ANeat

They are close to 2.25 inch compared to sub 2" for the standard handle

Hey guys; looking good and Im glad everyone likes the billiard balls.

Well I wanted one with a flat bottom, plus the aluminum I had was just scrap/free

I should add, dont let 3 phase scare you off. A small VFD (variable frequency drive) is very affordable and a very good way to generate 3 phase for smaller machines up to about 5hp. If you have 3 phase, thats great. If not, not a problem

Certainly get a floor model 9x40something if you can afford it. Ive seen and done good work with lesser machines but the aggravation isnt worth it. Dont overlook used, as more and more shops go for the smaller CNC machines standard knee mills are being sold off. I still see great deals popping up. Most of the bridgeport copies are very nice. I agree, get a DRO.

Kevin I have the table centered up in Y axis and the frame mounted on center (in Y axis) The radius of the front strap is at some odd position in the frame and depending on what you want, that is where the frame will need centered up, Or to put it another way, where the frame is mounted WILL be the centerline for the "new" radius you cut, so make sure its in the right spot..... Once I have that sorted I can move X left/right to remove whats needed to get the front strap to clean up. I think Ive done several guns and no 2 were the same. I really need to make a video of some of this, Ill have top start shopping for another 1911

You can buy a thread mill that will do that. Some have a replacable insert that cuts several rows of threads at a time. They are designed for machines that will do helical interopltion. Take say a 20tpi cutter and you can cut any size that the cutter will go into or also cut OD threads without purchasing a tap or die Something like this, that would work real well for all the horizontal cuts, the vertacals would need to be done one line at a time

First, sorry, I used to have an FFL 10 plus years ago and between my full time job and other "hobbies" the part time business never worked out. I eventually just never renewed the FFL when it expired. Honestly If I had the FFL I probably would not have show all the details of the process So no I cannot checker anyones frames, I do a few "slide" jobs from time to time. Installing sights or doing lightening cuts but no frames..... One thing I should add is by all means, before cutting on a frame get a piece of flat stock, something close to the frame thickness, I just used a scrap piece of aluminum... And practice doing some cuts... try different angles, try different style cutters, I did a lot of cool looking stuff with different ball nosed mills but when it came down to doing my guns I settled with good old fashioned checkering.

Thanks everyone, an1913t, a 60 degree cutter is the angle most use, I dont know if there is any one specific reason. If you have enough "thickness" in the front strap 60 degree is "sharper" although some feel it is too aggressive at 20 lpi. If youre doing finer spacing like 30 lpi or 40 lpi 60 degree would have more grip. I think at those fine spacings the 90 degree cutter would not have any advantage

I just count empty primer boxes and multiply by 100

I use a bigger ball/handle, strong mount Also milled out a bullet tray and junk tray/tool holder for the back Also have the bigger ball for the swager

Im a Bullseye shooter and have shot a few USPSA matches in the past. In the Dave Spaulding videos he mentions it, but each shooter need to figure out what works best for themselves. The worst thing would be to try and adopt someones technique when its not best for you. Figure out what works for you Shooting one handed in a USPSA match where you normally seem to transition from 2 handed to one handed, strong to weak hand or whatever.... never has been the same for me compared to shooting bullseye where you have the time to stand there and prepare yourself. Sometimes it feels better for me to have the gun vertical, at times I seem to get a bit of a cant. The main thing for me to be able to call the shot, breaking the trigger without disturbing the sights. Here is a good video of an Air Force shooter shooting Bullseye, Rapid fire, (Beretta 9mm) where you fire 5 shots in 10 seconds at 25 yards on a turning target. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=47202656964600610&pr=goog-sl#

Ive heard of folks using a sock as well. Personally I dont grip on the handle too much, I just push on it. Ive never had a problem with getting a blister. For me the extra diameter on the ball spreads out the load to a larger portion of the hand. Ive tried the roller handle and didnt really care for it (on a 550) but I understand everyone is different. When I tried the roller handle I found myself putting my hand on the bend and pushing down with my open hand (not gripping it) This is just another option

Sorry about the shoe thing, probably a lapse of concentration on my part. Here is an oldie but a goodie of said foot/shoe with a pile of future bullets