horseman

If you are shooting an MP good luck with a 13 pound recoil spring. Others have had success but neither of mine will run reliably on a 13. My fix for the type of jam you are experiencing has always been fresh magazine springs. 1911's taught me that and the MP's have reinforced.

I have both and the 5 inch is a ton easier to shoot accurately. Barrel length doesn't effect me much for carrying. Butt size is what effects conceal-ability, and to some degree comfort for me. The difference that 3/4 of and inch makes is huge for me.

Accurate Irons fine stippled back strap was probably the best money I spent when coupled with strip of grip tape on the forward edge of the grip.

I jacked with light strikes for 2 years. Ordering a complete new striker assembly fixed my problem.

What cured my light strike problems with ANY primers was a new striker assembly from SSS. Changed springs several times, nothing worked. Slapped in a new striker and my 2 year old journey of fail ended.

My daughter and I took all of the grip inserts to the range and shot 2 inch circle's at 8 yards. We both had significant improvement in groups with the large. Hers was dramatic. She liked the feel of the small and I liked the medium best. We both shoot with the large. I would not worry much about being able to hit the mag release without shifting your grip. Not much of a factor outside of competition, even then not so much. I think they make an extended release button if you are shooting limited uspsa. Try some grip tape. Especially on the front edge of the grip. I shot an MP without tape for the first time in 5 years last week and could not believe how it rocked out of my grip. Like gripping bacon. Lots of video's showing how to grip the gun. Good luck

Dawson adjustable and use the front height they suggest.

Missouri Bullet 147 at 1.145 no issue at all. You do have a problem.

I agree with Jeff not legal for USPSA.

Dawson recommends their 305 front which I have on my 5 inch pro. It LOOKS tall but really was no problem and worked fine. So when I got my full size I fudged a bit and got the 285. It is bottomed out but worked. If it needed one more click it would not have worked. It's gonna depend on your particular gun. You will get posts that a 265 or lower worked for them. I am sure that is true. Depends on the gun. However, there is likely a reason Dawson recommends the 305. If I order other front sights they will be a 305's.

Grip tape. I am a fan of tape on the front strap. Given you like the sights and have not complaint about the trigger sounds like you are good to go. Manny Bragg gave me a tip about the magazine base plates which I really like for production. Its not uspsa legal to grind off the nose of the stock base plates but is legal to replace with the factory compact base plate. Much easier to reload. See my thread here about those if interested.

That Apex striker block spring is tiny. I wouldn't shorten it unless you don't mind disabling the striker block.

The Apex spring is a ton lighter in my opinion. Should not affect function except as mentioned previously the striker block which is a safety device. Cut away. While you have it out you should either replace with the Apex block or round the edges of your striker block like the Apex striker block. That and the spring will make a noticeable difference in trigger pull, in my opinion.

Guess not but I now do. So for those searching in the future I ordered the metal part with the button in the middle like older style mags. If you mags are newer you will need this part. The button in the middle slide on compact butt plates are product code 278350000. The metal plates that attach to the spring (old style button in the middle) are called butt plate catch H. C. Rev code 390160000. This works slick and is much easier to reload than the long lip ones. Also easier to not flip one off your belt accidentally during a moving reload.

They have more than one type do you happen to have a part number?

Guys, I am wanting to trade out my old style center hole base pads with the long lip for the compact ones with the much shorter and easier to handle lip. SSS has been out of stock for a while. Is there another source? Thanks

Right at 10k on a 9mm FS. Works fine. But the answer to your question is yes. You need a back up production gun. Everything breaks eventually.

Just finished a Manny Bragg class. 1150 rounds 147 lead with no cleaning or additional lube without a bobble.

About 10K through a FS M/P. Missouri Bullet 125's and 147's. One 125's threw a shotgun pattern out of mine. 147's were fine. It takes about 10-20 seconds to clean my barrel. I don't know if that stuff is lead or lub or both. I have gone well over 500 rounds without cleaning with no problems. Cleaning get you a 9mm copper brush and wrap strands of copper choir boy or that soft silver stuff they sell at gun shows and shops. Rapid up and down and done.

I think the 4 inch 40 is a little snappy with factory ammo. And for me the 5 inch is way easier to shoot well. I have the 5 inch 40 and 9 and a 4.25 inch 9.

So I am reading conflicting information concerning lead or am not understanding what I am reading. I have shot thousands of rounds of 9, 40 and 45 using Missouri Bullet cast bullets. No problems. I have begun playing with a stock Glock 20 10mm and would like to use the 180 gr. Missouri Bullets I use in my forty. On the MB web page they use a formula to determine what a good Brinell hardness to use based on pressure (CUP) generated by the round. 10mm being around 31000 to 35000 pressure would seem to need a much harder bullet than the 18 Brinell ones I would like to use. Then there is the Glock barrel vs lead bullet deal. The Buffalo Bore website says, if memory serves, that the leading problem occurred in Glock barrels using pure lead with a Brinell hardness of about 4 and that hardened cast bullets are not a problem. I am using Longshot at 9 grains, oal of 1.26, and a Hornaday 180 gr. jacketed HP traveling at 1200 fps. I sure would like to use the MB lead bullet with that same load. Anyone have any actual experience shooting lead at 10mm velocities especially using a stock 20 barrel?

I have over 5000 of each through my FS M&P. Terrible groups from the 125's. But then I am slow witted. Otherwise why would it take 5K for me to figure out it wasn't my grip, sight picture, sight adjustment, weather, moon phase, etc. Finally while practicing for a classifier that had a target at 35 or 40 yards I went from 2 out of 6 on paper with 125"s to 5 A's and one C with 147's. Slow aimed freestyle. Made a believer out of me.

I have about 10K through my bought used FS. Just recently I began having those stage ending sticks. About 1 or 2 per 100 rounds. Upon examination I noted a ring down around where the die stops resizing. I use range brass. What I think is happening is I am picking up brass from a dude at our club that shoots 9mm at Super speeds. He thinks Max loading is just a suggested starting point. The over pressured round thins and stretches the brass and when it is resized it has a ring of varying size. Soooo I got an EGW 7 round gauge. Works slick. If they are really bad I can feel them during the resize stage.

Mine is terrible with anything but 147's. And it wants them at a certain speed. 125's were awful.

The only way I could get decent groups was with 147's. I shoot MB lead cone 147. It was very interesting working up the load. I made several .1/10th of a grain different loads from low to high velocity. I loaded 20 each of VV320 and shot 5 over a chrony and 15 at a 2 inch circle at 10 yards slow freestyle. Very interesting. Groups at low velocity started out poor and with each increase in powder visibly shrank with every 1/10 grain increase in powder up to a point. Then the group began to open up with every increase in powder. I don't shoot for group size but I went from about 2 out of 6 on an USPSA target at 40 yards to all A's at 40 yards. Again slow fire freestyle with called misses. FS M&P with stock barrel 147's VV320. The 2 on paper was with 125's by the way.