01G8R

Thanks for the tips. I will put off reducing the OAL and try again with the powder measure. It just seemed odd that the fps increase was fairly linear until I got to 5.3.

I just received my order of Solo 1000. I started to work up the load, but ran into an issue. 5" Scheumann Barrel (Non-AET) 180gr MG JHP QAL: 1.180 Magtech SPP Mixed Range brass ES for all strings ~35 SD for all strings ~11 10 shot strings 4.5gr Avg 782 fps 4.7gr Avg 805 fps 4.9gr Avg 840 fps 5.1gr Avg 885 fps No pressure signs on the primers and 4.5gr is what I'm going to use as a steel load. Really flat and soft. Now here is where things got a little odd. 5.3gr Avg 885 fps Exactly the same as 5.1gr. I ran 3 strings of ten over the chrono just to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong. All three strings with 5.3gr were within a couple fps of each other. Could I be compressing the load at 5.3gr? I'm going to shorten the OAL to the book specification and try again to work the load up.

I have PN: 634-000-001. I have been happy with it. I've used it 8 or 10 times and it works well and is pretty easy to use. I have found that some ejectors will interfere with staking the rear leg of the plunger tube. If that is the case I remove the ejector. The tool could probably be modified to clear, but I don't use it that much so I haven't modified it. If you want to borrow mine instead of buying one shoot me a PM.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=100989&st=0&p=1151848&fromsearch=1entry1151848 This might help.

If you do a title only search for "Bayou" you will find a review of them and a few other posts where people are using them. I haven't used them, but I'm going to get a sample and try them out.

I have read that some people use some type of grit in the paint to get more grip on the surface. I'm not sure what product they use. I have covered the grip with epoxy and then sprinkled blasting media on the epoxy before it dries. Gives a texture much like grip tape, but never peels off and can contour to any shape. I will be doing this to any gun I get in the future with a plastic grip. There is an older thread that says what blasting media to use.

I use an electric cement mixer with a plastic drum. I found mine on Craigslist for less than $100. I set it up outside my shop on a timer and let it run. Remove the paddles from the inside before using it. I can dump almost an entire 5 gallon bucket of brass in it. Run it for 5 hours and the brass is clean and shiny. I have also used a steel drum mixer. I just coated the inside of the drum with spray on undercoating. It worked great until the bearing went out and then I got the one with the plastic drum. If you have to use it indoors cut a bath towel to cover the opening and use a big zip tie (the kind used for HVAC work) to hold the towel on. That will keep the dust down. I use liquid Flitz for polish. I also use a good quality dust mask when using the separator. Not the cheap dust mask, but a good quality one with a rubber face piece and seal. I also try to do the separating outside if possible. All that dust has to settle somewhere and I don't want it spreading around me shop.

Nice pictures. Good to get them started young. To go along with the safety glasses make sure they wash up with cold water and soap immediately after helping. Lead can do terrible things to a young person. We had a guy at the range with his kid and his kid was picking up brass bare handed and then eating without washing. Very, very bad idea.

I was looking for this same info some time ago. The only place that I found that would sell me just the rear blade was Caspian. If I remember right the blade with screws would run about $27. I'm not sure if the Caspian blade would fit in the Bomar rear so I just went with a new sight. The Champion "Deep Notch" is what I'm running now and I really like it. I think the screw needs to be replaced after it is removed. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=86574&st=0&p=996770&fromsearch=1entry996770

Jim Thanks for the info. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

I've been told that the greater accuracy potential with JHPs comes from the idea that for a given weight bullet will have a longer straight wall and will engage more of the rifling at one time. If you poke a hole in the front of a bullet you have to add that weight back somewhere and it goes to the rear of the bullet making the straight portion of the bullet longer.

I have used the Brownells and Birchwood cold blue. Here is what I do. I bead blast the part and then pour some of the cold blue into the cap that comes with the bottle. Then completely submerge the sight in the cap with the cold blue. With the Brownells solution it only takes about 20 to 30 seconds for it to become completely blue. Take the part out and immediately wipe it off and apply oil. This works really well with small parts. I've never had good luck with brushing it on with cotton balls or anything else, but submerging the part completely always works for me. I also do this on front sights that are still on the gun after the bluing starts to wear. Just turn the slide upside down and submerge the sight in the bluing solution. It will darken right up. Remember the bluing needs to be cleaned and oiled immediately after application. Let us know how it works out.

