Alan Adamson

Tim, Thanks, that's where that list started, but his was *very* generic and I wanted to be a bit more specific... So I put that in excel and created it... and tried to list brands on some of the items. Just curious if I forgot anything... I've taken my apart in my mind 10 times and think I've got all the bases covered, now interested if the brands/makes that I've selected are good/bad/indifferent... Thanks, Alan

I've got one 5" LDC, and a 6" in SDC (narrow), was just looking for a look, and to save a little weight... I can always run a tungsten guide rod if I want the weight back (plus a little), that's all... Thanks for the offer though... Mostly I'm just thinking outloud, but wouldn't mind a list of parts just in case I get carried away Alan

I saw a recent picture/thread of a very nice limited gun and it got me thinking, what would the raw costs of the parts be? I know some smiths will build it, if you will buy and source the parts. So, if I wanted to build something from scratch, or at least develop a parts list for a 5" 2011 build, would the list at the bottom of this thread (PDF file link) cover everything?. What would you change/add, or what might I have missed. Are there better sources for the parts as well? Gun description 5" sight tracker on 2011 frame Standard length frame, but with wide body (SDC no LDC, but with wide frame so slide and frame are matched) Schuemann barrel in sight tracker configuration Bomar type rear sight FO front sight All the other best of breed parts You'll notice in the file that I listed some brands, if I made a huge mistake, please let me know. Alan Part list for Limited build - Parts List

So, if I wanted to build something similar, at least from a parts list standpoint, I put together this list... What would you change/add, or what might I have missed. Are there better sources for the parts as well? Thanks, don't mean to hijack the thread so if not appropriate, moderators please move. Alan Limited build parts list is here as a PDF document

Thanks Doug, I'll try that setup one more time... I'm pretty close to what you mentioned, except I have never taken the little screws of the shell plate lock and adjusted that tension, it is a smidge loose as well. Alan

So I load all my 9Major ammo on a 1050... Don't know why the 1050 got 9mm, I load .223 and .40 on 2 other 650s ... Anyway, occasionally, I get some crimped 9mm brass, and because I was fighting the stupid crushed primers issue on my 1050 (at least one in 100 primers would get crushed), I decides to check everything, I realigned the primer tube, cleaned it all up, and verified that the factory setup for swaging was setup correctly.... This last step was where I found the problem, it wasn't even close. I followed the instructions in the manual perfectly, had a handful of crimped brass, put one in, adjusted the inside die as described (I feel no cam over with only brass in that station so I know it's not too deep)... Then went about adjusting the swaging rod. I followed the instructions with a full shell plate, and kept adjusting until I just just an ever so slight shinny mark on the brass and a little rolled edge to the crimped pocket.... You'd think all would be good, and it may be, but now I notice a little bit of cant in the head as it comes down and the swaging station does it's thing. This is causing my OAL to vary a bit as no two brass cases are the same thickness in the primer area and so the head cants a varying amount each time, it's not a lot, just a little. I could take the swaging station out of the mix, but then I'd have to hand sort all my brass to remove the crimped ones. I figured the 1050 is made for this task, so why am I having this problem? Anyone notice this or have a suggestion... If you are curious how to see it, just watch the powder measure the next time you crank your 1050's handle and see if the head cants a little to the left. Thanks Alan ps. this press maybe has 2000-3000 rounds thru it total so its basically brand new.

Bobby, is KG1 ok for loctited comps? I have some so I may have to visit harbour freight tomorrow. Thanks and let me know, please. Alan

Brian, I have some of that, but I read the packaging and it says - may desolve some forms of loctite, so I've been very hesitant to use it... your shooting a machined barrel comp on your STI, so you don't have the problem I don't think... I wanted to use it, but guess I can't Alan

Spent the last few minutes reading the search results. Ok, given that most were old. Anyone found anything that works better than the dental pick approach and maybe some KG1? I've got Loctited Comps and don't want to use anything that might loosen them. There must be something that ok for loctite and will help loose the crud? It's mostly carbon as I'm shooting solid based JHP's...or CMJ's Thanks for reading, Alan

