Rob Boudrie

At least you didn't say alot of pain

Something I've always wanted to do: Build a test fixture that will drop a ball bearing onto a firing pin. Use varying heights to do a detailed quantitive analysis of the difference in sensitivity between brands.

SVI 40 caliber, factory built, original mainspring. Ancient frankengun 38 super a friend shoots Wolf SR reliable in both - so far. I'll have more confidence after a few thousand rounds, but it's looking good.

How much airling luggage insurance does it take to get the airline to use non-standard handling and tracking on the insured luggage?

Small rifle in a pistol: Gun not going off due to increased cup thickness Small pistol in 38 Super: Primer flow (the rifle folks call it primer blanking) Small pistol in a rifle: Not generally a good idea I use only small rifle primers in my 40, and have used Winchester and Federal with success. I recently got a batch of Wolf Small Rifle (regular, not magnum or the special Wolf 223 primer) and initial testing with the first few hundred rounds is showing promising results in both super and 40.

I've been sour on Les Baer guns ever since a buddy had one chemically and structurally analyzed and found that his "forged" frame that cracked was chemically and structurally consistent with all specifications for 1141 resulphurized hot rolled plate steel with no evidence of forging. In fairness to Les, he did offer to stand by his work with a $50 discount off the full purchase price of a replacement gun.

I bought some of the Wolf Small Rifle (regular) primers for use on 40 and 38Super and they seem to be working well. I don't know if the added thickness of the magnum or 223 primers would create any problems, and will be interested in hearing if they are also viable solutions.

I just told my dogs I am ordering them central A/C so they will be comfortable in the event summer is not cancelled next year like it was in 2009.

"Getting in a run of mags" in SVIspeak means "getting it into the factory production schedule", not "getting a match in from a supplier".

Harvard, and thanks for taking care of it.

This is inaccurate. I've been to the factory and seen the raw material, machines and fixtures Infinity uses to manufacture magazines. The magazines are made in two halves (left and right) and welded together, after which the weld is polished smooth. My guess is that the marks you are seeing is where the weld was smoothed out. The magazines are polished after this step, but it is possible some indications of the weld smoothing process remain. Email Brandon at sviguns dot com with any questions about this - he will be glad to help. Your second point is accurate, so you score 1 out of 2 on your post

You can find a HUGE selection at www.labsafety.com

I just got a batch of Wolf Small Rifle (copper colored) for use in 40S&W and super. Wideners advised the magnum or 223 rifle versions are needed for use in an AR, but I went with the regular rifle for the handguns since I wanted a bit extra cup strength for the super (no need for the extra strength in the 40, but I wanted to standardize on one small primer). I have been very pleased with the quality, and have not experienced any problems with seating or making them go bang.

What will be far more common is persons sending their guns to SIG via normal UPS rather than the pricey overnight service they require to protect the guns from thieves in brown uniforms.

I'm working as an RO at a local match, and I notice the sear and hammer pins are working their way out the right side of the gun of the competitor who is about to make ready. It was a local match (squad members RO'ing), so I asked someone else to RO the next shooter while I explained the proper assembly to this shooter who I had assumed did his own detail strip and put the pins back in the wrong side. It turns out he had a "gunsmith" at a retail shop (I don't remember the name - not one I am familiar with) do a trigger job on the gun. He explained that this person was a qualified gunsmith and did great trigger jobs. I was about to show him the proper assembly procedure when a retired gunsmith (a real one - the kind who uses a lathe and mill, not just a parts changer with a few files) stepped forward and took care of that for the shooter. (Dan S to those of you who shoot in the Northeast section). I generally shy away from using the term "incompetent" when critiquing gunsmith's work, but this case merited an exception. Most gun shops are small businesses. Unless the person is the owner, you're dealing with someone who is making only a small amount above minimum and probably isn't getting any big benefits like insurance. Sure, you get some pretty competent people - like the retired person who figures it beats selling hardware at Home Depot or someone with a real job who works in the gunshop part time (a local shop has a firefighter on staff who I would guess makes less than 1/3 his day job wage in the shop, less if you count benefits). The bottom line is that the shop owners are very limited in the pool of people who know the product; have decent customer relations skills; and are willing to work for short money.

