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I would dimple the underside of the sight, not the slide.

Who did that finish? Is that satin hard chrome? More pics please. It looks awesome.

I ordered and received this site and am really happy with it. I used the formula on this thread http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...;hl=front+sight to calculate my front sight width. I came up with a .095" front sight. I got everything put together and went to the range with it yesterday. What a difference the deeper rear notch makes for me. It allows me to get the sights aligned horizontally much more easily. I also really prefer the .095" front sight. Not nearly as much sight covering the target. The real test will be in the next match, but so far I'm real happy.

That is awesome. I started bringing my Dad(63) to our Thursday shoots about 7 months ago. They are non sanctioned matches with a large contingent of older shooters. He is totally hooked. We have some really good time together.

Has anyone used the Champion Deep Notch rear sight? How do you like it and what height front sight are you using? http://www.championgunsights.com/proddetail.asp?prod=860-022 I'm trying to replicate the Sevigny sight set from my Glock for my STI. The shallow notch on the standard Bomar copies isn't working for me. I'm thinking of trying the Champion Deep Notch with a .100 front sight. If I don't like that I will widen the deep notch to .150" wide and run a .115" front just like the Sevigny set. One more question. Has anyone removed the serrations from the back of a Bomar style sight or seen one that comes with a smooth rear blade? I like a smooth rear sight and a serrated front sight. Thanks.

Thanks for all of the input.

A question arose at our local match tonight. Here is the situation. Shooting box and a plate rack to be engaged from the shooting box. When leaving the box (one foot in the box, one foot in the air) the shooter fired at the last plate and missed. The shooter then pushed off with the foot that was on the ground and fired at the last plate with both feet in the air before either foot had touched down outside the box. In our case the shooter missed the last plate, but raised the question of whether or not a procedural would have applied if the plate had fallen. I searched here and looked through the rules, but couldn't find a conclusive answer. I don't believe a procedural would apply because the rule 10.2.1 specifies faulting as touching the ground or stepping on something outside the fault line. The way I see it you aren't faulting until you touch down outside the box. Would the same apply coming in to a shooting area with both feet off the ground? Or in that case you wouldn't be considered in the shooting area until you touch down inside the area? Hope this makes sense. Thanks.

I think when shooting with a dot you should use a target focus instead of focusing on the dot. With a target focus that would make the dot location (front to rear) on the pistol less significant. I would also think the field of view through the J point will get smaller the further you get it away from your eve. That might make it easier to lose the dot. I'm not trying to talk you out of it, just giving some things I thought about. If you decide to do it I will be interested in how it shoots for you.

You might try Craigslist too. There is a guy down here who always has pallet loads of ammo cans listed on Craigslist.

I have some Infinity tubes on order. I was hoping to start with your proven combo on the Infinity tubes. You can't go and post something like I got 30 in my big stick easy and then not post the details for us!!! If I know if I start with a proven combo of springs, followers and base pads I can narrow down any problems I have to the tubes. I'm done messing with my STI big stick for now. Starting with 28 in the gun is serving me well. I'm confident that there aren't any problems with the gun. A friend has some tuned Infinity big sticks (Infinity follower, Bolen pad, not sure on the springs). They hold 29 and function perfectly for me. I was wondering if you were using the same combo. More than one person using the same set of components with success is a good thing.

What parts setup did you finally end up with to get 30 rounds? How did you tune the tube? Dimensions? I'm all about DIY mag tuning. I have lots of free time. I've been playing with my STI tubes. I am able to get 29 with Dawson +1 SNL pads, Grams springs and followers. I'm still getting occasional nose dives. Maybe 1 out of every 3 mags. Not sure about how to fix that. Same tubes and base pads I get a 100% reliable 27 with Dawson Competition Followers and ISMI Springs (recommendation from this site). The extra length on the Dawson follower is limiting capacity. I haven't tried cutting off the bottom of the followers, but that may be my next step. I'm not using the spacers with my STI tubes. Thanks.

In my short reloading career I've never had accuracy problems with MG bullets. My Dad and I have gone through about 30k rounds (all MG in 9mm and 40). Every time we practice we do some group shooting and the results have been very consistent. Groups as good or better than factory ammo We had a local shooter that was having some key holing with MG bullets out of a Glock. Our resident ammo expert (a commercial reloader) suggested that the crimp wasn't correct. I can't remember if it was too tight or too loose. Long story short the crimp was adjusted and the problem went away. I'm don't know how much of an effect the crimp can have on group size, but I'm sure someone with a lot more experience than me can speak to that. I've used 231, Titegroup and am now using Silhouette for 9mm Minor, 9mm Major and 40 Major. Hope this helps.

I prefer the grip safety pinned because of my hand size, shape and the way I grip the gun. I have tried with the tang removed and the grip safety moves around under my hand. A non-moving grip safety is the solution for me. As another poster mentioned use a solid fixture to drill the hole for the roll pin. I do mine on a Bridgeport.

I use a roll pin, but I drill the hole in the grip safety and use a larger roll pin. I use a 3/32" or 1/8" roll pin that is 1/2" long. I drill the hole in the grip safety about 1/4" deep (varies with different grip safeties). Then insert the roll pin and grind the extra length off so that it fits. If you use the main spring housing sometimes you have to use a smaller roll pin and the placement can be more difficult. Also if you use the thumb safety and your placement is a little off you can peen over the end of the roll pin to take up any slack. That is hard to do with a plastic mainspring housing. Hope this helps.

