barrysuperhawk

Well, I got back a terse little note that they couldn't help me because Reasons. Like I said I don't blame them. I like the Idea of Ace, and I do have one of those kinda close... If they do have something, I will post up what it is, in case the other guy that bought one of these loses his...

Apparently my gun does not exist anymore, and the armscor guns are now RIA...LOL. So, I found this: https://advancedtactical.com/tactical-rear-adjustable-sight-set-screw-1911/ ...but of course, RIA won't send me one because I don't have one of their guns. I mean I don't blame them, but I also hate spending $10 shipping for a $3 part. They also won't tell me what the thread spec is...

I have a High Standard 1911 (Armscor, Philippines gun) and I just noticed the set screw in the rear sight is gone. I did not notice it coming out, so I suppose it went from loose to gone during a stage. In true redneck gunhack fashion, I started going through all of my spare little screws just to try to figure out thread pitch and size. I did not manage to find anything close except a random machine thread sling swivel (yes, from a rifle, maybe from a Bergera) seems to be the correct diameter but not thread pitch. The thread pitch seems quite coarse compared to almost every bolt I have tried - Don't judge me, I was trying everything I had, scope ring screws, grip screws, RC car stuff... I have not actually tried a micrometer (it was in the other room) yet. So, does anyone know off the top of their head what size set screw I might need here? I was thinking its metric since its not made in the US, but on the other hand it is a 1911, and maybe the rear sight set screw spec might be imperial? I am probably going to just order a set screw assortment form Amazon, but it might be nice to know exactly what I need to be sure the set covers that size...

I have one of those CMC mags linked, but just like the Wilson it will not seat correctly. When I first got the gun, I tried to switch to either of those, but the only ones that latched in were Para factory, so since it was a carry gun, I just bought a bunch of factory mags (that all worked, even with the plastic bumper pictured), before the magwell.

Only the Para Branded mags that I have latch in correctly. My Wilson and CMC mags do not. This is not my actual gun, but it's similar to this (except this has NORMAL mags...): https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1031376142 What I installed was a generic S&A style magwell. It took some fitting, but I expected that, and the end result seems identical to the other S&A magwells I have used. I *thought* I could get away with just trimming enough off the top edge of the magpads to get them to seat. This was what I tried to do to make them fit... https://i.imgur.com/cJH3SOg.jpg Here are pix: https://imgur.com/a/uVUofhU

Possibly. I have 3 takeoff mag-catches from other guns (added buttons) and none of them will fit into the frame, so I suspect my para is a bit out of spec. I was trying not to go any *further* down the rabbit hole of home gunsmithing on my carry gun. Besides, I would still need basepads for my other mags even if I get the Wilson mag to seat...

HELP, I just did a sorta dumb thing, I put a magwell on my carry gun (intending to practice with it more by taking it to uspsa matches) and now my mags won't seat correctly. The gun is a Para Ordinance CCO (commander slide on officers frame), and all of the factory mags have a plastic basepad that comes up high enough that the mag will no longer seat. I tried grinding one down to fit.... and that did not go so well, and now I have a mag body without a basepad at all. The problem is I can't just buy different mags because for some reason aftermarket mags (like Wilsons or McCormick) never did latch in correctly (which is why I bought a dozen factory PARA mags). The problem is the basepad "lips" flare outward rather than inward. CMC and Wilson pasepads attach differently The only solution I have been able to come up with is the fact that Mec-Gar BUL armory 1911 mags seem to take a similar basepad that is metal and already tapers a bit: https://www.db-shootingsupplies.com.au/bc-1911-mec-gar-bul-armory-aluminium-magazine-base~139805 The problem is the only US supplier of these things that I can find is CED/DAA, and I don't want to pay almost as much in shipping as for the part itself without even knowing if it will actually work. https://www.cedhk.com/1911-bul-mecgar-base-pads-aluminum So, I now have a dilema, Give up, remove the magwell, and just put the broken mag on the bench for parts, pay way too much $$ for one basepad to experiment, or ask on here to see if anyone else has a better solution that I don't know about..

Long story short, I find myself going back to a gun that uses Para hi-cap magazines in .45ACP, so I am tuning up the magazines. I have a few "pristine" PARA magazines, some that are "known good" but not pretty (well used) then a bunch of "lord knows what" that I picked up at a gunshow or the random mag bin at the LGS. Don't judge me, I have a long history of buying whatever I can get my hands on and just tossing it in the pile, so I have what I have. So, I am doing new springs for most of them, looking for replacement basepads at least for the ones that are still plastic -(so if anyone knows where I can get more FLUSH brass basepads, I apparecaite the tips) and probably followers for some also. But my REAL question and the reason for this post is almost all of them need some help with the tube itself. I WISH they were made out of nice thick, slick polished stainless like some other brands (not to be mentioned) but these are not. There is some rust, scratched bluing, some have witness holes, some do not, and I even have a few that have a kind of rough textured bluing on them almost like Parkerizing. I think in a perfect world I would like to send these out somewhere and have some type of coating applied, either hard chrome or some type of nitride. However, its been a while since I sent anything out, and two companies I have used in the past are both either out of business or unresponsive, so I am looking for recommendations to recondition my poor choices into better ones - both for what coating to apply, and where to have it done. These are some, but not nearly all:

This is just our weeknight "practice league", so like I said there was literally nothing riding on this especially since we were in completely different classes, divisions etc. I was just curious because I think this is the first time I have ever tied with someone since I started shooting USPSA 33 years ago...