And the Smith will do the threading? In thinking about this, I suppose it makes sense because they will need to cut it to the specific length and then thread it... what length would I purchase? Alan

Warning, I'm only armed with dangerous information. I've been wanting to try a different comp on one of my open guns. I won a Brazos comp this past month at Area 6. It's a cone comp for 9mm/38 super threaded to .575 x 40 - a thundercomp 2. I'd also like to purchase a Schumann barrel that it would mate to. This is for a standard 5" open gun with no poppels. I looked on the Schuemann website, but didn't find a threaded, non bull barrel in 9mm. Is this something that the smith does by getting a non-threaded barrel and threading it? What barrel would I purchase such that I could send the barrel, comp and topend or complete gun to a smith to have them create this second barrel that I might try in this gun? (yes, I know it will be specific to this gun, but that's ok. Thanks in advance, Alan

On the FTF issue on load, my thoughts exactly... I'm just about out of these bullets, and as soon as I am, everything else I have will be jacketed. So, I'm hoping that will make an impact. As for the FTE on unload, I suspect it's also too long of ejector and will have to have that tweaked. Thanks to all for the info... Sounds like I was on the right path. Alan

It's new by a very knowledgeable 1911 gunsmith. I'll be talking to him tomorrow before I do anything drastic Alan

that's a great question. first thing i would do is trial the gun with plain jane fmj 180 factory ammo and see what happens. ideally, if you find a load that works, then you can start working towards that COL, bullet profile, etc. If you can't find a load that works, then you'll be better informed when you have to contact the person who built this. It's one thing to contact a gunsmith claiming that his pistol won't feed your reloads, it's another to contact a smith letting them know that their gun won't run with factory ball ammo. Please let us know what you find, and best o' luck. Jared Thanks to all. To clarify a few points a) the gun run 100% when it's shooting, it simply the first round that your use to load the gun that doesn't want to feed after the ramp gets a little dirty and it's the last round that your try to eject when you unload the gun. It has never had a problem with FTE or FTF when it's actually firing a round. c) the OAL that I load to is 1.195 (well longer than .40 S&W SAAMI, and well shorter than .45 SAAMI). These are the same rounds that feed just fine in my 2011, but won't feed the first one, on a make ready or unloaded start after the ramp gets a little dirty

Ok, I'm no expert, but need to know what to look for or potentially fix. I've got a new 1911, with Nolan ramped barrel in .40SW. It will hand feed the first round on load pretty easily for the first and second load, but on the third and from then forward, it won't... The bullet doesn't nose dive, and I've tried both a Tripp and a Wilson 47NX mag, the bullet simply runs into the ramp and stops, all tilted up as it should be from the magazines, etc. Makes for tough unloaded starts. I've take one shot at polishing the ramp, and perhaps I need to take another... I got the middle out about 30% polished, but the outsides where still a little rough from the EDM marks. Second and somewhat related, the gun ejects spent rounds just fine, but having to hand cycle it to clean a problem or unload it, the round that comes out of the barrel, comes back, hits the ejector and then gets trapped by the barrel hood and sometimes won't come out. In fact on each Unload, show clear, I have to fiddle with the gun to get that round out after the mag is dropped.... I'm certainly not going to hard eject it as it's begging for an ejector strike. I obviously need to talk to the smith that built it, but just figured, I'd educate myself first one what might be causing either of these problems? Thanks in advance, I'll share any and all info about this as required. Oh, and I'm using, for now anyway, 180gr Ranier TC plated bullets, so perhaps this is helping cause some of the problem, they are as well loaded to 1.195 OAL. Alan

I heard her say she was shooting a .40 and she was going to shoot 9 rounds at the first port. She did and I notice her slide didn't lock back so I assume she was shooting minor and had 9 rounds in the magazine. She was shooting Minor, see the scores and with Minor wouldn't you expect she has 10 in the gun ... I've got mags that fit the box just fine that hold 10 40's (reloadable) - the Tripp System mags Alan

Ok, if you use google Chrome as your browser, it will give you an option of translating this inline. There is reload data, contact info, powder info, etc. http://www.nobelsport.fr/nobelsport/fr/metal.html Alan ps. Bobby, if you get carried away and figure out how to get it in the US... I want some too!