"Couldn't" in the same sense that some stores "can't" take your check. It's shop policy, not law. Some shops get bent out of shape over transfers since they think they are an end-run around the shop's profit margin on gun sales. That can be a shortsighted policy since gun people tend to pick a few favorite shops and keep coming back. We even have a choice of shops here in the DPRM (ie, MA) - Texans must have an incredible amount of choices.

Next week's episode "Primer hoarders who are so desperate they are even hoarding second tier brands" followed the week after by a story on smokeless powder hoarders.

Dang, you're right!!! It looks like it was an old rule unless I am missing something as well. If you switch handguns at the nationals, be sure to follow proper procedure and inform the range master. Thanks.

Calibers must match as well.

UPS ground only; ORM-D marking required; ship only via UPS pick up or depot; not by drop off at a UPS store or other intermediary service. If you ship it air, UPS will downgrade to ground with no adjustment to this shipping fee. If you want to get fancy with the labels visit www.uspsa.org/orm-d

Let's assume you use a case of 5K/month - WAY more than I use Buy annually - one $22.50 hazmat fee, but you're typing up 6 cases on average. At $150 a case, that's $900 worth of inventory on an average day, or $15/year opportunity cost at current CD rates - total carrying costs $37.50 plus shipping and primer cost. Buy monthly - 14x$22.50 = $247.50 hazmat fees, but you pocket $15 in interest on that money saved - so you're only paying $232.50 extra for the convenience of monthly delivery. Many would consider monthly deliver as an inconvenience, rather than a convenience, when compared to picking a new case off the pile in the reloading room. It's easy - the mentality is based on "I may not be able to get this if I run out, so I had better stock up". Sort of like buying more guns whenever democrats get elected.

Ray - Thanks for doing this - it is a huge help to many people. Every one - there are 600 +/- nationals slots. If only 1/3 of the competitor use this service, that's 200 boxes full of ammo. Accepting, storing it, handing it out when people arrive, etc. is a huge amount of unpaid work they are doing for us. They could have charged $5/package (which would have been a bargain for the shooter compared to hotel service charges) and pocketed a $K or two, but they are giving us the service for free - and throwing in range time. ***PLEASE*** don't make Ray and his team regret it by emailing or calling with "check to see if my box arrived". Just imagine the problem of checking for your package in a pile of 200 boxes to email an answer or, worse yet, check while they are on the phone with waiting customers in the shop. That's what the tracking number UPS gives you is for.

The hazmat fee is a killer - the ROI of stockpiling is tremendous when you consider $22.50 per order and a current risk free market rate of under 2% on parked cash. What might be more useful is waiting until "times of plenty", and then negotiating a large group deal with a reputable supplier The key word is "reputable", since you won' know if they hold up their end of the bargain until SHTF time and there is another shortage. We won't have any bargaining clout until vendors actually have to compete for our business again. The deal would be simple: We will all place our orders with you only, even if you don't have the absolute lowest price, provided you have the product available. In return, you agree we will be "served first" in the times of any future shortage. Just imagine what it would be for a power/primer supplier's business if they advertised "If you are a USPSA member and order all of your supplies from us, we will maintain a record of your ordering pattern. If there is another shortage, we will put you at the front of our line for purchase of supplies at a rate equal to your historical purchases from us." (hint, hint, to any vendors reading this). If a shortage develops, they would accept "front of line" back orders from plan members equal to (for example), the amount of a similar product purchased within the last year. It's only hoarding when someone else does it and you are running low. When you do it, it's called maintaining an appropriate inventory of strategic materials.

You could always give their chief engineer Vladimir N. Khovanskov a call if you speak Russian http://flame.murom.ru http://flame.murom.ru/en/default.htm The problem with cashing in on their guarantee is that (a) it does not explicitly state primers, and (b ) you cannot ship HazMat without a UPS hazmat contract so there is no practical way to get the primers back to them. Please report back to this thread on what kind of help you get from Wolf.

I did my initial loads with NCSR Wolfs (Small Rifle primers - the standard copper colored ones) and they passed my initial testing with flying colors. No problems seating, no visual defects, looked really nice once loaded, every round went bang, 15fps faster that WSP in 40S&W with Titegroup, however, my chrono sample size was to small to know if that is statistically significant ... but there is obviously enough flame to get good ignition). Rounds in super behind HS6 showed similarly good results, but I don't have comparative chrono info. I'm reserving final judgement until I have a couple of K down the tube, and I'm keeping the receipt just in case since www.wolfammo.com states. The way it's looking, I don't expect to make a claim on that guarantee.