Five of Clubs

I use a Kick Killer slip on recoil pad on my O/U that would likely work. The surface is smooth leather and has pretty much no grip. Unlike some of the other slip on pads, it doesn't add much to the LOP either.

PM Charlie, he'll probably just tell you in private.

I have tried both and prefer the red. It seems brighter and easier to pick up. Although, you will never know which is better for you until you try both. If you haven't installed either, I would start with the green. Change to the red after a few weeks and you will likely have a strong opinion as to which you like better.

That sounds like good advice actually. By the way Benny, your avatar creeps me out.

I'm sure you're correct. I saw it was a black synthetic version, but I didn't pay much attention as my kid was running 100mph through the store. It may not have even been 12 gauge. I didn't know there was a less expensive version out there. I almost think I could learn to live with the recoil for $300 difference.

I was at Dick's Sporting Goods in Louisville tonight and saw a 26" Benelli M2 on sale for $899. That is significantly cheaper than anywhere else I have seen them, but I don't know how many stores they have across the nation. Anyway, I just thought I would pass that along.

As suggested above, I started with Unique powder since it is everywhere and easy to use. I still have never tried anything else after about 20K rounds of 9, .40, .45 and .38. I'm sure other powders may be better for certain aspects of shooting, but I'm happy enough to stick with Unique for now (especially if shooting lead). I strongly prefer CCI primers over others since I sometimes hand-seat primers and they are the easiest for me to fully seat. On the other hand, I think they need to be struck harder than some of the others (Federal) to go off. Some triggers jobs on Glocks might not touch them off reliably. Just something to think about.

I have fired about 100 shells through two different 1100s and really wanted to like them. The recoil is mild, they can be had cheap and parts are everywhere. I just couldn't smash my face down far enough on the stock to sight down the rib. The sight picture I had was the barrel pointed upwards. I suppose I could look for a stock with more drop, but I guess I just got turned off. I wouldn't want an SPX or SLP for clays, but the SLP platform used on the SX2/3 sounds more reliable than the 930. What about the Benelli M2 and Browning Gold/Silver? My guess is that since the Browning can take the same light piston as the SX3 and SLP, it should run. How does the Benelli run on light loads? My friends wouldn't run a magazine full last time out, but it may not have been an M2. Thanks again guys.

The local Bass Pro has a 930 field-type model for $449. That's why I threw that in there, so I can leave the Colt in the safe for now. If they work, I wouldn't be opposed to saving money and being happy! Regarding the FN, do you have a light-load piston installed? From what I read on this forum that gun is basically an SX2 and some of the FNs come with 2 pistons. I don't mind a break-in period if I can eventually get the thing to be reliable with the cheap shells. Thanks again guys, this site is extremely informative.

I have been shooting clays with some good friends using an old Remington 1148 (made in 1957) for the past few years. The old gun runs like a top, but it's been in the family for a while and shooting 2k shells per year through it will eventually wear out parts that will be hard to replace. On top of that, I'm just ready for a new shotgun. My local club runs shotgun side matches after USPSA shoots sometimes that look pretty fun. Therefore, I'd like a new auto that is 3-gun capable. Here is the rub, the auto must run at least 99% on Walmart-type bulk cheap shells. My buddies and I all shoot each others guns and ammo, and sometimes one of the guys will find a deal on shells and buy a ton of them. We subsequently end up all shooting the same stuff. It wouldn't be the end of the world to use slightly more expensive ammo, but it would definitely be inconveniant. Anyway, I have an older Colt AR that I can probably get $1,000 for at the next gun show, so that plus a few bucks is my budget. I've searched and read this forum as much as I could and it looks like a Winchester SX3 has a light piston option that might work. I tried one on at a local shop and if fit well. A Remington 1100 would probably be my first choice, but they don't fit well and I've never been able to hit with them. So I guess my questions are: Will a Benelli M2 run on light loads? One of the guys I shoot with has some version of a Benelli that is very inconsistent with the shells we use. Is a Browning Silver close enough to the SX2/3 that it can be used? These are the guns I've found around the $1K mark. Is the Mossberg 930 proven enough one way or the other? Any others I'm missing? Thanks much.

I'm trying to remember exactly what Charlie said. I think it was something like on older Glocks like mine (1996 2nd Gen) the slide actually rides a little higher off the frame than the lastest Glocks do. The trigger he supplied me had the option of a second lower hole for the trigger spring than can fix engagement problems if they occur in older Glocks. He was talking pretty far over my head for a lot of the conversation, like when he mentioned the sear. (I was envisioning the sear in my 1911 versus the trigger bar and just got confused.) Anyway, I just stayed quiet until he was done and then said, "Yes sir". A few days later I sent him an email that said his suggestion worked. I did not measure the trigger pull weight, but you are correct that it did slightly increase after I moved the spring. Regarding the full-auto aspect, my buddies all want me to change the spring location back and let them shoot the gun. I doubt I would have much of a defense if I did that knowingly! I'll pass.

Do you have a 1st or 2nd generation Glock? I had the exact same situation occur when I installed a Vanek Classic on my 2nd gen G22. I installed the trigger in December but didn't shoot it until March or so. When I took it to the range, I kept thinking, "Did that just double?" A few rounds later there was no doubt as my G22 emptied the magazine (about 5 rounds) with a single trigger pull. That was weird. When I got home I sent Charlie an email. Within minutes he replied with a phone number. When we spoke, he immediately knew what the problem was and told me to move the trigger spring to the lower hole. (In retrospect, it is possible he told me that I might need to do this months prior when I bought the trigger). He said that moving it would give the sear more engagement and solve the problem. Charlie knows his stuff and of course he was right. 2,000 rounds later and it hasn't done it again. Anyway, that was a long story to tell you that you might be correct in thinking that you're fixed at this point.

I use one I got from Chris's site called a Maglock. It's all polymer and I like it very much, but I have not tried any others except the stock one. Here is a link: Chris's Glock Parts. Just another option to those already mentioned.

Here is a picture of my Gen 2 Glock 22 (made in 1996 I believe) for Limited. This should give you some idea of the most common modifications for Limited or L10. It has a new trigger, sights, magwell, mag extensions, Tru-grip, springs and guide rod. I saw one very similar on this website a couple years ago and just had to have one. It started as a cheapo local police trade-in and I bought the parts as I could afford them. Have fun with whatever you end up with.