So, at USPSA match my score matched another competitor (in a different class) down to four places worth of hit factor. I had more alphas but he was shooting major. Looking at the overall scores afterwards, I note that the other competitor is listed one place above me rather than tied, and I am curious why. -Note I am not complaining or anything, there is no money or prestige riding on this, I am just genuinely curious how this works.. If you would have asked me before how this would be scored I would have thought that number of alphas would be the tiebreaker but that doesn't seem to be true. He signed up and shot thru before I did, alphabetically my name comes before his.

Here it is 2023, and I want to put in a short stroke mod on a Benelli supernova. Normally, I would just ship it to a competent gunsmith, but shipping anything that goes bang seems impractical right now for...reasons. When I started looking around, the 2 places I found that sell the parts kits are both in Europe: Magload in UK and King Competition in Finland So, do I truly need a kit for this, or is it possible to mod my existing parts for this purpose - and can instructions be had to DIY this? Are there any US Sources for kits to convert a supernova to short stroke, that my Google overlord isn't showing me? Are there any gunsmiths in Illinois/Indiana/Missouri (that aren't booked out for months) that can/will do this? If my only practical choices are the europeans, is there a practical difference between the two that warrants the doubling of the price?

@ranger Oooh, thats hot... Practical question, if I would BE planning on re-barreling to 6GT rather than buying that caliber to start, is there any reason not to buy the 6.5CM version and take advantage of the wider availability of ammo and components in the meantime? What I am asking is that is 6 creed a better enough choice to make up for not being to walk into most any gun store and get ammo? In my area, 65 creed is literally the easiest rifle caliber to find... The only place I can buy 6 creed still wants $36 a box at the moment. If I get 6.5, I would think I could sell my 6.5 stuff pretty easily when I switch to 6GT.

Ok, I just did a little research on the 6mm calibers mentioned and 6GT seems to offer the best combination of benefits, so 6GT it is. I have the optics covered courtesy a couple of simply awesome prize table certificates, Thank you to both Burris and Vortex for supporting the sport(s)!!! So, now I need to decide Action, Chassis, Barrel. At this point I will freely admit I do not have the talent or the machine shop tools required to chamber/headspace a rifle myself, thus I won't actually be gunsmithing, I will be "assembling" a barreled action... It seems this limits me a bit to gunsmiths that have maybe less than a 6 month backlog if I am getting a barreled action instead of pre-fit parts.

I am having shoulder surgery, so I am going to be off shooting for a few months. During that time, I feel like I have an opportunity to assemble a new rifle. I am thinking a Chassis rifle, detachable mag, good barrel, the works. I intend this to be a PRS/NRL rifle, and am not limiting myself on caliber. I would like help to pick a caliber, an action, a barrel and a chassis. SO, I intend to use this thread to help me decide exactly what I am building. This is only going to be a fun rifle and I am an experienced reloader, so I don't care if I have to make my brass from scratch, but if something like 6.5 creed (with a GOB of factory ammo available) ends up being the best choice so be it. Buying the exact components seems better than starting with a factory rifle and then taking a ton of parts off and replacing them. I have accounts over on AS, SH, etc. but I have no street cred there, so asking there will just get me "STFU NOOB" ... and I don't have much of an idea who knows their stuff there... So, I think Caliber first.

Breathing CF is awful, but the itty bitty splinters are the worst. I make the equivalent of a blasting cabinet with a cardboard box and use yellow dish gloves and a face shield backwards over what I am cutting. It might be overkill but it makes cleanup easier and after having to deal with a CF splinter in my trigger finger for more than a year, its a better choice.

