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The Aftec is going to need some tuning to work properly. I don't care what the instructions say. They do not work properly out of the box. The bottom corner needs to be contoured, the edge that should touch the rim needs a feeding relief cut, all contact surfaces should be polished and they usually need to be relieved on the front so they don't hit the barrel. Ramped barrel feeding issues with short (factory length) ammo are well known. Every factory ramped barrel I've seen has the feed ramp cut incorrectly. Most need to be modified to feed all lengths of ammunition reliably.

The Armscor bullets are made in the Philippines. Thanks.

They are jacketed. They seem to be put together pretty well, but the run a little heavy in our experience. I hope to have their full line available in the next couple months.

G-manBart Can you expand on the how the bullets are made and how the machinery is different? I understand the basics of how the slugs and cups are made and assembled, but I've never seen it done. Thanks.

I hope it works for you when you go to the range. I was ready to junk two brand new guns because I couldn't get the mags to run, but they have been running great since I used the silicone spray. This should be the first step that anyone tries when they have problems with nosedives and Caspian mags. I haven't had any issue with the silicone spray attracting more dirt and grit than usual, but I clean any mag that hits the ground before it goes in the gun again. I haven't polished the inside of my tubes, but on Jim's recommendation I will be doing that this week.

I built two guns on Caspian high cap frames. One in 40 and the other in 9mm. I had a terrible time getting the new Caspian mags to run. After speaking with Jim via PM I did as he suggested and squeezed the mags a little. That helped, but I was still getting lots of nosedives. Using both stock springs and followers as well as Grams stuff for the Tanfoglio mags. I finally solved the problem with the simplest solution. Pure silicone spray. Take your mags apart and clean them real well. Then spray the inside of the tube, spring and follower with Pure Silicone Spray. Viola, not one more nosedive for me in the last two months (~2500 rounds). I couldn't believe that this solved my problem, but it did. The mag issue was driving me nuts and I was going to send them off to Jim to get them running, but I found the silicone spray first. I use the stuff from Ace Hardware for about $3 a can. Hope this helps.

I prefer a narrow front sight (~.090") paired with the Deep Notch rear sight from Kensight (Brownells PN: 100-002-633). I started shooting a Glock with Sevigny sights and when I switched to a 2011 I couldn't stand how short the notch was in a standard Bomar style sight. I found the Kensight and I really like being able to see the majority of the front sight height through the notch. Not sure this is how Eric does it, but this will give you an idea. Rabbit Ear Bomar

rhyrlik I'm not surprised you have side to side clearance when out of battery. I'm not sure who makes Baer slides, but Caspian and STI slides are cut so that there is more side to side clearance when the slide is out of battery. According to Gary Smith at Caspian this is to improve reliability and cycling. If you look down the frame rail slot in the slide there is a visible step in the slot right in front of where the frame rails sit when the slide is in battery. How is the fit when in battery?

I like mine at about 2.25 pounds. I ran one for a little while at 1.75 pounds, but I like a strong reset. I would occasionally get trigger freeze with the 1.75# setup. Adjusted to 2.25 pounds and that issue went away. I've done the triggers on all my own guns. I like to keep tension on the trigger with my finger while resetting the trigger. With the 1.75# trigger I felt that I had to almost remove my finger from the trigger on the reset. I've tried some really nice and light triggers from some top smiths on other people's guns, but they aren't for me. It is all about the reset for me.

I use Loctite Plastic Epoxy using a similar procedure as Whatmeworry. The only difference is I add a couple drops of black dye to the epoxy before spreading it on the grip. The epoxy is honey colored when mixed and will dry semi transparent. By adding the black dye it gives a nice solid black color to the area that is coated. I use the dye that came with Brownell's Acraglass. I use an acid brush to "paint" the epoxy on the grip and blue painter's tape to mask off the areas I don't want coated. I remove the tape after applying the AO, but before the epoxy starts to set. In my experience it isn't necessary to warm the epoxy for easy application.

