barrysuperhawk

I need an AR height red dot optic for a new open shotgun (RIA vr80). Most people seem to run a plain regular red dot, and typically as small as possible. I have a vortex spitfire on another shotgun that I really like. Being a weirdo, I think circle-dot style seems to work better, for me at least and gives me at least a modicum of a pattern reference. But before I bought another spitfire, I figured that I would ask here to see if there were any better options.

What ever it is it is sticky and as black as a whores heart. I have strongly considered looking into trying to make a piston system work because of the schmutz... Back on topic though, all of my 40s have been used and tested now, and I am thrilled with them, no complaints whatsoever.

Right now I am just dropping the pack in any convenient pocket and I have a short 18" or so extension that lets me put it in any pocket. Sometimes it works better to move it around so it's not banging into anything. At most matches, I have my golf cart, so I most sincerely can charge... come to think of it, I also have a 12v charger in my truck, so I could carry one and charge one, swapping at lunch or between stages. That said, I have never done either, I just carry spare batteries... that I have not even had the need to swap out yet. So far, the 1.5Ah battery that came with the jacket has been sufficient to last a whole match on medium. Eventually I may need to swap batteries as they age...

Here's a hint: its ETS!!! Wait 5 minutes, there will be a sale... What? Veterans day is coming? SALE! Thanksgiving? SALE! Black Friday? You guessed it, sale!

Just bought 5 of them and ran 3 tonight. All 3 were flawless except that (as with every other ETS in a PCC mag) 2 shots were enough to coat the top inch of the inside with soot... Mine also all took 41 without much effort, but would not be closed bolt reloadable...

Being both a motorcyclist and a foul weather shooter, I have put MUCH research into heated clothing. The only problem I see with the ember kickstarter stuff is that they seem a bit to clever for their own good when it comes to their battery. By making it USB-C they have effectively made it just shy of proprietary in that other than some phones, nobody has usb-C anything. With the drill-pack coats you can bring a bag full of batteries, and quick chargers are normal. With any of the single battery coats, they may tout slightly better performance, but you are stuck waiting to recharge, and unfortunately nothing USB of any type can charge as fast as a regular drill pack, and spare battery packs are individually much more $$ when you equalize for capacity and run time. I am not real sure of some of their performance claims either. They are also cherry picking their competitors. Dewalt runs at 20V and their smallest 1.5 Ah battery is 30 watts by their measurement, watts instead of Amp Hours. A 3.0 Ah battery gives you 60 watts, and there are 4.0 Ah, 5.0 Ah and 6.0 Ah readily available for 80, 100 and 120 watts respectively. There also doesn't seem to be any technical reason why you couldn't lug around the 12 Ah flexvolt monster for 240 watts, other than needing a cart just for the battery. The 6.0 Ah battery is a tight fit in the pocket, but it works... Most importantly, if you use the Dewalt on max heat and keep it there, you cannot discharge any size battery faster than it takes to charge a replacement - to put that another way, run battery #1 down to dead, then plug in battery #2 and start charging #1. Battery #1 will be fully charged and ready to go well before #2 runs out. I have tested this up to the 6.0 Ah batteries, and a 6.0 Ah battery charges from 0 bars to full faster than i was able to discharge a 1.5 Ah replacement. I don't have any of the flexvolts to try. I presume that the Milwaukee and Bosch will work in a similar fashion, and the guy at Home Despot told me that Ryobi is or has come out with their own line of heated clothes - but I havent seen them. My next project is to try to hack my Gerbing gear to run off of drill batteries, because they have heated hoods, gloves and pants too...

https://imgur.com/a/muvcy3H https://imgur.com/a/YzkRXCa

I saw a guy with one at the Spartan 300 with one and thought it was genius. And then a couple days later Amazon had a flash sale on dewalt cordless fans for which I already had a few batteries...

I like the idea, but have you thought about putting a short rail section at 3 o'clock just forward of the ejection port?

I'll start. On my old ar45: 2 Olympic style ejector springs, one pin. One hammer One standard carbine buffer 3 magazines (2 dented steel, one bad spring) On my GlockAR: 2 charging handlesb one tac-latch, one at the bolt hook. 2 buffers, one standard carbine, one hydraulic. 3 trigger pins 2 sear pins 1 trigger spring 4 ets 30 rounders dead. 3 red dot sights (2 cheapie, one vortex) 1 comp (shot it off, but found it) 1 firing pin 1 firing pin retaining pin. Apparently PCCs are rough on parts, so what have y'all broken?

Admittedly I have only made it work once in a match, in Missouri, shooting 2x4 in a 3 gun match, but I was able to see a flash of green and hit targets...

I can see it on white steel ok. At 100 yards, it is a stretch, but knowing where to look (just below red dot) if I see green, I shoot. If I am off the target, or it's not white I'm screwed. It's more of an art than a science...