You can't, read the rules, front strap and grip have to be above the top of the belt! Choices are Comp-tac, Ready Tactical, Blade-tech, and a handful of others... Me, I use a Comp-tac for now... But not DOH for SS in USPSA and in Ready, you have to use the USPSA version, not the IDPA version... Good source for Ready - cpwsa.com. Alan

Coming late to the discussion, but 2 comments, (and no I didn't read the entire thread above, but most of it). a) I suppose you ruled out someone else's ammo in your baggie? I always put the little sticker with my shooter number, etc on the *inside* of the bag, and not the outside, it's a PITA to do so, but stickers and plastic bags don't really work very well, when the corner lifts and your sticker gets transplanted to another bag in the standard handling of bags of ammo, etc. Inside, it can't go anywhere, but inside the bag, outside it can go anywhere. Second thing that I don't do, but this may prove to me that I should... is somehow mark your rounds... not so much to pick up yours but to verify at least for yourself that the rounds that are going in the gun at Chrono are indeed your rounds. second and probably more likely.... I've read, but have not been able to prove, that MG bullets (brass jacketed bullets) can be harder for a sensor to pick up than copper jacketed bullets. I've not experienced this, but have read that it does happen and can give funny results at the Chrono. As an aside, my rounds (124g MG JHP 9mm's) over the A6 chrono were exactly where my rounds chrono'd 2 days prior on my Chrono. Both times over CED chrono's... Mine and both of theirs. Alan

I got mine yesterday - it's what Saul calls a *shorty*... they actually changed the design slightly to accommodate something and he said if I was only going to use it with an STI, then he actually preferred this style, but the design change would become the standard I believe. Anyway, that was over 2 weeks ago, and the volcano got in the way of them shipping.... non-the-less, it's a pretty amazing holster and what an ingenious mechanism... For those that were concerned with a Ghost, this solves that easily... I shoot a ghost all the time and really like, it, but I suspect this will become my main holster. Just wait till you see them... Alan

The ONLY vendor I've seen is EGW. I believe they contract LEE to make them and then EGW sells em. Lots of places carry them... Henning usually has them as well. Check the Benos dealer forums for his website. BTW, I've gone thru 2 of them for 9mm, both not right from Lee. Alan

Wow, pretty obvious, and I certainly don't know IDPA rules, but if you had done what you did in that video at a USPSA match, you wouldn't be shooting it... you'd have gone home with a DQ... your finger was clearing in the trigger guard on that initial load... Funny too, I didn't even watch the rest of the video after than.. Be careful, and be advised, that's a very bad habit and one that is usually pretty hard to break... Sorry, I didn't sleep at a Holiday Inn last night, but I did just get my RO certification And remember, you *did* ask for comments ... Alan

I've shot both above and wouldn't even waste my time... go to 7.1g of Autocomp at 1.175 with a MG 124 JHP - mixed brass, runs 100% in both my 5" guns (means you might have to go to a bit more powder), very clean and 172PF at A6 this past weekend. 171PF at SC Championships weekend prior. YMMV Alan

So, playing with a Springfield 1911 in .40. Just wondering where to start with spring weights for recoil and mainspring. I've got 12/17's for my STI double stacks, is that a good starting point or are slide weights, etc different enough to start somewhere else? Thanks in advance, I searched and found all kinds of info on Edges, etc, and S_I double stacks, but little on springs for 1911's especially in .40. Alan

Ok, took a few times to get it right, but I think this will work... what I first thought would be the right bevel actually made it worse, then I took marker and started over, this time I found the sweet spot... Now to try a few reloads Thanks all, Alan