Alan Adamson

Got any videos posted with it that way? My 720p's are all here... http://www.youtube.com/akadamson1 Current mount position for me is top of headset band, not ideal, but it works... may try the sordin trick, but was concerned that the angles would put too much tension on the mount... guess I'll have to look further

Just heard from Mike again. Closer yet again, everyone hang in there, I'm sure it will be worth the wait. Alan

Everyone who's on the list... Post here on contact with Mike and hopefully successful enroute delivery. I'll try to update as well once I know the pump is primed and things are flowing. Thanks to everyone! Alan

Figured I'd show the *after* QII and their new racker install ...

I change to the Quinn, because I can *never* find the dot on an Allchin. The dot sets too high to the bore. I've shot Limited for a year and plan to switch back and forth. The first time I picked up an Open gun that had an Allchin on it, I wiggled it for 10 seconds before I found the dot. Then I drew it and tried again, same problem. Again, same problem. Put the QII on it and the first time bang, found the dot immediately, second draw same thing. Nice to know on the ejection. I haven't really shot any 9 Major, or open for that matter, but I did work up a load with some powder that the guys around here use... It's a commercial powder that we get from Atlanta Arms. Good stuff for open and 7grs of it makes major with about 3/4 of the case full on a 9mm case. Behind a 124gr MG JHP, it's 170-171pf every time. JoJo, asked me for 200 rounds and so I loaded up what I thought was going to be 6.9 just to safe, as it turned out, I actually loaded 6.95+ so close enough to 7.0 that it made the same PF... Jojo chrono'd my loads while he had it. I went the all black route instead of the HC route cuz I kinda like the look of an all black gun. I've got some ideas for a grip coloring that I'll most likely do as well... I mean if you are going to get a gun from JoJo, ya better make it look the part right . But alas, got to shoot the GA ST match next weekend first, then switch to open... so it will collect a tiny bit of dust first. I should have the other mount and new racking lever on it tonight... I'll update the pictures cuz it looks *good*, course I own it ... Alan

I'll take some... All I did was use the google mount and tie wrap it to my headset band... ... Then I needed to make a little paper shim to keep the camera from juggling cuz there wasn't a goggle band in the groove. Alan

Ok, looks like it's time!!! I heard from Mike and his email is attached below. I'll be contacting each of those that have emailed me to gather specific contact info so that Mike can contact you. Yeah, finally! Watch for a contact from me if you are on my list. Alan

All, I did the ContourHD camera. Available now in 1080p, mine is the 720p version - http://www.vholdr.com All the videos but one on my youtube are with the 720p version, edited with Adobe Premiere Pro from CS4 Works great, is attached to the top of my headset and I'm most likely going to try it on the side of my headset just for kicks. Completely self contained and the 720p version will record in 720p at 30fps or standard def at 60fps Alan http://www.youtube.com/akadamson1

Here's mine. A brand new JVDyamics 9Major All Black IonBond with sliver accessories Soon to have a QII mount and racking lever (it was suppose to be here today! ). Enjoy Alan

I would be concerned that it would effect the crimp more than anything and as a result potentially effect accuracy. What I do is process all my brass in the tumbler, then every time I go pas the reloading room, I just throw 100 or 200 thru the Gizmo. I then pull from that box when it's time to reload. So far, I'm way ahead on full length resizing compared to reloads. Alan

One other comment on the Ghost. I've had the little plunger that sets behind the ball freeze up in the brass sleeve that it's designed to slide through. There is a *very* fragile spring under the plunger and then the ball sets on top of the plunger. You'll need to take that apart from time to time and clean it up with soap and water, and check the spring (btw, I've heard you can change it out for varying weights to allow more or less tension on the ball, but not tried it) to make sure it's not rusting and or broken. Then I cleaned off all the flashing from the molding process on that plunger and then sprayed it with a *dry* lube. Put it back together and it works great. If you find that the ball doesn't pop in and out as it should, you'll need to make the above change.

I believe the reason they want you to push the case through from the base of the case and not from the other side. Is that pushing it through with the stem in the inside stretches the case, and thins the area that you don't want thinned, the webbing at the base! Where cases rupture. Pushing it from the base of the case, keeps the stretching at the webbing at the base intact and basically keeps the length of the case the same. I suspect that over time pushing from the inside will continue to lengthen the case and it will change the headspace of the round... All just guesses. I use a Gizmo and it was fully specified to push it thru from the base of the case *ONLY* Alan

All, I heard from Mike again today. He's still plugging away, waiting for slides to come back from heat treating. Altho, he got his fingers so he's out of commission until monday for those to heal. I'll do my best to keep this note updated with what I hear. So far, I've got everyone who has sent me their info on my list and I've provided it to Mike. I can make no promises, but I am hopeful. Thanks, Alan

Ok, I give, thats much to simple of an idea and yet I can't find a *low* cost indicator clamp anywhere... so where did ya get such a thing? Thanks, Alan

Pictures as requested... That sharp line you see, you can actually feel with your fingernail as a groove or a ridge. Alan

Nope, just called them, splained what I had, they said, they would just send me a new body only, I simply pulled the primer punch and placed it in the new body. Alan

I recently picked up a a Lee "U" die for my 9mm setup... I ran a few rounds through it and it was putting an actual "ridge" in the brass at the point where it stopped going down and returned when cycled - NOT GOOD. You could actually see and feel this ridge. Also the carbide insert was about .1" up inside the mouth of the die, not right at the edge. I called EGW, they said call Lee, so I did.... They said they had some bad "sintered" inserts that had a sharp edge on them and it sounded like I had one. They shipped me a new body for it and today I got that. Installed it and YEAH - no more problem. Also due to the insert being at the face of the die and not offset by .1", they go further down on the brass. The other die (which had the bad insert) and a Dillon die, cycled the same, so I ran the Dillon until I figured out this fix. So, FYI, if you decide to replace your U die or get one, be cognizant of this issue. I can tell you right away if you have it, just cycle a brass and show it to me, it's pretty obvious. Great customer service too btw... ps. I'll see if I can take a couple of pictures of what the cases looked like from the original body... that is if I didn't throw them all away. Alan

