EkuJustice

There is a plug made for a bushing barrel, that uses the 5 inch springs

I would vote leave it as 10. The reloads are not that big of a deal. You move you reload. Make it 15 round mags and your gonna make it more to think about for the new shooter. 8 round arrays, 15+1 in the gun. For 2 arrays, you are going to slide lock with no makeup shots. Have a miss or makeup and your doing a standing reload. With the same 8 round arrays, in production, you basically have 2 makeup shots if you need them without a slidelock. With the move and reload, they have a couple extras before they go to slidelock

Wouldn't loading 5 be more of a hinderence than a help? If the gun is down to 1 shot 2 hands of 4 have it topped off. With 5 you either go with 5 rounds or have to do a 3 round grab to top it off

I use stock followers I will have to double check but I believe it is a 5 0r 6 not sure which. If I use the newest follower I believe an 8 I loose a round. On the mag, you do need to do a little sanding on the inside of the mag where the pad attaches. Like was just said, that is what usually causes only 18 rounds. If you look on the inside you can see where it kinda narrows out in the corners especially. I used my trusty dremel as well as sand paper and removed that plastic and smoothed it out.

Usually the only ones coming from the factory have a flash hider pinned on and usually have a front sight. What you could do is buy the barrel comp gas block etc unpinned and let adco build the opper for you they way you want it. They can also cut down barrels, thread them etc if you cant find a 14.5 inch. Or just got the fun route and SBR the gun

Alumahyde

Mac 10 open gun?

What alot will do for the eye dominence is the Browning magic dot on the lens of the dominent eye. It is almost like a piece of tape that distorts the vision in that eye just enough that it causes you to focus with the other eye. In the Clay target sports, that is the most common and cost efficient. It just looks like a small circle on the lense

I would look at the 1100. With the ease of changing barrels, you can go from a 28-30 inch sporting clays gun, to a 21 inch 3gun shotgun with a simple barrel and tube extention swap. I would avoid the heavy loads. A good 1oz at around 1200fps load will work very well for sporting clays. For 3gun, I would get the lightest load that will knock the poppers down and choke accordingly. The poppers can down with the 1oz load if you choke properly. This will probibally require opening the port a little on the shorter 3gun barrel. A good recoil pad is a must. The best I have found is the Gooey pad from trapdude.com. It works extremely well, but wears a little more than the harder pads. For recoil reduction, weight is your friend. So the heavier the gun is, the less the recoil. If you still want a lively gun, that back ie stock needs to have the weight and not the front.

Good cases but like was alaredy said they are HEAVY. With hard use they do scuff up on the metal especially pretty bad. I did manage to have one broken on the corner due to an airline gorilla. I used them for skeet shooting as they would make them to fit the gun, sub ga tubes and all and would custom make you anything you wanted which I needed to put in the case. If I didnt need the custom interior to hold all the stuff I would go with a pelican case which for a pistol is the way to go. Less money and will hold up better.

Run the Dawsons and get 20+1 reloadable in all mine. My Taylors are 19 reloadable for all of them. Some are a tight 20 or 19 max

If your wanting a mag well etc you gonna want longer mags. If cost is a factor, I would look at a used 22 over the glock 37. Brass is going to be much cheaper and easier to find, bullets cheaper.Mags are harder to buy as alot of shops dont even stock them. If you ever decide to get rid of it a 22 will hold value and is able to move. A 37 good luck. Most shops wont even take them and if they do will pay nothing for it as no one wants them(hense why buds is dumping them cheap). If you alaredy had the gun I would shoot what ya got, but when your buying one, there are much better choices out there. Also nice to know if you run short on ammo, its easily found at the local walmart etc.

There is no minimum length. With you setup I would keep iron sights on the shotgun. If it has an optic, your shooting open which is going to be mag fed shotguns, tubes to load the gun etc. For shotgun most will go for 8+1 for tactical but there is no minimum length barrel For your pistol I would probibally go the 9mm over the 45 and have at least 1 mag with a +6 base pad on it. With alot of 3 gun going to the 2 on paper or 1A to nutralize minor powerfactor makes more sense

Thats why I have a Bladetech, much harder to loose your gun. For 3 gun,If I see alot of movement, akward shooting positions before the pistol comes out, I have a Blackhawk serpa I can use or just put the gun in the box if avaliable.

Trooper Class?

If you have a barrel that needs to be lighter, send it to ADCO. They can reprofile the barrel down and take a ton of weight off of it.

For the glock, one or 2 mags with a 140mm dawson extention would be nice to have. It would allow 23+1 for the start in 9mm. If you shoot production mostly I would do one mag with the extention and use it as my start mag for 3 gun then use the 17 rounders for the reloas

Pretty much everything on the gun is going to need fitting. I would have someone work with you to insure it is all done right and safely. A video only shows so much. You might be better off paying someone to fit the trigger parts and do a good trigger job on it. Once you start trying to set up triggers the way most shooters like them for competition, its very easy to get into unsafe territory if you have never done one before. Its also easy to ruin some parts along the way learning to do it. If you want to learn I would suggest learning with less expensive parts so when you mess up, your not out 80 bucks for the hammer alone

You can dremel the cuts in or send it to adco and they can do it if your not comfortable with your dremel skills

For HD I would go a pump over an auto especially if your leaving it loaded. The spring tension in an auto is much more critical than in a pump gun. For that purpose I definatly like Clint Smiths statement of " I dont need a thousand dollar shotgun, I need to learn to run the one I got". On the budget function over tactical. If you upgrade later, you will have a good HD gun and a competion gun to go with it

For HD I would go a pump over an auto especially if your leaving it loaded. The spring tension in an auto is much more critical than in a pump gun. For that purpose I definatly like Clint Smiths statement of " I dont need a thousand dollar shotgun, I need to learn to run the one I got". On the budget function over tactical.

The conversion barrel would not be legal for IDPA or production.

What were you wanting to do with the gun primarily. Dedicated competion gun, HD with some occasional matches thrown in? For a tight bidget I would get the barrel cut down and keep the wooden stock to save money

Right there, I believe if you are a member on shotgunworld.com you get dealer price which is 35 to thread it and free cut and relocate bead on the vent rib. Very good work and quick. I have had one done by him and they rave about him on the shotgunworld.com forum. MikeOrlen.pdf