I run one of these and like it. The only difference is I modified my magwell. Just made the notch in the back of the magwell deeper. I decided to modify the cheaper part because I use a STI magwell.

You will need to remove metal from the frame. The plastic grip will sandwich the thumb guard against the frame. Look at post 10 in the thread below. It shows a thumb guard installed. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91977&st=0&p=1055138&hl=thumb&fromsearch=1entry1055138

Thanks.

I have an Ultimatch barrel that has a tungsten sleeve that I got used. I am currently running it in my limited gun, but it was not originally fit for my gun. It is riding up on one lower lug. I want to Tig weld the lower lugs and refit to my gun. Can anyone tell me what would be a good setup to ensure that I don't overheat the barrel? I've read that some pack and encase the barrel in mud to act as a heat sink. I plan to pre and post heat the barrel. Is ER410 the appropriate rod for the Schuemann 416R stainless? Buying a new barrel is not an option right now. My time to weld and refit is free. Thanks.

You will probably need a mill. I have installed one and it isn't that hard if you have access to a mill. You might be able to do it with files, but it would be a pain. You will also need a drill bit or reamer to chase the plunger tube hole. The cut goes partially into the plunger tube hole and you want to chase that hole to remove burrs.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27163/Product/CUSTOM_MOLDED_EAR_PLUGS Less than $10 if you get the discount. They really do work well. I put them on under my Sordins when I have to RO a lot. I've also used them alone when shooting my open gun and they work great.

I was just messing around with the search "titles only" and came across a couple interesting results. Using IE8 and Firefox using the same parameters I get different results. Search "glock holster" Titles Only Glock sub-forum highlighted in "Find in Forum" IE8: 34 results Results not limited to Glock sub-forum No results returned from Classified sub-forum Firefox: 55 results Results not limited to Glock sub-forum Lots of results from Classified sub-forum Using the "Find in Forum" menu from the advanced search does not work for me. Using the same search parameters listed above and not highlighting anything in the "Find in Forum" field returns the same results. For me "Find in Forum" doesn't seem to be limiting search results to a specific forum. Is there any way to make the "Find in Forum" menu larger? With all the sub forums it is sometimes tricky to find exactly the forum you are trying to limit your search to. If it displayed maybe 15 or 20 lines of forums instead of 6 it would be easier to pick which individual forum you want to search.

There ye go. That may be the best solution. Works for me on Mac/Safari. be Doesn't work with Firefox. Right clicking just opens the MFB. Can you tell me why the format on these two threads is different? Is it the size of the picture or where they are hosted? When thumbnail is clicked it opens MFB for me. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=100903 When thumbnail(large thumbnail) is clicked it opens the picture to a larger size in the thread. No MFB. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=100782

I have the same problem. Best solution for me was to pin the grip safety. Here is a link to another thread on this issue. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=96926&st=0&gopid=1108475entry1108475

Did you widen the mag body to get the extra capacity?

Foster/Caspian hi-cap frames were on sale a couple weeks ago for $90.

I think the STI springs are shorter than some aftermarket springs. Maybe by installing the Grams basepad the STI spring isn't long enough to get the job done. Does the problem with that mag go away if you put on the STI basepad? If so I would get a different spring and try that with the Grams basepad. Here is how I have my limited mags setup. They have run 100% and I've never had a mag related stoppage(knock on wood). 140mm STI tubes (untouched, never tuned or tweaked in any way), Grams springs and followers, Dawson Plus 1 SNL basepads. All hold 19 re-loadable and 20 to start. I did have to sand a little on the followers to get them to smoothly take the first and second round when loading, but no other mods have been made to the parts at all.

Gmantwo was nice enough to put me in contact with his friend that is using the STI mags. After some conversation he told me that he is using Para frames with the STI mags. So I'm back in search of how Limcat modifies the Caspian frame to work with STI mags.