Alan Adamson

Ok, so I looked thru the 3 pages of posts and didn't see this topic discussed. I'm just curious of the following. How are most using their Chrono's? a) outdoor shooting environment? indoor? c) other?? If indoor, are the ranges "chrono" friendly, how do you go about setup, etc. I live in the Atlanta area, and while there are lots of indoor ranges around and I certainly can purchase a Chrono with IR capability, do indoor ranges allow their usage? Are people using an "at home" method? I live in the unincorporated area of the county, and while I haven't checked on firearm discharge - which obviously might be an issue, both to the local constable and my neighbors, are there tried and proven ways of utilizing a Chrono in an "at home" environment? Just curious.... I need to work up some loads for a 40 that I'm shooting and before I go plunk the money down on a Chrono, i'd like to know how people are using them. Thanks in advance, Alan

Ok, I guess I'm just brain dead. And at the moment, i"m also Choro handicapped (don't have one as of yet). I have an XDM 40 (4.5" barrel - stock). I have some N320 powder and I'd like to come up with a load that would work as Minor in this gun. Oh, I also have 500 Rainier plated 180g TC bullets. I've seen the other recipes and I've been to the VV website. The closest thing I could find was for a Foccicha(sp) LTC (I believe that is Lead truncated cone) 180 with N320. It was for a 5.25" barrel and started at 3.5gr at 883 fps to 4.3gr at 1010fps. BIG ASSUMPTION, but a 4.5" barrel should have less velocity than a 5.25" and in doing some basic web surfing I found some data that suggested that at those velocities that it would lower the rate by approx 25 fps. So using excel, I just did a linear extrapolation (yes I know it's probably not 100% accurate) to give me a break down of fps on the 5.25" barrel for 0.1grs of powder from 3.5 to 4.3, then I backed those off by 25 fps each and calculated the PF for each. That give approx the following gr pf 3.5 154.4 3.6 157.3 3.7 160.2 3.8 163.0 3.9 165.9 4.0 168.9 4.1 171.6 4.2 174.4 4.3 177.3 I then loaded up some 4.0grs to the spec length of 1.125. Haven't shot them yet, and while this is predicted to be a Major load, only a Chrono will tell. I only loaded about 10 right now, just got the press setup and didn't want a bunch that were wrong. So I have the following questions for you experienced guys a) from a pure safety standpoint, do you see anything wrong with 4.0gr as a load to at least make sure they function the gun? anyone have any data for this particular gun that says one number vs. the other for a starting point for a minor load? I guess only a chrono will tell, but I'd like at least some justification that my gun won't grenade in my hand from this starting point? Thanks in advance.... don't you experienced guys just love us newbies that ask all this *dumb* questions? Alan

well, then perhaps you can offer the phone number to contact them? The one listed on the webpage has been disconnected, and the email address is also not functional. If effect, they have disappeared. With the market with ammo right now, I'm sure there is a heightened demand for reloading supplies, if they are interesting in making any additional money (I know they do this as a side job), there sure seems to be a market... Here's another potential buyers as an example. Does anyone know the principles and can maybe get the real status? Alan

I think this is the answer I knew was true and I was waiting for confirmation of. I'm not expecting to go out and place in the top on the first, maybe not even 100th shoot, however, what I would like to understand is, that if I work hard, learn good habits, and practice, can I be competitive in limited (or production) without having to spend the huge bucks on gun/mods. So, if you'll allow, do you think the following equipment would be a limited factor to being competitive in limited (or production)? SA XDM 40SW - canyon creek trigger to 3# - canyon creek bomars and FO front (tbd on that as discussed in the other threads) - extended mags to 20+1 or 21+1 - Magwell either Canyon creek (if I want it perm), or pistolgear (if I want it removable so I could shoot production) (NOTE, yes I know there is a raging debate about trigger work in production and that new rules are forthcoming with *may* disallow) Or do you really have to go buy an Edge, Legend, or have something custom built? Alan

Ok, so I probably know the answer to this question, but curious of others take. Yes, I know, I'll only get out of this what I put into it.... But given the below, what would you do Gun of choice - Brand new XDM SW40 As a new entrant into the sport, would one be more likely to be more competitive in Production or Limited? Now before you answer, let's assume for production that I leave the gun stock. For limited, let's assume I do a trigger, sights, magwell and extended mags. I know the details like 10 rounds in production only, everyone shoots minor (might be a penalty shooting 40 in production until I get a 155/165gr minor load worked up). I'm not trying to become a pro, but I know me and the competitive side of me will take hold, I'll want to do good, will put in the practice necessary, etc. I suppose the question is "what is success", it's it winning matches, or is it having fun.... so for the sake of argument, let's say it's both ... it's got to be fun to stay involved, and hopefully more time under my belt will allow for winning matches. I just don't want to have to be up against "hired guns" everytime or it won't be fun... Does any of this argument make any sense? Or are you all simply going to say... Start at the bottom, have fun and work your way up to appoint where either you are competitive or you aren't having fun... See how I knew the answer ever before I asked. I am curious tho, it seems that around these parts, that the production classes are getting larger and larger and yet the Limited ones are staying the same or perhaps shrinking in size? Course it might be I haven't been to enough matches yet too... Anyway, figured I'd asked. I searched first, didn't find a similar question Alan

