROCEDURE: On signal, engage targets as visible from within the shooting area. SCORING: Comstock, 32 rounds, 160 points TARGETS: 14 IPSC, 4 Poppers SCORING HITS: Best 2/paper, KD=1A START-STOP: Audible – Last shot fired PENALTIES: Per current edition of USPSA rule book Notes to Construction: Verify adequate distance to steel. Closest No-Shoots will be positioned such that they partially block the arrays at the end of the wall from the start position, and prevent a 180 break on the double stacked arrays closest to the start position. Difficulty can be increased by moving the arrays at the end of the walls closer to the middle driving the shooter out farther to take the most inside target of each end of wall array. Notes to RO: Single Sheet version here

Spanky, as always another excellent stage.... However, you are *asking* for lots of RO fun trying to determine full diameter hits on those targets that are only available thru the small cracks in the forward corners, and lots of repairs on those walls from shooter to shooter. Just a thought. Alan

Usually, I shoot for 171+/- Alan

All, I may have found the issue... it appears that STI has changed the grip. I don't know if Bobby's picture shown below, is the small or the Standard sized grip, but my grip doesn't look like that at in the area where the mag release is, mine is much more of a *bulge* that is rounded, and and out. I'll try to get an A/B picture for comparison. Updated with the similar picture of my grip in this area. You can visually see the difference.

Thanks Matt! Always bailing me out with info Alan

I want to experiment with a second barrel and comp in my 9mm Open gun, it's a full length with cone comp currently and I want to try a second cone comp. I want to be able to switch back and forth with no issues. Is that something that can be done? I talked to one smith and he mentioned something about needing to touch the slide as in impact the existing finish as a result of fitting a second barrel... Seemed kinda odd to me... I'v read that there needs to be a slight angle put on the comp or the slide to facilitate lock up/down... So, bottom line, can a second barrel be fitted with a different comp on an existing gun, and both barrels be interchangeable in the slide - WITHOUT effecting the existing finish on the gun? I'd like to try a Brazos cone comp with a scheumann barrel, what I have is a custom comp on a Schemann. Thanks for reading, and hope someone can help me understand would would be required. Alan

Yeah, was hoping for other solution (altho I'm not sure what it would be)... I'd still like to use the holster for my limited STI as well... hmm... Thanks Dave Alan

Anyone running an RM holster with the B Aluminum STI (not SVI) grip? I have both and found that i the "shorty" version (only one I have) that the locking lever can't be engaged on a standard sized aluminum STI grip. This has to do with the fact that the trigger guard area has been changed with the AL grip and the bumps around the mag release button and above won't let the gun go far enough into the holster before the wings on the holster insert bump into the protrusions on the grip... It's short by about 1/8" or there abouts as seen by how far the manual slide screw is from the front of the holster.. Just wanted to see what other have done to remedy before I get my dremel out. Thanks, Alan

After *too much* messing around, I've got a trigger bar that seems to work and allow all the safeties, half cock, etc to work. It was an older SVI that I could *tweak on*, it had already been pretty heavily tweaked prior. This allows me to keep the one that I know works with the plastic grip intact and yet, try out this AL grip. Now to finish the assembly. While I ordered a VZ grips aluminum mainspring housing, it's gonna need some work too, it doesn't fit the contour of the double stack magazine well, plus it's lot at tall as the plastic ones that come with the plastic grip. Either are going to need the back of the grip fit to the mainspring housing, but for now, I'll use the one out of the plastic grip. Sheesh, for all those that say, oh, it's a pretty easy fit drop it.... NOT, it's probably taken me 10 hours of messing with and that doesn't even account for the time it took to fit the grip to the frame... BTW, this is a B grip ( the regular sized ones), and oh, for the records, STI claims that all the cracked ones have been the small version (somehow I'm not buying it), but anyway, FWIW. Alan

OK, please tell me how this is done. I have been trying to get directions for this for a while now. Yes, PLEASE do tell!!! Alan

Nope, it's bottoming out in the curved area where the radii are on the forward corners of the bow. I was hoping that it was hitting close in at the trigger insert holder, as I might be able to tweak a bow to fit if that were the case, but it's not, it's hitting right out at the front corners, just like the grooves were cut too narrow... However I don't believe that there is anything wrong with the grip, I just think that my trigger job and parts are matted for the plastic grip and I don't know how I'm going to re-use those parts in the AL grip... They have changed the look of the AL grip in the trigger area, forward of the mag release button and the curves where the trigger bot protrudes from the grip. You can visually see that change when looking at a plastic along side it... Hmm.... I was hoping that sear, disconnector, etc would drop right in, but perhaps not... I'm going to try a non-tri-glide SVI bow (the one I have is a tri-glide). We'll see, SVI used thinner material for the bow and with the little bit of the ball not being there, it might be enough.... If not, then the grip may need to be milled slightly and I don't have the tools to do that ... Alan

Ok, I followed some instructions on fitting the grip and that part was easy... but now I've ran into another issue. I have a tri-glide SVI trigger bow that came out of the plastic grip. But it seems that the groove in the new AL grip is cut differently than the plastic version, the bow, doesn't go as far fowards (yes, I have no amount of bend in the tang for takeup, it's flat to the bow). With the bow that came out of my plastic grip in the gun, I have zero freeplay (takeup) at the halfcock notch, and maybe about .020" at the full cock. Just for kicks I tried a real STI trigger bow, and it was a smidge better, but still the same issue. the bow probably sets .020 - .030- farther forward in the plastic grip than it does in the AL grip. Anyone else seen this issue? I really don't want to bend up the bow that came out of my plastic grip incase I have to go back there, I may be able to replace the tri-glide with a regular and see where that ends up, but it's still not going to be where the plastic grip is.... I'll call STI tomorrow. I knew that with the SV grip there were issues, but didn't think those same existed with the ST grip... Bummer... I wasn't anticipating having a spare bow around to mess with... Lesson learned... Alan

This appears to be a concern. Anyone else have the same issue? What if that happened at a Major while you were out of town? and no Ace nearby? While not 100% to the point, somewhat related, at least a way to get a longer bolt if you wanted... And an option to remove the large knob sticking out. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=108035 Alan

Ya might want to check that sentence above... "UNLOCKED the gun absolutely will not come out unless it's lifted 1/4" straight up. You can bang on the bottom of the grip all day, or yank the grip forward until your pants twist and it ain't coming out" If it's true as written I *totally* disagree.... Now, let' make sure we are talking about the *only* ghost you can buy the "super ghost" (doesn't use the pin you have to drill the grip for).... If so, if the holster is UNLOCKED, you absolutely can knock it out of the holster, in fact it take nothing to do such, the only thing that is holding it in is the slight amount of pressure from the big steel ball, which is rounded, on a spring, and only there for the retention when it is LOCKED. In fact, want to loose one when it's locked, just set down with it in the holster, and *rock* it backwards hard enough (like if you knee hit it on a setting start), and it will rock right past the ball and fall out backwards... Ask lots of people who have had that exact thing happen. Don't get me wrong, I shoot a ghost, but I'm always checking the little nylon screws to make sure they contact as they should as that is the only thing that will provide a bit of stability to at least make it act secure... I've recently switched to a Race Master, and there is simply *NO* comparison to the stability of the gun in the holster... NADA, NONE! Alan