I do like the green lasers better, and I use them a bit differently. I run mine on the receiver rail, directly in front of the red dot so parallax is minimal. I use it as a long range aiming point, about the same as a bdc. On the 9mm its not as big of a deal, but on the 45... drop at 100+ yards gets sporting...

I use a steel keyring on a tapco flag and a hard drive magnet on my mag pouch. It's a good combination. That said, I sorta like the on-gun storage idea. For a little while I used a maxpedition gear retractor clipped to the stock, but I didn't like it rattling or getting chamber gunk on my shoulder.

Since pcc is kind of "anything goes" in most other areas (mags, lasers, optics, etc.) And only really specific about a very few things (pistol braces, nfa stuff), my local clubs don't seem to care. Many of my fellow competitors are running some fashion of forward grip or grip aid. I even saw a competitor with a strap like those short shotguns on his pcc (to be fair, though, he is a disabled vet and it allows him to be safer). YMMV

If someone can modify the taccom extension 3d model to fit pmags, found here: https://taccom3g.com/taccom-3d-print-downloads/ and send the file to me, I will 3d print a couple for you for the cost of shipping (in a color I have). Add a taccom spring kit and Bob's your uncle. https://taccom3g.com/product/taccom-spring-kits/ I am not good enough at fusion360 to do it myself, and I don't have any 9mm pmag to test on. In case you are wondering, I am paying it forward because someone else helped me out.

I guess I could have put this in springs...

My favorite pcc is still my .45 acp Bazooka Brothers. My only complaint is that it uses grease gun magazines, and you can have any capacity grease gun mag you want as long as its 30 rounds. So. I am going to sacrifice a couple of mags to the welding gods and try to make a big stick. Where I am coming up short in my plans are the springs. .45acp is a big heavy round and 30 of them takes a pretty stout spring. 45-50 of them weigh more and will need MOAR SPRINGGGGG! So, does anyone have any ideas?

I don't let the RO touch my equipment, but I am in a minority in my club. I also run a Phase5 BHO (like a BAD lever). I can lock my bolt back and it makes flagging and unflagging a breeze. It also helps with the occasional jam.

Vortex Sparc AR here. My favorite things about it are that is is ridiculously durable and it uses...a single AA battery! no more hunting at Walgreens for the right number coin cell battery...

This is exactly the route I went also. I swapped to an ACE entry stock to have a shorter pull, and slightly less weight, and replaced the FH with a 3 chamber "brake" (not because I was trying to control recoil, but just to reflect more sound back to the timer - haven't had to re-shoot since). I am currently using a well polished GI trigger group, but I have a couple of drop-ins on the shelf if this fails. Oh, and I also put on a CF FF tube, and an ERGO grip...I guess the only stock parts are the upper, lower, and barrel... Taccom used to make a Magwell, and it was good, but soft. I now run a Titan Rocket magwell and I couldn't be happier.

Shorter mags were faster to reload until I practiced more. What got me started is I left my short mags in my pistol bag one classifier night, and only had the 30 rounders with me. I fumbled through it, but I made up my mind to practice more, and I am now fairly decent loading 30's off my belt. I still only have 1 "big stick" (ETS 30 with a TF +10 and a Taccom spring). I agree that if I am on a big enough stage to require a reload after 40 rounds, that reload is probably not going to be the margin of victory... I just wish ETS would make a 40 or 45 round 9mm glock mag...

My club made a rule, just for me, dictating "muzzle up" only. I say it was just for me because I was the only shooter that ever carried muzzle down to and from the stages. It can't have had anything to do with the fact that the guy that proposed the rule was #2 in the standings, and the second was #3 in the standings (to my #1) This year he got a rule made for himself, though, specifically allowing a micro-roni pistol brace (without the long barrel that turns it into a carbine) to be allowed in PCC class.... I still beat him though...

I have the dewalt Heated jacket, and I love it. It's not much of a jacket by itself, but as a directly over the tshirt first layer, with some insulation over it, -14 degrees today seemed nice...

I use standard running shoes and modify them to suit. At our old indoor range the owner mixed a tube of play sand per bucket of paint, so with the floor already rough, I just hit my soles with a wirebrush every month or so to raise small cuts/ridges in the sole. Not enough to wear them, just a little extra grab. Now I shoot at 2 different indoor ranges, one smooth old concrete, one smooth NEW concrete. I now use T-rex Duct tape. I use a strip about 3/4 of the length of my sole, cut in half. Just stick it on smooth side down and walk on it for a while. The backer wears off and you constantly have 4 strips of stickey goo running the length of the shoe (the outside edges of the tape). For extra grip, plant the ball of your foot and do the twist for a couple of rounds... Replace the tape every couple of weeks. After doing this a few times, you build up a residue on your shoes that is still stickey even if you walk through dust or sand...