actually, it wouldn't require any upgrade for all the timers in the world. These timers I'm sure use an algorithm to detect shots. The wave from of a shot is very different from the waveform of a start signal and the duration is way longer. So it would just be a feature that one of the timer manufactures implement. Basically, looking for a beeeeep vs. a BANG. Thanks for the comments, sure seems like a worthwhile feature that I'm sure someone will implement. I can't be the first to see the need for it... I'm just starting out, but I sure would like to "replay" my course run, and have the data and staggers of my shots. Actually, while on the topic, if these guys would implement a simple accelerometer/compass module (one little tiny chip no a days) into the hardware, you could also figure out location and direction. From all the data, you could actually MAP the shots as well. Assuming of course that you wear the timer in the middle of your back and do a simple calibration so the timer knows what direction is what.

I didn't see an electronics section, so I hope none of you mind the inqury here. I'm looking for a timer that can be worn by me (the shooter), that can trigger it's start based upon the main RO's timer (any kind, but a separate timer). Thereby recording my time in parallel with the RO timer and more importantly my shot pattern for later review/analysis. I figured the CED 7000 would do such, but I can't find any reference in it's manual for a mode where it can be started remotely and be silent in its operation. Anyone know or know of? Thanks in advance, Alan

Clarifying or changing? wish, they'd hurry up, seems this topic has been in discussion for sometime and as of today, there isn't a 2009 rules version or a final ruling... Bummer... oh, well, like a few more weeks is gonna make a difference

I talked to Dillon this morning... Seems *all* the .223 dies need to be setup a little different than normal. There are 2 options. a) the method that dillon offered... pull the handle all the way thru, run the resize die down till it touches, then back the handle off, and run the die down an additional 1/8 turn. Put a case in the press, run it into the die and lock the die locking nut.... Yes, this puts the die down beyond touching the shellplate, just to the point where it will still cam over. have a few thousand turned off the bottom of the die, then setup to desired length. I suppose I'll try A for now... seems that's what most do, once I googled for "dillon 223 die setup" . Thanks all. Alan

Ok, so I'm *trying* to setup my 550B for .223. I have the dillon die set in steel, not carbide and I have the case gauge. BUT. Try as I might, even with the sizing die touching the shellplate, when the arm is down (plate is raised), the cases are still too long and don't pass the case gauge. I can't shorten it any further. So what gives? While I haven't tried it, I suppose I could run them thru the size/decap die, primarily for decapping, and then I plan to run them thru the 1200B trimmer with sizing die, so I could 2 step them and maybe that die would let me get the adjustment needed. However, isn't that going backwards? The size/decap just fixed the neck, and then if you resize with the trimming die, aren't you then just swaging the neck back down again... I guess I'll call dillon tomorrow, just thot I'd see if others had this problem. Is there some adjustment on the shellplate holder that has it raised too much out of the box? Alan

I've been talking to Rich at Canyon... about fixing some thing that I dislike with a XDM 40. I saw a 9 that was done by Rich either here or on the XD forums and I really liked it. I'm a beginner in this whole production (for that matter practical shooting) class and I don't want to make a change that will cause this gun not to fit in that class..... SO... I figured I'd offer what I was going to do and see if it would cause any issues. a) I really can't stand this trigger... I know this has been discussed and so I don't want to waste the bandwidth with more discussion. Unfortunately, I've shot too many 1911's I suppose. So I'd like his full trigger treatment, limit or stop the pre-travel, sharpen the break, and limit or stop the post travel and hopefully reset. b ) Mill the slide for the Bomars in the back and I'm undecided on the front as to whether to put in the FO or just leave it black... Does anyone know, is there a way to put in the FO when you want and take it out when you dont and still have a flat(ish) square front sight? c) tungsten guide rode and bushing treatment d) I have a bi-tone and I'd like the slide bead blasted and then he'll polish the flats e) OPTIONAL at the moment - the new style mag release that he's offering. Anyway, does the above take this gun out of the production class (under USPSA rules/guidelines)? Thanks in advance, Alan

yes, you are correct, I should have said, "for example - Berrys". Thanks for the link... I guess I'm in for a "process"... was hoping that I could get a ballpark starting point - perhaps I did with the low end of the proposed range. If others offer any approach, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance, and no worries, I've got a good flack jacket Alan

Ok, so yes, I've read the other threads and there is so much thread creep that they simply don't answer my question. So simply stated. I've seen that some are using the same powder, powder amount, with either the 155 or 180gr bullet to create a minor or major load. Can I just get a good starter recipe for the above combination. Let's assume some basics. - Small Pistol primer, either CCI or Winchester - I can get any of the powders, so if there are numerous options, that's ok, post away - I can order any of the bullets, berry's is an example, Rainer, or Zero, are others - I have a 550B that I'll be working under if that matters any. - I'm looking for a middle of the road, something that will work in a Production (non-modified) Springfield XDM (again, if that matters) Just something to load, knowing it will shoot, and can give me a feel for the differences. Would prefer low smoke if possible, and yes I know that is somewhat determined by bullet makeup. Hopefully this isn't a multi variable equations to solve... I'm a beginner, wanting to get into some of the practical shooting games, but certainly not wanting to be a professional shooter... Just a hobbiest. Thanks in advance, Alan