Well, I bit the bullet so to speak. I took what advice was offered and I retested a couple of loads. I started with what I had originally done a 7.0gr load of Autocomp behind a 124gr MG JHP at 1.175. All the below were hand trickled and hand loaded. Got these results High: 1323.0 164 Low: 1304.0 162 E.S.: 19.0 Ave.: 1314.3 163 S.D.: 5.9 final column is PF btw Then I'll insert the 7.1grs that I did prior, these showed no increase over some other 7.0gr versions (however, those were loaded on a different scale) High: 1337.0 166 Low: 1328.0 165 E.S.: 9.0 Ave.: 1334.4 165 S.D.: 3.2 And finally the 7.2gr versions that I did along with the above 7.0's. High: 1363.0 169 Low: 1336.0 166 E.S.: 27.0 Ave.: 1352.8 168 S.D.: 10.8 As you can see, it appears I hadn't actually hit the wall with this powder. And in looking at the individual rounds, I think it's actually closer to the 169 PF in a broader sample that this small sample would show. Couple of notes... at this 7.2gr, there is a little bit of primer flattening and primer flow... I had to look really close to see the very slight outline of the firing pin hole surrounding the firing pin strike point. However the edges of the primer as still rounded. These were all CCI SP primers as a point of reference. These are in a 9mm Major open gun and it's a full length with Storm Lake Barrel My summary is as follows. a) I originally loaded some 7.0gr on one scale, and then did the 7.1's on a different (same make, model) scale in redoing all the loads on the same scale, the original 7.0's seem to behave similar to the 7.1's that I loaded, leading me to believe that one or the other scale is slightly different from the other (these are .02gr resolution scales btw) c) looking at everything loaded from the same scale, the 7.0, 7.1, and 7.2 show incremental increases with no significant negatives from just a numbers perspective d) in this case, it appears that either 7.2 or possibly 7.25 will be a major (with fudge factor) load for this open gun e) a larger sample with heightened inspection for pressure signs in the cases will be conducted Anyway, YMMV with any of this information, but I figured I'd share what I found out. Thanks for the advice, Alan

I'm curious, how much does the crimp amount change the chrono results? I've been working on a 9mm Major load. I use a Lee FCD and have it adjusted so it just takes out the bell per the instructions. With a Dillon sizing die and a powder funnel bell that is just +.020 as per suggested amount, I can still rap (strongly) the case on its end with a bullet seated and crimped and change the OAL. A setback issue could occur most likely. Now I know how to fix that... I'll lessen the bell as I'm sure it's too much, plus I'm loading to 1.175 and there isnt much of the bullet in the case in 9mm. But it got me thinking and I've read here before that crimp doesn't actual effect FPS that much? So I figured I'd ask...lol Thanks, Alan

Some experience and question about powder selection... Figured this group might have the most experience/interest. Post replies over on the originial thread however. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91562 Admins, lock this thread so we don't have both places to look. Thanks - Alan

I've been playing with Autocomp for a 9mm Major load... I really like it's feel... BUT here's the rub. my starting load was very close... 7.0gr of Autocomp at 1.175 oal behind a 124gr MG JHP 8 shots gave me a very good ES and a PF of 166, average velocity 1334 I decided that 7.1gr would offer a little more pucker factor room, so I loaded up 8 more round with 7.1gr The ES was just as low, but the velocity was *exactly* the same 1334. As a note, I hand loaded each of these rounds, individually weighing out the loads on a .02gr scale Nothing else changed, except I saw no additional velocity. A friend of mine suggested that I had hit the wall with this powder and this load and that jacking up the charge would more than likely put me in *critical* territory. With either load no visual sign of over pressure, nothing significant on the primers, etc. I always figured that the wall would show up as a wildly fluctuating ES as a starting point and then go bad from there (assuming your increment was small that is). I don't think many have played with this powder. Most have ignored it based upon prelim info... at this PF, in a 5" open gun, it shoots very soft, tracks very well and was just a pleasure to shoot. I simply wanted something around 170pf to be safe, but perhaps I can't get there... Any ideas? Alan

I have some pricing information from Mike, but to maintain the spirit of the rules on the benos site, I won't post it here. Check the www.casepro100.com site, while there has been some *slight* changes to the pricing, it's very similar to what is listed on the website. If you'd like specifics, drop me an email and I forward you what I got from Mike. Any sales transaction will occur directly between you and he. I'm just trying to facilitate a few of you that are wanting one with collecting a list of names and what is wanted to Mike knows what to produce...I have nothing beyond that to do with the product or efforts around production. However, I do have my fingers crossed .. Alan

All, Good news, I heard back from Mike... I hope all your patience is as good as mine ... I do appreciate what he's trying to do and he has all the information that I've provided to him. I have 19 names on my list with a combination of casepro's and dies, etc. If you'd like to check in and make sure I have what you want, please drop me an email to adamson(underscore)alan at hotmail dot com. Or PM me here. Thanks, Alan

Just cuirous, besides keeping it clean, what if any maint might be appropriate for a Ghost Holster? Thanks in advance, Alan

it'll come pretty well greased up for the first round... After than any "grease gun" type grease, used sparingly should be fine... Just remember great and powder don't mix so just just a smidge on the bearing and an extremely light coat on the washers. Alan