Ok, so let me start off by saying I DO NOT want to ruffle any feathers here and I DO understand there are certain folks that believe one of the c's in PCC stands for Cheater.... So, be me, shooting in PCC division since before it was cool. Attend weekly USPSA shoots literally for the last 32 years (and counting) starting back when it was just Open and Limited and not even SS had been created yet. Tear up strong side Shoulder participating in USPPG requiring surgical repair. Work on figuring out how to be able to continue during recovery. My RM and MD are onboard with any safe accommodations I can come up with, actually my RM also had shoulder surgery and shot left handed for a while, too... Let me be clear, I am not trying to game or bend any rules, or extract any unreasonable accommodations, I am just trying to figure out the best way to be able to continue while I recover. Even if I cant figure a way to make this work, I will still show up to help RO etc. Option 0: (not an option) Take time off and don't shoot. Option 1: I have already purchased a left handed holster and been practicing with it so I ought to be OK for Open, Limited or CO depending on which glock I stick in it. I still need to figure out reloads, but I have a couple of slide-plates that I can use for safe manipulation using only one hand. I might just decide to just take penalties or even skip stages that have mandatory reloads, IDK. Option 2: Trying to figure out if I can still run PCC in any way.... So, I normally shoot an AR pattern PCC. I have practiced shooing it weak hand, and it's not completely terrible while shooting, but manipulation SUCKS trying to use just 1 hand. I basically have to use a strap or hook to snare the CH to pull it back. I also have one of those fold up kel-tecs that is accurate enough for indoor matches. Its actually a little easier to manipulate 1 handed because its lighter and more balanced. I can also rock an offset red dot, but reloading is still problematic and ULSC is accomplished by the use of hooking the charging handle though a strap tied to my belt. Alternatively, would breaking the action similar to a break open shotgun suffice for safety purposes after its unloaded? On another website, someone suggested buying a bullpup (like a 9mm Tavor or a JARD J67 or J68). While I am not opposed to buying a new gun, in fact I like the idea of having something new, FINDING and equipping one right now seems problematic )-but of course if anyone knows of a bullpup PCC for sale, feel free to message me ) I suspect I would have the same issues with reloads and ULSC, but hey a new gun is worth it even if I can't use it for this... One thing that has come up was the possibility of using an arm brace in the manner that it was originally intended (:shocker:). The SIG brace and any variant is specifically disallowed in the rules, but I believe the INTENT of those rules was just to disallow people trying to mis-use them as shoulder stocks in an attempt to circumvent the SBR rules. Personally since I don't own a brace or even a pistol to put it on, thats a moot point, but I figured I would mention it. OTOH, pistol to Carbine conversions ARE specifically allowed, so maybe if I were to buy a glock mag PISTOL or Stripped lower, I could possibly put a brace on it and use my carbine upper - but that would probably run me afoul of the new AFT brace confustication...

I am a .45 guy from way back. IMHO, Perfect is the enemy of good, and the way that applies to this question is when I think back, the times that an extra couple of rounds in the mag would truly have made a difference have been very few. OTOH, .45 is stone axe simple and stupid cheap to load for, and just plain seems to shoot softer for me. It is a lot more forgiving when you have to use oddball components like rifle primers or the only type of powder that you could find... And then there is the matter of bigger holes...

Sweet. That means I don't have to spend the gas to drag the trailer and golfcart.

Hey guys I signed up for the Gadsden shotgun championship this year down in Iberia Missouri, but I've never been to this range before so I was kind of wondering what their policy towards things like golf carts and ATVs is? Is this a push cart range, and ATV or golf cart to the stages range or a just drive your truck to each stage range?

My own experience with my .45 is this: I use a standard carbine buffer and a standard carbine spring, and I replace the buffer every 1000 rounds or so because the soft bit gets chewed up. Nothing else works reliably and I am shooting mostly WWB factory that, comparatively speaking are quite hot, running 190+ PF out of a 5" 1911. It seems that what works with 9mm (heavier springs and buffers) is not so nice to .45acp. I always meant to get one of Rudy's DI uppers (Macon Armory), but I have never plinked down the $$ and settled in for the wait...

My precision guns are the longest guns I own. For the AR style I separate the halves, but for the non-AR styles, I LIKE the idea of folding the stock for a shorter OAL for transport and storage. I agree that some systems suck, and I had one that every time I shot it it would rip out my facial hair somehow, but the concept is Great....

Shout out to Prasky Gunworks for some awesome work (yes, I know the slides are swapped in these pictures).

Ok, so to be clear, (and to bump this thread) since I ended up on the AM/PM/AM I will be shooting AM on Saturday the 16, PM on Sunday the 17, and AM on Monday the 18th? Assuming I stick around Monday for any festivities, does anyone want to hazard a guess about what time I could expect to be on the road? Are we talking 6pm or midnight? The reason I ask is I am trying to plan where to get a motel for Monday and I don't really want to wait until the match book comes out with the exact schedule.

Just as a data point, I have 3 1911 slides that have MRD on them, and all 3 have required the 1 degree shim in order to be able to zero the dot closer to center of the adjustment. The first one was a Factory Kimber with the Vortex, and I couldn't quite get it zeroed, so I sent an email to Vortex asking them - assuming it was the dot that was messed up. Their response was to try the shim, and bob's your uncle it worked perfectly. I have since gotten 2 more slides cut, and ended up shimming them too. The two new ones both had enough vertical adjustment to zero, but they were within 1/2 turn of the max, and I have always heard that it is bad for scopes to be all the way at the end of their range of adjustment. This is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L5RS2FM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What a difference a couple of months makes. Ok, so here is an update, apparently my problem was a broken (breaking) hammer. As part of a completely different project, I had sent this gun (with both slides) off to be refinished and have one slide cut for an optic. I told the gunsmith what was going on, and we decided to have him do the work and then figure out what was going on afterward. During the test-firing, my hammer actually broke, requiring a replacement. With the replacement hammer installed, the problem is gone - without changing any springs or other parts, or doing anything else. So, Shout out to Prasky Gunworks for some awesome work (yes, I know the slides are swapped in these pictures).