Thanks for the info. I relieved the comp so that it goes on and the end of the barrel is even with the first port. Should the barrel bottom out in the comp for a tight fit or should I just screw the comp on until the barrel is even with the first port and loctite or epoxy it in place? I thought I should remove material from the front of the barrel to get the comp to index properly when tightened. The comp has material that will stop the barrel from extending into the first port.

I'm building my first open gun and I have a question about the barrel and comp fitting. Should the comp bottom out on the end of the barrel or the shoulder behind the threads? I'm using a KKM barrel and Bedell comp. Without modification of either part the back of the comp is hitting the barrel shoulder behind the threads. Looks like about three threads are showing in the comp. Thanks.

Any update on the Casepro status? I placed an order a couple weeks ago, but I'm wondering if I need to do anything else. Thanks.

That's a really nice looking 22. Can you give us some more info? What ammo do you use with it?

That sounds correct to me. No flexing of the actual extractor. I think pivot is a good word. The extractor should pivot around the FPS at the rear. Also check for clearance between the barrel and extractor.

If you are looking down from the top of the gun imagine you can see through the slide. The extractor is held fairly firmly at the rear by the FPS. The front must rotate in and out to cam over the rim of the case. The Aftec uses springs to create tension on the case at the front. Because the Aftec is fairly rigid there must be clearance around the FPS to allow for the camming of the extractor around the rim of the case. When looking down from the top the front and rear right side of the FPS must have a radius to allow the extractor to cam in and out. There must also be slightly more clearance from the right side of the FPS to the extractor. An easy way to check this is to remove the springs and backing plate and re-install the extractor with the FPS. Then through the ejection port see if you can cam the extractor in and out without much if any resistance. Let me know if this all makes sense.

Is this a new gun? Did it run before or has it always had problems. Has the chamber been properly reamed and throated? Is the Aftec fit correctly per the instructions so that it can rotate around the FPS? I would also check the extractor for contact with the barrel. Every Aftec I've installed hit the barrel if the barrel wasn't relieved properly. If the extractor is touching the barrel it can cause the extractor to cam out. This results in the claw on the extractor not engaging the case rim properly. Smoke up the extractor and barrel and inspect those surfaces (with and without a case under the extractor). There still may be a problem with the reloads, but these are some items to check. Hope this helps.

The Caspian high cap I just finished.

I talked to Mike at the match and he told me that if they didn't get better turnout at Titusville next year they were considering moving the match. I think he was disappointed at the local turnout. We traveled about four hours to shoot there, but we had guys from, PA, OH, and TX on our squad. We were the only guys from FL on our squad.

bassochist Any more pictures of the last gun you posted? I would like to see more of that one. Thanks.

From what I've read the cut for the flat top should be .032" to .040" deep. http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=127791&highlight=flat http://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=230953&highlight=flat Post #12 I laid it out on ACAD and if my dimensions are correct a .038" deep flat top cut makes the flat .374" wide. Per my ACAD layout if you cut the angled portion at 45 degrees and bring the cut to match the flat top width the angled flats should be .381" wide. Please note I haven't actually made these cuts before, but I have been researching it for my next build. When you cut your slide please let us know what angles and dimensions you use.

Thanks. No hurry. I'm just getting all the parts for the build. My project will be an open gun so I shouldn't have to worry about the missing front cocking serrations. I would like to see pictures of both limited and open guns if you have them. I'm thinking about running the cuts to the front of the comp. It should drop some weight and I think it will look good.

Anyone ever tri top a slide with high power cuts? Open or limited. I'm thinking of doing this on a new gun and wanted to see what it would look like. Thanks.

I just thought of something that I don't think has been covered. When scoring a stage is it possible to only have the "numbers" showing on the keyboard area? I think all you need on the score sheet page are the numbers to input the time? On my Nexus One the keyboard area is half the screen on the score sheet page. Thanks.

Outstanding! I just started using it. I can't wait for the email feature so I can use it for our local matches where we only have one squad. Thanks for putting this out.