horseman

Been shooting coated 180's but got a good deal on a case of 155 MG HP's. I was using 4.6 of VV320 to push the 180's to Major. I am at 5.8 of VV320 behind the 155's at 1.140 oal and still low at 164.9PF. Seems like a lot of powder. I am not seeing any signs of high pressure but they are snappier than I would wish. I am thinking forget Major with these bullets and download to 4.7 or 5.0 and use for steel and 3G. Thoughts?

ISMI works for everyone but me. Mine would only worth with factory weight or stronger. Went to a wolf and think it is a 12lb. In a 5 inch Pro.

So I left my pride on stages 2,4, 5,and 7. And my Browning triangle camp chair on stage 5. I have given up on my pride as lost for good but would kinda like my chair back.

If you can read that head shots at 400 yards with a dot will be no problem

So has there been a change in USPSA rules? I thought it would be technically illegal to shoot 9mm out of a 40 frame. Or is that just Production?

Thanks all. I clean mags with Hoppe's #9. A 1911 taught me to clean mags and change mag springs.

Changed both springs when it started. No diff. One has an old follower and one a new one I modified. Cleaning does not seem to affect. I just bought a new mag and think I will change one of the tubes out and see if that fixes the problem. The jam happens in the middle of the cartridge stack so don't think it would be the follower. They seem smooth.

I have shot the same two 9mm M/P magazines with TF extensions for years. Have changed springs from time to time but not needed very often. Probably have 15 to 20 plus thousand rounds through these magazines. Several months ago I started getting a weird hang up in the mags where then bullet part of the cartridge gets a little on top of the bullet in on top of it. This freezes all the cartridges below the pair. There is usually a few loose rounds on top of the jam. The cure is to force the lower of the pair down with a rod. This happens with 125, 128 grain MBC, GLC and two alpha coated and lead bullets. I used these for years with no trouble. The jam occurs about dead center of the mag and I can not detect a bulge with my calipers on the outside of the mag body. The jam is intermittent and does seem to be helped by tapping the loaded magazine to settle the rounds but I didn't used to have to do this. So I use this in 3 gun and uspsa so these magazines have been dropped about a million times. So just pitch these mag bodies over the berm or is there something else to do? I load to about 1.140-1.125 OAL.

Pretty sure me and military crimped 9mm caused it. I have started throwing that crap away but sometimes one slips in. I often end up with it half seated before I figure it out then I am screwed. Can't seat the primer and can't get the case out cause half the primer is sticking out. End up forcing the primer in which I am sure caused the problem. The joys of having a range 10 miles from a military base I suppose. Although I must say I have really enjoyed shooting with young Soldiers and Marines. Super guys and my honor to be able to assist those in some small way who are new to the sport.

Pulled the shell plate and the underside of the offending hole was bent to heck. I will order a new shell plate Monday.

Thanks, I noted a bit ago that it seemed to only be flipping primers every 4th pull. So I marked the shell plate hole that was the offender. Sure enough it hung up every time and the other 3 holes seemed to work fine. The tip shows a little wear but seems to be working.

So my SDB started flipping and turning primers sideways. When observed without brass in place it appears the primer cup is often not advancing quite far enough and the trailing edge is catching then releasing and launching primer. I have turned both A and B adjusting screws both ways without affecting the problem. Suggestions?

Am I not seeing the striker housing melted into a blob?

Jesse, I am slightly foggier than usually this morning. It will not let me register without a PIN number. Where do I get that? Thanks

When I was experimenting with how light I could go with recoil springs the tell was when it got dirty, about 100 rounds, it would intermittently start not going back into battery. Since I got one that works I haven't had a problem in over 10,000 rounds, same spring.

I am not recommending for anyone but after experiencing what you did my internet research produced a method which takes about 30 seconds on average maybe 90 if it is gosh awful. May ruin your bore, cause acne or other bad things but it has worked for me. I started out cutting the threads off of a real copper chore boy scrub thingy. Wrapped the threads around a worn out brass cleaning brush until a TIGHT fit in the bore and on a DRY bore run it through the bore rapidly several times. Worked well. After a couple of years I picked up some of that soft steel scrub brush stuff they sell at gun stores and gun shows. It works even better. Hold the barrel over a trash can or something as you run the brush through cause stuffs gonna come out. As an aside I would not think you could push 147's fast enough to cause problems. How fast was it?

First, get a new gunsmith. The fix for this is peening the edges of the sight which will force metal out the side making the sight base wider. I had this very thing happen although mine sounded looser. Didn't know if my slide slot was out of whack or the sight was. Few whacks with a punch, some red locktite and it has been good for over 15K rounds.

5 inch .40 pro with 15k of 9mm down a 5 inch 9mm factory barrel. Of course I shoot more than I post so take that into consideration.

I think it is 14lb Wolf in my 5 inch. As I recalled I got a reduced spring 3 pack with the heaviest being 15lbs. I used the middle one, liked it and left it in. I could never get any ISMI springs of less than 16 pounds to run more than a 100 rounds without going in to battery problems. Subjectively, I could feel the difference from the 16lb stock spring. When I shot 1911's a lot I was a big spring changer. Kind of like an oil change. Was last running a 11 pound which has about 15,000 rounds on it. The above 5 inch M/P has maybe 5,000 on that spring. I now no longer change unless I have a problem which I haven't had once with a recoil spring. Magazine springs, are a different animal. 2 malfunctions with a nose in the feed ramp jam and that magazine gets a new spring. I don't recommend any of this but it is what I do. Good luck!

I think you are going the wrong way. Lighter springs seem to reduce muzzle flip for me and bring the slide back into my hand. Makes for flatter shooting. As the M/P sometimes does not like reduced power springs and will not take the slide back into battery on occasion. I use the lightest spring that will bring it back into battery every time. Also Wolf reduced springs work much better for me in the M/P. They have a nice 3 pack of reduced springs for not much money. I don't know why. Your question was about M/P functioning. You may or may not get more responses in the Spring section. I think you are fine posting your question here.

Call Dawson and get the adjustable rear and whatever tall front sight they recommend. You will not be sorry. Close enough does not do it for me. I want the sights dead nuts on. I can miss on my own.

Mine has not caused trouble. It just hangs down to a point and stops. And Thor's hammer isn't bring that b....h out. Broke three punches and used them until there was no punch left(shorter and shorter as they broke off). So I have a roll pin in my gun box and a hanging down solid pin in the gun. I hate defeat but I admit defeat.

Had both front and rear dawson's that fit loose. Red wrong kind of Loctite worked fine on both.

EFK makes a Smith barrel?

Good idea. Broke one of them off 3x's until nothing left. I am officially defeated.