Does anyone know where I can see detailed times for the top competitors in Steel Challenge? I want to see first shot and split times. The order that the targets were shot would be great too. I know the overall string times are posted in many places, but I want to see the breakdown. Thanks.

I placed an order for an Advantage Arms Target kit about 4 weeks ago. To my surprise it showed up in the mail this week. When I placed the order the website listed 14 weeks for delivery. At the time I placed the order the only kit available for the STI platform was the Target model. I was hoping to use it on both my Limited and Open guns. I have had good luck with the AA kit on my Glocks. I found out a couple things that I think others should know before ordering. The Target Kit will not work with the Quinn mount without modification. With the Target model the slide is taller than a standard slide. I think I am going to have to mill about .1" from the top of the Target Kit for it to clear the C-More. I was not aware of this when I ordered. I am also concerned with this when using it for training with the Limited gun. If it is a taller slide then the index will not be the same when switching back to my 40 cal upper. AA now shows a Standard Kit on their website that looks like it is not as tall as the Target model. I think I may look into returning or selling the Target Kit and going with the Standard Kit.

Can anyone tell me if the Limcat C-More Knob is attached with a set screw. I can't seem to find anyone that has them in stock so I was going to make my own. It looks like the Arredondo uses a set screw and a rubber o-ring as a spacer under the knob. Does the Limcat fit tightly over the stock knob so that it is a press fit or does a set screw do all the work to hold it on. Thanks for the help.

Have you contacted the manufacturer? I hope they would replace it.

My first idea is that I want you to post pictures. I love those damascus slides. My machinist friend says he has to be in the "Mood" to work with titanium. He says it can be difficult to work with and he has to go real slow. I would talk to some of the big name smiths on this forum and see what their take on it is.

Use a 1911 spring. Had to re-spring a friend's Open XD. I think we used a 14lb spring with a few coils cut off. You can get a spring pack from Brownells that has multiple springs. Brownells PN: 969-131-150

The hook part on my inner belt started to become weak after 13 months of daily use. I contacted Rescomp and they took care of me. While waiting for a replacement to arrive in the mail someone suggested I get it repaired. I went to the local shoe repair store and for $10 they replaced the worn velcro.

I recently went in search of a good quality backpack. Not necessarily for shooting, but more for gear storage in my truck. I like to keep a change of clothes, boots, misc. supplies and foul weather gear in my truck. What I came across was the ATS Tactical RAID Pack. They are on special right now for $55. I understand that they re-designed the pack a little and released the RAID 2. The RAID 2 sells for $180. The only drawback (for some) is that they are only available in ACU. There isn't much info on the website about them, but I was pleasantly suprised when I received my order. These are fairly large for a backpack. About 14.5" wide x 17.5" tall x 7.5" deep. They have a pouch for a hydration pack with holes for the straw to leave the pack. They also have two mesh compartments in the inside of the pack. One is definitely large enough to fit a limited gun in a gun rug. It has straps inside to keep your stuff from moving around and straps on the outside to cinch the pack down tight. The MOLLE webbing on the outside is also really nice because you can add any number of pouches to the outside if you need more storage. It is also made in the USA and has a lifetime warranty. Here is a link and some pictures of mine. http://www.atstacticalgear.com/cgi/commerc...on&key=1037 Back Inside of back showing mesh pockets Inside

Ben The latest link doesn't go to one of your vids. It is a review of Zombieland.

93 Mustang. Getting a miss at anything over 4500rpm so I figured I had a bad plug wire. At night in my driveway, car running, with all the lights out looking for a break in the plug wires. Left hand on the fender and touched the coil wire with my right hand. I took all of the shock and the car died. Replaced the coil wire and all was well again. When you do this the first time it hurts so bad that you swear to yourself that you will never let it happen again, but you do it on a semi regular basis if you work on cars enough. When I built my shop I installed a two post auto lift. Well the lift doesn't go high enough for the arms to clear my head. Smack your head on one of the lift arms at full stride to the toolbox and you will consider working off of your back again (until the stars clear and you realize that smacking your head into the lift is always better than working off of your back). BTW, backing into the lift arm is just as good. It really comes as a surprise. It's even better if your shorter friends are around to laugh at you and then walk right under the arms. Dirtbiking while drinking. There was an incident that involved the recovery of a dirtbike from the bottom of a canal. Checking above dirtbike's fuel level with an open flame. Drive through a flag pond to check the depth of the water at a high rate of speed. A stripped Bronco on 38's will float/hydroplane, but just for a few seconds. Buy a boat. Mudding a 3 wheeler without rear fenders, with home made snow chains.

Here is the recipe that has helped me get through the primer supply issues. I have not once in the last 12 months gotten low on primers. I have ordered a lot of primers for shooting buddies. I have not gone for more than one week (when looking) without being able to find someone that has primers in stock at a reasonable price. When looking for primers I check the following websites twice a day. Early morning or after midnight seems to be the best time. I think stock updates must happen at the end of the day and the websites are set to update at midnight or later. Graf and Sons Wideners Midsouth Reloading Cabelas Sinclair Natchez Gamaliel Powder Valley Since Nov 08 I have probably purchased ~120k primers and I'm not hording. A good friend of mine is a commercial reloader (small scale). He goes through a lot of primers, but isn't real internet savvy so I have been getting them for him. Hope this helps.